my conversion tips, reverse stem, backpack and cruzbike BB plugs!

hamishbarker

Well-Known Member
My Conversion tips:

1. reversed stem to get handlebars away from my knees
2. bottom brack plugs to keep dirt out of old BB shell
3. basic backpack mounting to the seat

Reversed stem
I was struggling to get enough clearance for my knees - I was occasionally touching the bottoms of my gear shifters. I had even ordered a new handlebar (porteur style), as I thought that would provide more clearance. Then I had a brainwave and turned the headstem around 180 degrees to bring the handlebars closer to my chest and thus further from my knees! Actually it's the original very short stem which was fitted to the donor and I had moved to my mountain bike, but now is back on the donor.

If converters are having problems to get enough knee clearance, I'd definitely recommend trying this. Even though the handlebars are now closer, it's still quite comfortable riding, with my elbows now resting beside my ribs and forearms 45 degrees from the vertical.

Bottom Bracket Plugs
When I did the conversion, I was mystified by the presence of two big black plastic plugs in the parts supplied. There was no mention of their purpose in the instructions. It's been a bit wet this week, and yesterday I was looking at the dirt now building up in the old bottom bracket hole when I realised the purpose of the big plugs - to plug up the old BB shell! :)

Backpack
I saw the link to radical designs bags for recumbents. https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/products/recumbent-bags/rear-bags
But there are way too many old backpacks clogging our cupboards to justify another bag purchase! So I found some old straps and fastex buckles to make a simple couple of straps mounted on the compression straps of an old daypack. I also sewed some velcro to the top handle of the backpack and mounted a bit of self adhesive velcro to the top front of the seat. This makes a medium seatbag which can be clipped off in seconds to become a normal backpack. Single thicknesses of 25mm webbing run across the seat cushion, no change to comfort. It's not perfect - I have to cinch the bottom of the bag small so that it doesn't rest on the mudguard. I have a seatpost mounted rack on order, but this solution avoids extra hardware so will try it for a while. At least I can carry lunch, water and the office shirt for work easily now!

Here's a photo with the current setup:
first showing the backpack and stem
cruzbike-with-BB-plugs-and-reverse-stem.jpg height:536px; width:716px


fullview.jpg


old-bb.jpg


velcro-handle.jpg


velcro-handle-lightmount.jpg
 

Jeremy S

Dude
Reversed stem

I second the reversed stem. With my Sofrider in the "standard" configuration, my knees barely cleared the handlebars. My arms also got tired after long rides, and I would even get numb spots on my thumbs that would last a few hours after riding (weird but true). I reversed the stem which gave me much more knee clearance and also allowed me to lower the bars several inches to a more comfortable height, with my elbows down by my sides. No more issues with arm fatigue or numb thumbs.
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
Try mounting the backpack

Try mounting the backpack straps under the cushion and then place the cushion on top of the straps. Should be more comfortable for you. (That's what I do with my Camelbak Unbottle).
 

Jake

Member
Backpack

I've used a regular backpack too - the grab loop fitted over the seat top is the key, then I used the pack's belt strap in front of the seatpan to keep the bag under tension. Unfortunatly I don't have fenders so I ended up with a lot of mud and a few scorch marks on the backpack. But so much better to carry off of the bike than panniers :)

Speaking of fenders, have you though about mounting the longer rear fender on the front wheel as with your current setup the front wheel will throw up a lot of road dirt onto your bottom bracket / chain / chainrings.

Jake
 

hamishbarker

Well-Known Member
Regarding the front fender,

Regarding the front fender, yes I did it last weekend. Unfortunately, the brand new chain I had put on when I did the conversion (the donor bikes' chains were both cactus) got a wet days worth of crud on it in the first week, so no longer pristine. :-(.

I had a spare front fender, so cut an appropriate section to extend the existing one around to below the front BB. Pop riveted at the top and cable tie to the telescopic front tube. Unfortunately I ballsed up because I had shortened the TFT during the installation so that I could fit the pop riveter, and ended up having to re-rivet twice. So the new fender has multiple rivet holes and looks scruffy, but does a great job. Now my drivetrain has a chance to stay cleaner than any other bike I have ever had, since it is not facing the usual front wheel crud, and doesn't get the new source of front wheel spray either.

Regarding the BB, at this stage I am thinking of plans to build a full foam fairing a la John Tetz's method, so am keeping the BB as a potential mounting point for the bottom of the fairing. The fairing would be two parts, since the front will be fixed to the front triangle and BB, and thus needs to be able to pivot with respect to the back half. There will be overlap at the middle to allow for the pivot action. I also considered front fairing, tailcone and middle lycra body sock (or just nose fairing and body/tail sock), but I do like the potential crash and abrasion protection of the 12mm PE foam. (called zote foam in the US) compared to lycra. Anyway, that's the long term. But if I don't end up needing it, yes the existing BB will be hacksawed. From the frame quality I wouldn't be surprised if there is a kilo or two of aluminium down there!
 

currystomper

Well-Known Member
Bottom Bracket



When I built my conversion, I was pushed ( in the nicest way) to cut the BB off, something you might want to consider in the longer term.

http://cruzbike.com/scottish-conversion-2011

CS
 
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