Must Start to finish

[Blake Murray]

OK...yet I prefer to spin over grind...yet when I begin to increase my spin rate keeping tension constant, I find that the steering becomes problematic.
Even to the point that I have to completely stop spinning or increase the tension to maintain control. Is this an issue due to the front wheel drive system of the
V20 (never had this issue on a DF and have never ridden any other bent) or is there some technique that I have not learned to handle a higher spin rate (say 90+) without loss of control?
Second question relates to hydration. I have not yet been able to take my hand off the bar to allow the removal of a bottle so I must stop to drink. This is fine
as I do most riding alone. Yet in a group or event ride that is not possible. So I am looking at going to a hydration pack that mounts in the triangle under the seat. Considering the FastBack 70LS Hydration Pack with the Camelbak bladder. Will this combination fit in the triangle and has anyone any experience using this system? This for the input above!!

 

[1happyreader]

Heh Blake,

handle a higher spin rate (say 90+) without loss of control?

MBB(movable bottom bracket) showed me just how right dominate my legs are. At higher cadences my left was late or following and then made a jarring contact . More one leg drills and left leg strength work in my future.

I have not yet been able to take my hand off the bar to allow the removal of a bottle so I must stop to drink. This is fine

How do you signal turns in traffic ????? Riding one handed is a BASIC skill. Please go back and practice/master this skill. Have you played with much palms only riding ??

camelbaks are great. If you want to try a low volume/cost solution the camelbak makes a hose adapter for the eddy bottles.
Just find a way to secure that hose and keep it out of your rear wheel. ID badge string reels and magnetic keepers can help.
keep your chin up and smile !
later,,,,,,,bye

 

[ratz]

OK...yet I prefer to spin over grind...yet when I begin to increase my spin rate keeping tension constant, I find that the steering becomes problematic.

Probably not what you want to here but that means you pedaling has bad habits yet to be over come. Time in the saddle will solve that, the MBB is just exposing your imbalance. As for drinking that best practiced in a big gear at a low cadence. Learn to drink at 60rpm and the rest will come.

If you want to accelerate fixing your wobble; then you want to do a simple drill in the parking lot.

1) Find a large empty lot; like a back lot at a big box store
2) Ride in a simple large large oval in an easy gear that makes you spin at 80-95rpm at a slow speed
3) For 30 seconds at a time; star down one of your knees
4) Switch legs, repeat

Watch for shoulder and jaw tension during the drill you'll be surprised how your shoulders will hunch up.

Legs are funny things if you don't pay attention to them they will go around the ring in whatever manner they are use to. If however you focus on the motion for 30 second intervals suddenly the leg will come to attention and go around is a smooth and even stroke. You are watching for left/right knee wobble and full rotation; the things you what to stare down are:

1) No knee wobble
2) At full extension of a legs think like you are trying to scrap mud off the bottom of the shoe during the pedal stroke.
3) At full Knee retraction think about kicking your toe to the sky


I do this drill on long boring section of recovery rides especially on the indoor trainer (thank you trainer road).... It make a shocking amount of difference if you give this 20-30 minutes of attention each week as the legs will quickly adapt and pickup the new habit at higher cadence. Once you have the drill down you can do it on the open road when there are no cars around just don't loose focus and go Larry on us and point the rubside at the sky.

 

[RAR]

Blake , today I realized my legs were not extending enough , causing the bike to be wobbly. No matter how hard I tried to be smooth with my peddling the bike never felt under control. I lengthened the boom 1" and was amazed at the difference. Maybe this would work for you.

Rick

 

[LarryOz]

I have not yet been able to take my hand off the bar to allow the removal of a bottle so I must stop to drink.

Blake - you will get used to it, it just takes time. Heck a year and a half ago I got my first Cruzbike and swore for at least 3 days I could never learn to ride it, now I can grab a drink pretty easily even while riding quite hard.
Below is a reverse angle video of me riding on a 1/3 mile loop doing about 26-27 mph with a short little stubby handlebar. I think it was Aug, 2015.
At about 25 seconds see me leg go with my right hand, pull the water bottle out (at 27 mph) drink it, look at it, shake it, drink it, and put it back, all without loosing any speed or without wobbling around. You'll get it.

FWIW: I find that trying to "sip" from those hydration packs whilst riding hard is more difficult than just grabbing the bottle and taking a couple swigs. I mistakenly tried a "sipper" tube inserted into my water bottle when doing my Century record attempt back in Oct 2015, and I just could not get enough liquid when I wanted it. Maybe it is just what you get used to.

 

[brokemyback]

I'm finding that my newfound MBB skills disappear when I start getting tired. Like learning a new language!

One handed or one leg cycling is easy for me after 7 short practice sessions. I tried some high cadence riding and I just feel myself doing the death grip on the bars, but no real wobbling problems.

 

[1happyreader]

I just could not get enough liquid when I wanted it.

different philosophy with a sip tube:
sip often and BEFORE you get thirsty,
if successful you don't get thirsty or dehydrated or a lead stomach from chugging when thirsty.

 

[TalleyHo]

I can relate to the newbie handling issues being posted because I struggled myself for quite a long while. I see the mastery of the CB ride to be a risk reward situation with the risk not having the patience to allow the body to get it and the reward an amazingly athletic cycling experience like probably no other. While I was out in the light traffic on rural roads within days of the parking lot learning, I wobbled and strained quite a bit especially when tired. Not wanting at all here to scare anyone off but it took me about 1500 miles before I realized one day that the struggle was over. But then im very non athletic. From that point on I got stronger and much more addicted to the amazing CB experience. The body/bike dance that happens to gracefully ride these is most noticeable when under full power at high speeds. The inputs required are subtle but precise. These bikes are very sensitive so incorrect inputs are more of a problem especially at high speeds, that's why for newbies if your head and heart say I've got it your body may not quite and so caution and lower speeds are prudent in the early going. But then prepare to love it.

 

[brokemyback]

One handed or one leg cycling is easy for me after 7 short practice sessions. I tried some high cadence riding and I just feel myself doing the death grip on the bars, but no real wobbling problems.

Correction - I did have a wobbling problem yesterday. During a high speed sprint I started a giant wobble that was scary. I wonder if I lifted off the power abruptly and my DF training kicked in making things worse.

 

[jond]

I started a giant wobble that was scary.

yes a pucker up moment is pretty scary. glad you did not go down. confidence........wrecked. but do not worry just dial it back and enjoy the learning. the rush to go fast is fraught with danger. do the slow stuff first and end with a bit faster not a lot faster

 

[justbob20]

going to try mountain bike pedal with wide base and flat side during learning process, can flip the pedal and clip in accordingly, just a thought? Shimano PD-A530 dual platform

 

[ratz]

going to try mountain bike pedal with wide base and flat side during learning process, can flip the pedal and clip in accordingly, just a thought? Shimano PD-A530 dual platform

Oldest daughter learned on those pedals for that reason and it worked really well.

 

[super slim]

I used to have the A600 one sided cleat, on the Silvio V1.0, M780 two sided cleat only on the Quest and the previously on the Silvio, and the M424 two sided cleat and wide shoe support on the Softrider, but the pain of the A600 pedal being too stiff so it would always be upside down when I went to put my cleat on it, so slow take offs from the lights.
I have bought an extra set of M424s for the Silvio, so easy starts, as if my aim is not perfect with the cleat, I still have a wide flat platform for the shoe to work on!!! The 180 gram penalty is worth it!!

 

[hurri47]

I used to have the A600 one sided cleat, on the Silvio V1.0, M780 two sided cleat only on the Quest and the previously on the Silvio, and the M424 two sided cleat and wide shoe support on the Softrider, but the pain of the A600 pedal being too stiff so it would always be upside down when I went to put my cleat on it, so slow take offs from the lights.
I have bought an extra set of M424s for the Silvio, so easy starts, as if my aim is not perfect with the cleat, I still have a wide flat platform for the shoe to work on!!! The 180 gram penalty is worth it!!

I use A520 on my Silvio 1.0 (for over a year now) - very similar to the A600 but 2/3 the price. Reviews for both pedals mention the "upside down" issue, but it has not been a problem for me for two reasons. (1) they loosen up after some use. (2) In recumbents, you have a good view of the pedal throughout the crank travel, so I have never have a moment's doubt over whether or not I need to flip it with my toe - I can see it without changing my focus from the road ahead. In my experience, it is almost always right-side up already, and even if it is upside down occasionally, one additional crank revolution corrects it.

If I had to look down to ground level it could be a problem, but for recumbents, nah.

-Dan

 

[Jeremy S]

My A600's flip themselves the right way 90% of the time.

 

[ratz]

The new shimano pd-mt50's might also be a good choice for beginners.

 

[super slim]

Jeremy, here Downunder, the gravity must be less, as the pedal was only right side up 20% to 40% of the time.
It can't be the cold weather, as in Adelaide,"It's Great one day, and Perfect the next!!!!!"
I persevered with them for 4,000 Km, hoping the the friction would reduce with usage, but no!

 

[bladderhead]

My heel-clip pedals always hang the right way up

 

[Blake Murray]

New adventure...or old problem with new application...flat tire! Yes I experienced my first flat on the Vendetta; front wheel at that. Good news is that there were two others to assist but it was more like an episode of the three stooges. My question is how does a solo artist change a flat on the front of the Vendetta? Having to hold up the front with one hand leaves only one hand to change the flat? Flip the bike over? Are there any videos? 911?

 

[jond]

New adventure...or old problem with new application...flat tire! Yes I experienced my first flat on the Vendetta; front wheel at that. Good news is that there were two others to assist but it was more like an episode of the three stooges. My question is how does a solo artist change a flat on the front of the Vendetta? Having to hold up the front with one hand leaves only one hand to change the flat? Flip the bike over? Are there any videos? 911?

always flip it over on a nicest surface i can find in the shade and try and point the front wheel up-hill for balance. trouble is the weight in the rear is sometimes still not enough to plant her securely and the rear can swing around.

tend to ride longer rides with full finger gloves makes flats cleaner.

really miss the type 2 sram rear mech with lockout. it was much easier pulling a front wheel out with the xo mech compared to the new shimano ultegra long cage i have now fitted to the new bike.

have found flats 50/50 split front rear. df 10/90 front rear.