Looking for PDF copy of QX100 manual
- Thread starter Scott
- Start date
benphyr
Guru-me-not
I have a QX100 for several years now. I don't have a manual but feel free to ask any questions, guaranteed someone here will have had the same question and we can point you in the right direction. Pictures are really helpful if you have any specific questions.
Possibly Cruzbike has the QX100 manuals in a vault somewhere @Lucia, @Robert Holler.
Possibly Cruzbike has the QX100 manuals in a vault somewhere @Lucia, @Robert Holler.
Scott
Member
In looking over my bike, MOst things are in great condition.
I noticed one difference between my bike and the on shown in the assembly video. I am missing the pads between seat and square plates mounted to frame. See picture.
Are these necessary? It looks like they help support seat and with out would the seat overflex and crack? Could sharp edges of square plates cause the seat to crack?
Several other questions:
-is there any maintenance involved with shock?
-how should I adjust this for my weight (230 lbs)?
-any maintenance required for pivot point on rear arm that holds rear tire?
-any maintenance required for head bearing assembly?
I live in PA and waiting for cold to break and for roads to clear off so that I can get some riding in. Going to spend time on rollers for now.
Thanks for your help!
I noticed one difference between my bike and the on shown in the assembly video. I am missing the pads between seat and square plates mounted to frame. See picture.
Are these necessary? It looks like they help support seat and with out would the seat overflex and crack? Could sharp edges of square plates cause the seat to crack?
Several other questions:
-is there any maintenance involved with shock?
-how should I adjust this for my weight (230 lbs)?
-any maintenance required for pivot point on rear arm that holds rear tire?
-any maintenance required for head bearing assembly?
I live in PA and waiting for cold to break and for roads to clear off so that I can get some riding in. Going to spend time on rollers for now.
Thanks for your help!
super slim
Zen MBB Master
If the rear shock is the standard spring only unit with a rubber sleeve over the spring, and has a 125mm (5") distance between the shocker frame bolts, with no rider on the bike.
Sit on the bike, with a few bounces to settle the ride height, and get a friend to check the new distance between the shocker frame bolts.
It should be 80% (20% sag) or 100mm (4")!
If it is less than 20% sag, then rotate the spring load slotted nut, using multi shift pliers to grip the nut, in an anticlockwise direction to reduce the spring preload.
Keep adjusting until 20% is reached, then take the bike for a ride, to see if you are happy with the ride, and adjust to your satisfaction, and condition of roads!
If the bike is old, the short nylon sleeve that guides the spring shaft into the body could be worn, increasing the stickson friction!
To check, remove the shocker from the bike, fully undo the spring preload nut so the spring and rubber sleeve can be removed, clamp the top in a vise and fully extend(15mm) the unit, then try to wobble the main body sideways.
If it wobbles, then replace the spring unit (350 gms) with an double chamber air shock (Kind A5 RR1) (200 gms) for $75. Try 125 psi main chamber, 125 psi for N Chamber!
Everyone who has done this, has commented how much the ride has improved!!!
I changed to a Air shock on my Softrider(165mm fully extended), and a MASSIVE ride improvement!
https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/kind-air-shock-a5-rr1-on-qx100-suggested-pressures.12504/
There is no maintenance required for the rear suspension pivot other than checking that the bolts are tight!!
The steerer tube should be pulled apart, and carefully placed on a clean sheet in the order and ORIENTATION removed, cleaned individually, regreased and reinstalled!
On my Quest V1, the Diatech clamp for adjusting the steerer tube bearing preload was hard to adjust, so I replaced it with a star washer and all thread and a standard steerer cap.
See the link below for how to adjust the diatech!
Sit on the bike, with a few bounces to settle the ride height, and get a friend to check the new distance between the shocker frame bolts.
It should be 80% (20% sag) or 100mm (4")!
If it is less than 20% sag, then rotate the spring load slotted nut, using multi shift pliers to grip the nut, in an anticlockwise direction to reduce the spring preload.
Keep adjusting until 20% is reached, then take the bike for a ride, to see if you are happy with the ride, and adjust to your satisfaction, and condition of roads!
If the bike is old, the short nylon sleeve that guides the spring shaft into the body could be worn, increasing the stickson friction!
To check, remove the shocker from the bike, fully undo the spring preload nut so the spring and rubber sleeve can be removed, clamp the top in a vise and fully extend(15mm) the unit, then try to wobble the main body sideways.
If it wobbles, then replace the spring unit (350 gms) with an double chamber air shock (Kind A5 RR1) (200 gms) for $75. Try 125 psi main chamber, 125 psi for N Chamber!
Everyone who has done this, has commented how much the ride has improved!!!
I changed to a Air shock on my Softrider(165mm fully extended), and a MASSIVE ride improvement!
https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/kind-air-shock-a5-rr1-on-qx100-suggested-pressures.12504/
There is no maintenance required for the rear suspension pivot other than checking that the bolts are tight!!
The steerer tube should be pulled apart, and carefully placed on a clean sheet in the order and ORIENTATION removed, cleaned individually, regreased and reinstalled!
On my Quest V1, the Diatech clamp for adjusting the steerer tube bearing preload was hard to adjust, so I replaced it with a star washer and all thread and a standard steerer cap.
See the link below for how to adjust the diatech!
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