Minneapolis Silvio

hoyden

hoyden

Well-Known Member
ratz said:
Scroll down to the section on Chain Length. If you do it that way it always works.
Click to expand...
Good deal! I saw yesterday I have a master link. Is the link reusable? The instructions were ambiguous:
"The narrowest chains, used with cassettes that have 10 sprockets -- sometimes 9 -- must be joined using special one-time-use replacement pins or master links."
 
hoyden

hoyden

Well-Known Member
Here is a chain picture showing extra links with chain on both large sprockets. The master link looks like the one with the elongated hole. I have not seen one like this so don't know if I can use my chain tool to push out a pin.
image1.jpeg
 
SamP

SamP

Guru
That appears to be an FSA Team Issue 10 Speed Chain (Model CN-910N) with an FSA Drive Link Connector 10-Speed (Model CN-LINK-10). According to the web page, the CN-LINK-10 is a "Single use connecting link". It appears you ought to keep one in your on-bike tool-kit in case you need to remove a link on your chain out on the road.

KMC makes a reusable master link for 10-speed Shimano, SRAM, and Campy chains (KMC Missing Link, campy version). I believe Shimano and SRAM's 10-speed master links are single use.
 
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hoyden

hoyden

Well-Known Member
SamP, thank you for the link. I will see if I can find some local or I will order a few. For now I think I want to ride. When I am in the large chain ring I know to watch out for trouble. I also notice that when in the small ring and smallest sprocket the chain seems to run less smoothly.
 
Emeljay

Emeljay

WiskersBlowinInTheWind
I have always re-used the same master link on the same chain when removing for cleaning and lubing with no problems (so far doing this for 2 years, lubing about 1-2 times monthly, new chain about every 4 months). But I don't re-use the used master link when replacing the old chain with new one, then I use new master link. And yes, I do always carry a spare master just in case!
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Please confirm that chain is not passing through the rear derailleaur in that picture; IF it is going through the derailleur then it is way way too long. You need to disconnect that master link and un-thread the chain from the derailleur and mount it on big/big to do the sizing.

Those "one use" master links are usually good for about 20 times; our 11sp chains are "one use" and with waxing a rotating chains I use them many many many times but I do carry a spare on the bike for the day I'm wrong about that.
 
hoyden

hoyden

Well-Known Member
I dropped by my LBS http://www.tangletownbikeshop.com/ who are located less than 2 blocks from my house. They shortened my chain by a couple of links and I bought 2 extra links. On my ride I thought it was fixed, and it did ride better, but then the problem returned, so I need to check the chain again to see if I need to take out 2 more links.

When I did the big/big test I wired the derailer open so it wasn't quite as straight as not passing through it but very close to straight. I will return to the LBS once I determine if the chain needs shortening. I will also buy one of those tools to separate the master link.

I noticed when riding that the front shock looks like it is flat and when I get off the bike it pops up. I put 130 lb air in it yesterday. Should the shock stay fully extended when riding?
 
MrSteve

MrSteve

Zen MBB Master
Mr. Hoyden, you asked if you needed to use your chain breaker to push out the pin(s) in your master link.
NO
No, no you do not.
You use a special pair of narrow-nosed pliers to squeeze the master link pins together and,
when the master link pins click into the big holes in sides of the master link side plates, the two-piece
master link can be separated and will come off of your chain.

If we were living in the 8-speed world, your needle-nose pliers would probably work... because the old chains
are wide.
Our modern 10/11-speed chains are now too narrow for almost all of the World's pliers, so a special tool is probably
in your future.
 
hoyden

hoyden

Well-Known Member
MrSteve said:
You use a special pair of narrow-nosed pliers to squeeze the master link pins together
Click to expand...
I saw the bike shop mechanic do this yesterday and that was my thought; "a special tool is probably in my future." This exploration will have to be deferred til next week.

I suspect the chain is still too long. I also read about chain-suck and wondered if that is what I am experiencing, although the description noted the drive locks up and mine does not. Also, chain-suck was mostly described in terms of worn or mismatched chains and sprockets, and no mention of chain length.

Also, reading the front shock manual I get the impression it should be extended when riding. I read the max pressure is 185 and I am currently at 130, so plenty of room to add more.
 
mzweili

mzweili

Guru
MrSteve said:
a special tool is probably
in your future.
Click to expand...
There is a guy on BROL who built such a chain opener tool.
I used it on my 10 speed chain and it works OK.

Marc,
You can order through PayPal using kelley@bikemountain.info or you can send me cash or money order.

The squeeze link.

Please note that the tool is designed for use on a 9 speed chain. It will not collapse the link (squeeze it) unless you also squeeze the sides while inserting the tool. Because the master links have a machined grove to hold the sides in place, which means to open the link you have to press the sides together with your thumb and forefinger while pressing the tool into the link.

I have been slammed with orders and my inventory is exhausted. It will be a week before I will be able to ship.

Kelley Hinkle
PMB 171
1087 Lewis River Rd.
Woodland, WA 98674
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
mzweili said:
There is a guy on BROL who built such a chain opener tool.
I used it on my 10 speed chain and it works OK.
Click to expand...
I have one of those; doesn't work on 11speed chain. I asked Kelley but he's not really interested in making a 11sp version or a true 10 sp version. I should probably mail mine to @RojoRacing racing, probably take him 2 minutes to look at it and make an 11sp version.
 
hoyden

hoyden

Well-Known Member
I have heard folks talk about waxing. Do you have a favorite website explaining the process? In the past I shook a black squirt bottle with liquid Teflon juice and doused the chain a couple times per season.

Something tells me this is not how Cruzbikers do it. I am ready to learn a new way.
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Zzzorse said:
By the way, Ratz suggested Simple Green to clean the chain, which is easier than Molten Wax's method.
Click to expand...

Simple Green 1 part + 2 parts water ----> $50 ultra sonic jewelery cleaner.

I use molten because I'm lazy.

Latest "definitive" thread at this time: wax or squirt; pick one.
http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/ybn-chains.10959/#post-120690

IMO Wax is better if you can afford the expense of having at least two chains so that one is always ready to go.
 
JOSEPHWEISSERT

JOSEPHWEISSERT

Zen MBB Master
hoyden said:
I have heard folks talk about waxing. Do you have a favorite website explaining the process? In the past I shook a black squirt bottle with liquid Teflon juice and doused the chain a couple times per season.

Something tells me this is not how Cruzbikers do it. I am ready to learn a new way.
Click to expand...
I have two chains. One goes in the slow cooker with plain old paraffin wax from Amazon when I have used it a while. I take the hot chain out of the cooker after a while, let it cool, and store it until the other chain has been used for a while. Then swap and cook again. Simple and easy.
 
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