My Vendetta adventure

[Rat Rider]

Went out for about an hour today. I got a late start, and it is inferno-hot hereabouts. Progressing. The intersections are still a crapshoot. The center water bottle holder needs to be removed. The bottle jams into my torso, and my thighs are rubbing the cage.

On a positive note, the bike went right up a rather short, but lusty 7% grade. I do not have a great-grandma bailout gear, so I was happy to maintain a very respectable pace up this first hill.

Also, I already feel the need to let out a little boom. I will no doubt have to replace some hoising with longer pieces. (What do people who don't have a room full of bike crap do in these situations.)

 

[ratz]

(What did people,who don't have a room full of bike crap do in these situations.)

Really long pre-dial in cable lengths...

The center water bottle holder needs to be removed. The bottle jams into my torso, and my thighs are rubbing the cage.

Same problem can't run a traditional bottle there. The "giant" aero bottle is the only one that I can put there; works good; but stupid expensive thanks to the carbon cage.

 

[BentAero]

What did people,who don't have a room full of bike crap do in these situations.

"I cut that cable off twice and it's still too short"
We buy more cable! It's the American way!

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Really long pre-dial in cable lengths...

Same here.

I usually go overkill on the first-build cable lengths, and let it be for about 500 miles or so. I feel after 500 miles I should be done tinkering with the handlebar and boom adjustments.

 

[ratz]

done tinkering

Blasphemy

 

[battleaxe0]

The center water bottle holder needs to be removed. The bottle jams into my torso, and my thighs are rubbing the cage.

I had the same problem with the water bottle there. Some have mounted a cage on top of the boom in the same place, but it may affect aero there.

 

[Rat Rider]

Same here.

I usually go overkill on the first-build cable lengths, and let it be for about 500 miles or so.

That's a long cable!

 

[jond]

I finally drilled a small hole in the webbing on my Vendetta v2 to clean up the routing line a bit more. This hole was added on later models but wasn't on mine.

well done eric. your excellent build diary really helped me assemble my bike.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

That's a long cable!

- should have seen that coming!

 

[ratz]

- should have seen that coming!

You're more likely to see it leaving and following behind.

 

[Rat Rider]

I changed out the front tire with the intention of riding. Since it was in the stand, I noticed the rear derailleur was whacky after reinserting the wheel. Crooked - just not straight. I could realign it by futzing with the QR, but, what? I CAN CHANGE it by the QR? Ugh. Anyway, my obvious issue with the derailleur hanger notwithstanding, I observe the X0 RD is coming at the cluster at a slight angle. (cursing) It shifted pretty well before I decided switch tires (BTW the 28c tire appears to fit ok- whew!). Unless something is very askew (in my thinking), I can only assume the RD is bent. While I am not inclined to believe this, I am ordering a brand new RD to replace it - A type 2 SRAM GX long cage. If the derailleur in not the problem, I may be stumped. The frame has almost no miles and has no clue of any abuse. Time will tell.

http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/lets-talk-front-wheel-removal.7200/page-3

This thread was illuminating. Some glue and others zip the derailleur hanger to the bike. I should stop typing now...

 

[jond]

I changed out the front tire with the intention of riding. Since it was in the stand, I noticed the rear derailleur was whacky after reinserting the wheel. Crooked - just not straight. I could realign it by futzing with the QR, but, what? I CAN CHANGE it by the QR? Ugh. Anyway, my obvious issue with the derailleur hanger notwithstanding, i observe the X0 RD is coming at the cluster at a slight angle. (cursing) It shifted pretty well before I decided switch tires (BTW the 28c tire appears to fit ok- whew!). Unless something is very askew (in my thinking), I can only assume the RD is bent. While I am not inclined to believe this, I am ordering a brand new RD to replace it - A type 2 SRAM GX long cage. If the derailleur in not the problem, I may be stumped. The frame has almost no miles and has no clue of any abuse. Time will tell.

http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/lets-talk-front-wheel-removal.7200/page-3

This thread was illuminating. Some glue and others zip the derailleur hanger to the bike. I should stop typing now...

hi rat rider check your alloy dropout is not bent. you should have a spare cruzbike include a spare with frameset. they are made to bend break before you damage your rear mech. i think you might find that if everything was straight before you changed the front tyre then all it will be is an alignment issue of the components.

check make sure you dropout is positioned correctly. turn your bike upside down on a mat and weight the rear. then have a good look at positioning of rear mech and drop out. your mech would be marked if you "hit" something with enough force to bend the dropout. good luck.

 

[super slim]

hi rat rider check your alloy dropout is not bent. you should have a spare cruzbike include a spare with frameset. they are made to bend break before you damage your rear mech. i think you might find that if everything was straight before you changed the front tyre then all it will be is an alignment issue of the components.

check make sure you dropout is positioned correctly. turn your bike upside down on a mat and weight the rear. then have a good look at positioning of rear mech and drop out. your mech would be marked if you "hit" something with enough force to bend the dropout. good luck.

You could use this tool to check and rebend the hanger to the correct alignment in both directions.
http://www.wiggle.com.au/lifeline-derailleur-hanger-alignment-tool/

 

[Rat Rider]

hi rat rider check your alloy dropout is not bent. you should have a spare cruzbike include a spare with frameset. they are made to bend break before you damage your rear mech. i think you might find that if everything was straight before you changed the front tyre then all it will be is an alignment issue of the components.

I am actually not sure it was all straight before. Since it snapped into place, and shifted OK, I assumed everything was straight. It isn't. It's probably a testament to the derailleur that it worked so well - regardless of where the problem lies. Oh well, I should have the new RD here in a couple days. If it goes on crooked, I guess I will start my examinations in the direction of the hanger.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

hi rat rider check your alloy dropout is not bent.

I second this. I bent one accidentally transporting the Vendetta in the truck of my wife's Forte Koup. Couldn't see it was bent, until I compared it to the spare. Made all the difference in the world.

 

[Rat Rider]

I received a second RD from the bay and installed it. As several of you warned, it too went on at an angle indicating the hanger must be bent. I removed it (the hanger) and could not tell anything was wrong with it. The metal was not stressed in any way, and had no signs of abuse.

Well, no signs until I got hold of it. I placed it against the edge of a hammer handle and introduced it to my rubber mallet. Introductions followed by reinstallation, more introductions etc., - rinse, repeat. After dancing to this tune 5 or 6 times, I seemed to have it on there straight. I would have bet against it working; but being wrong is a staple for me.

I have since taken it on another 15 miler, followed by the first real ride of 30 miles. The shifting is very good. Braking is good, but the M5 brakes will have to be removed. The brakes are sexy, very light, but too wide. I have a slight abrasion on the inside of my leg to prove it.

Comfort is an issue. I am not ready to give up on the Cruzbike seat, but I edge somewhat closer. Maybe I can move the headrest back a little and make it a little more comfortable. I saw posted here somewhere that a rider had taped the kotex-looking pad down. This was a good call, but I may still need to add additional padding to the headrest.

It continues.

 

[Rat Rider]

Has anyone ever used one of these on a Vendetta?

 

[Rat Rider]

Any big-legged-boy brake suggestions? I have these, but the recess in the front fork is making installation a bit funky.

 

[ratz]

Any big-legged-boy brake suggestions? I have these, but the recess in the front fork is making installation a bit funky.

View attachment 899

I'm running Ultegra 6800 right now because the braking power is great; I'm in the big thigh camp and I just slightly get leg interference now and then but only if my pedalling gets sloppy. The SRAM Force22 on the other hand are even smaller and cleaner. For both brake sets they install better if you add an extra brake washer to get them more forward of the fork. Get them here: http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/tektro-serrated-brake-washer-6-1x13-3-sb-silver

Now the brake you have there might have another option. They are definitely meant to be installed on the upper rear break mount of the Vendetta. But for the front one you might be able to install them "behind" the fork. I don't know if that will improve the interference for you, but it's definitely more aero. Just remember to swap the brake pad mounts if you do that so the have the correct orientation to wheel rotation. I've looked at that option on my V but not yet tried it to see if it would fit and work.

 

[Rat Rider]

Unfortunately, it won't fit behind the fork, that would have been kinda slick. I stuck in on the front, but needed two brake washers and a spacer for the pads to clear the fork. It will require an uber long brake nut to work. I am little uneasy about that much torque on the brake nut. However, that is the way I am leaning.