Little tweaks

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
So there were complications with the wheel change... I moved over to an xdr cassette with a 12 speed sram force cassette with the lowest sprocket being a 10t. However the chain would snag between the fork and cassette and jam tight. So my friend has a workshop. We got a 1mm piece of alluminium sheet and custom made a washer to fit on the hub driver side so that it would just push out the fork a little... and it worked.
 

cpml123

Zen MBB Master
So there were complications with the wheel change... I moved over to an xdr cassette with a 12 speed sram force cassette with the lowest sprocket being a 10t. However the chain would snag between the fork and cassette and jam tight. So my friend has a workshop. We got a 1mm piece of alluminium sheet and custom made a washer to fit on the hub driver side so that it would just push out the fork a little... and it worked.
That's good to know about fitting a 12 speed XD cassette. I was thinking of it as a future electronic upgrade with AXS GX 12 speed and the little thumb paddle. Maybe not. :)
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
Good idea on the washer David.. I bet she sings along at 40kph just fine now.

You guys probably know this already but just in case, I have Force AXS on my V20, but I use Campagnolo Bullets with a Shimano free hub, an 11-30t Ultegra 12-speed cassette with a Shimano R7000 52/34t cranks and a KMC chain and it works like a charm. When the wind and slope conditions are right I can spin it out at 70kph at 120rpm cadence. I can either get a few more kph by upgrading to a 53t chain ring or going whole hog with SRAM parts to get the 10t on the cassette.

Supply chain issues prevented a SRAM driver, cranks, chain and cassette when I bought the AXS groupset so I just went with Shimano since there are 5 bike shops within 10km to get a new crankset or even a 53t chain ring.
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
A problem with being so aero is you don't see the pot hole at 40kph. Fortunately the front tubeless gp5000 saved my bacon but the carbon rim is smashed. The wheel on the back is tubular with aluminium rim ... as intact as it ever was.

I'm so cheesed off right now... as I don't have a suitable replacement
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
That is kind of what scares me about the Xentis Mark 1 TT wheel David. It is gorgeous, but full carbon... Riding anyplace other than my usual ride would be scary since potholes show up in a hurry in unfamiliar places. I hope you can find a new wheel soon braddah!
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
My discussion with Mr AI.... impressive

i have had a problem with my front wheel on my bike... the carbon rim hit a pothole too hard and cracked the rim , i am probably going to use epoxy glue to repair the crack.



I'm sorry to hear about the issue with your bike's front wheel. While epoxy glue can be used as a temporary fix, it's important to keep in mind that it may not be a long-term solution.
Carbon fiber is a complex material that requires a specific repair process to maintain its structural integrity. If you're not experienced in repairing carbon fiber, it's best to take your bike to a professional bike shop or a carbon fiber repair specialist to have it inspected and repaired.
In some cases, the damage may be beyond repair, and a replacement wheel may be necessary. It's better to invest in a new wheel rather than risking a potential accident due to a faulty repair job.




emmm i am so irritated by it as i have only had the wheel for less than a year and it cost me 750 euros



I understand how frustrating that can be, especially when you've invested a significant amount of money in your equipment. However, it's important to keep in mind that accidents and damage can happen, especially when cycling on roads with potholes and other hazards.
If you haven't already, you may want to contact the manufacturer or the bike shop where you purchased the wheel to inquire about their warranty or repair policies. They may be able to offer you a solution or repair at a reduced cost or even replace the wheel if the damage is covered by the warranty.
Alternatively, you could also look into purchasing a used or discounted carbon fiber wheel to replace the damaged one, which may be a more cost-effective solution than purchasing a brand new wheel.
In any case, it's important to prioritize your safety when cycling and ensure that your equipment is in good working condition to prevent any accidents or injuries.



Good advice.... yes... i have already tried to contact the company but they havent responded yet.



It's good that you've already tried to contact the company. If they haven't responded yet, you may want to follow up with them to ensure that your inquiry is being addressed.
In the meantime, it's important to take extra precautions when cycling with a damaged wheel. Depending on the severity of the crack, the wheel may not be safe to use at all. If you're unsure, it's best to have a professional inspect the wheel and advise you on whether it's safe to continue using or if it needs to be replaced.
In the interest of safety, it's always better to err on the side of caution and take the necessary steps to address any issues with your equipment.



If i were to use a 30mm bicycle tyre would you have any idea of the psi i would need to pump it up? i weigh 85 kg



The recommended tire pressure for a 30mm bicycle tire can vary depending on a few factors, including the rider's weight, the type of riding, and the terrain.
As a general rule, a good starting point for tire pressure on a 30mm tire would be around 70-80 PSI (pounds per square inch) for a rider weighing 85kg. However, it's important to check the sidewall of the tire itself for the recommended pressure range as it may vary from tire to tire.
If you're planning on riding on rough or uneven terrain, you may want to consider lowering the tire pressure slightly to improve traction and absorb shock. On the other hand, if you're riding on smooth roads or racing, you may want to increase the tire pressure for reduced rolling resistance.
Ultimately, the best tire pressure for you will depend on your personal preferences and riding conditions. Experiment with different pressures to find what works best for you and your riding style.



emmm i probably damaged the rim because my 25mm tyre was 70 psi and i had them lower because of the rough roads around here



Lowering the tire pressure is a good way to improve traction and absorb shock when riding on rough roads. However, it's important to make sure that the tire pressure is not too low, as this can increase the risk of damaging the rim, especially with a carbon fiber rim.
If the tire pressure is too low, the tire can bottom out on hard impacts like hitting a pothole or curb, causing damage to the rim. On the other hand, if the tire pressure is too high, the tire can become less effective at absorbing shock, which can also cause damage to the rim.
As a general rule, it's recommended to keep the tire pressure within the range specified by the tire manufacturer. The recommended pressure range should be printed on the sidewall of the tire. For a 25mm tire, the recommended pressure range is typically around 85-100 PSI for a rider weighing 85kg.
However, if you're riding on rough roads, you may want to lower the tire pressure slightly to improve traction and absorb shock, but not to the point where it's too low and increases the risk of damaging the rim. It's a balance between comfort and safety.



my idea for the future is a 30mm rubber tyre would be a safer and cheaper option



Switching to a wider 30mm rubber tire can have several advantages, especially if you're regularly riding on rough or uneven terrain.
Firstly, wider tires provide better traction and stability on rough roads, which can help to reduce the risk of accidents and improve your overall riding experience. The wider contact patch of the tire also means that it can absorb more shock, making for a more comfortable ride.
Additionally, wider tires can also be more durable and less susceptible to damage than narrower tires. This can be especially true if you're regularly riding on rough or gravel roads, as wider tires can better handle the increased wear and tear.
Switching to a wider tire can also be a more cost-effective option in the long run, as wider tires tend to last longer and require less frequent replacement than narrower tires.
However, it's important to keep in mind that wider tires can also be heavier, which can make it more difficult to accelerate and climb hills. The wider tire may also require a wider rim, so make sure your bike can accommodate the wider tire and rim.
Overall, switching to a wider tire can be a good option if you're looking to improve your comfort and safety while cycling on rough roads. It's important to choose a tire that's appropriate for your riding conditions and to maintain the proper tire pressure to ensure your safety and the longevity of your equipment
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I have just completed an update. Just like @Frito Bandito , I am running force axs drivechain. But unlike frito I was using a shimano ultegra 11 speed rear deuralleur with the xshifter and it was OK with 12 gears but the pully system was too shallow so anytime you wanted power the chain would slip. Not too good but last weekend I played around with the bits and pieces in the box.

Resize_20230805_153418_8017.jpg

And would you believe it but the twit tawoo (LTWOO) 12 spd deuralleur works out better than the shimano! However the twit tawoo pulley screws are more compatible with sram look alike pulleys.

The pulleys have been replaced in the photo.

This morning I pushed it until my heart rate went above 160bpm and then I took it easier. I passed everyone but 2. Those 2 were superhuman so I don't think they count LOL

No slippage whatsoever and I feel 100% confident even hitting over 60kph going down the hills.
Resize_20230805_153417_7469.jpg
 
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Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
I had to tighten mine up a few times initially, but after a while it seemed to hold. Finally, the glue gave out on the plastic I used for the valve cover and I removed the Monokote for the 80mm wheel.
Bike looks fast with it on though.
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I guess it needs to be tight like a drum. Perhaps I need to buy a flame thrower as the hair dryer is on for ages.

I remember Jason created his own disc wheel with the use of carbon panels but I've never seen them over here in Spain.

Perhaps I could use @ratz plastic coat spray and make that monokote more sturdy?
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I tried her tonight and dusk... people were saying "what's that?"

It cuts thru the air like a hot knife thru butter. Well a bit better actually.

I thought the rear wheel would amplify road noise but as its an aluminium tubular rim (thin rim, 25mm wide and 32 spoke) its as quiet as a mouse.

I am really chuffed. I've been at this project for quite some time.

I bought first the tyre of choice for my wheel build. It was a hand made tubular 25mm tyre continental and it doesn't lose pressure at all.

Then I bought a real light aluminium 32 tubular rim then the 350 dt suisse hub.

Rear wheel doesn't have to be really narrow. Then the local bike shop put the hub to the rim and aligned it really well.
I glued the tyre onto the rim.

I found some incredibly strong double sided tape , and stuck the monokote film to the rim all around. I used a bit of engineering, after i had given it a blasting with the hairdryer i trimmed the edges with a sharp pair of nail scissorsCompress_20230829_190053_3980.jpg. Not sure how it will hold up. But we will see.

I used quite a large plastic donut so that the spokes wouldn't stretch the monokote too much so with the monokote stuck to the plastic and the rims it was just a case of getting rid of the crinkles.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
Great idea building your own wheel David. Don1 and I both felt that the Campagnolo Shamal Mille would be a great wheel to Monokote as well because it is a very light wheel and would have a lot of pros that your wheel has such as being light and comfortable to name 2. Getting it smooth is harder than it look eh? Luckily people won't get much of a look at the wrinkles unless you let 'em haha.
 
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