New Vendetta
- Thread starter Kerry Kerr
- Start date
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Same with me, only it was with my Metabike. It goes to show you, how the brain and reflex inputs work and how important it is to take the time to jell with something new. However, you can reacquaint yourself with the awkwardness of a non-MBB recumbent again with a little retraining and ride both.
Mark B
Zen MBB Master
I'm sure it can be done. I just didn't want to do it. Once I went over to the Cruzbike, it was all over, for me.
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
So, Im assuming that going up steep grades in the dark is going to take some getting use to! Ha!! Question, two of them. My skill of climbing up steeper grades will take some time ? High speed wobble if you try to spin, will get easier? I'm figuring out to stop without the "coach roach" spread, and getting better... biggest issue for me . BUT.... love the way I can push on this bike and how it is so much easier going up the hills.
RojoRacing
Donut Powered Wise-guy
yes and yes
In the 6 weeks I had the V before my first 24hr race I only did one 100 mile ride with everything else being short 20-30 mile rides. The main reason for this is in order to leave my city/area I have only 4 route options and each includes a steep section of road that is very dangerous due to there being no bike lane or shoulder. I was stuff riding in only one area because I feared my stability when climbing at 4-5 mph. This is really no longer a problem for me but I'll still never quite have the be able to nearly stall the bike and get going again on a climb like I can on a DF bike.
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
I knew better, but tried the steep route myself tonight. Gonna be easy to climb but... I fell over going up the hill, nearly there but too wobbly. Didn't hurt, not as far to fall like on the Bacchetta. I'll get there!
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
Three weeks out, getting much better. Climbed steepest hill in our area tonight, little wobbly still but feeling better. I have rival 22 derailiuer w/ yaw, having some trouble with the chain jumping off big ring, 50/34 Q ring. I have always had this problem with Q rings, removed mine on the Carbon Aero because it was so unreliable. I have it set at 0 yaw and the cage as close to the biggest tooth as I can. Ideas??
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Can you define "jumping off" do you mean
1) it is falling from the big ring to the little ring.
2) it is falling off to the outside when shifting from little to big
3) it is falling off to the inside when shifting from big to little
Do you have a reference for what you mean by "0 yaw" early models of the yaw derailleur make no reference to a yaw setting number. So either that new or you are expressing a technique that we need to understand to help you.
There is one thing to watch on the v20. If you change your boom position you have to loosen the triangle bolts. When you do that; the BB cup clamps float left and right. You need to observe where they are before you start. Otherwise if they are 1-3mm offset left or right then suddenly your FD won't shift correctly because it was a lighed at a different offset.
There are a ton of people here using the Q's without problems so we just need to figure out which piece of the puzzle you are missing. I personall find that the QXL's shift more faster and reliabily than round.
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
Its falling on to outside when shifting from little ring to big ring. I was wrong, Sram rival front deraileur . Bike mechanic that I go to, told me that he set the yaw at zero, soooo. Yes, I figured out the BB float thing the first week. Just puzzled .
RojoRacing
Donut Powered Wise-guy
Your first mistake was relying on your shop mechanic to fine tune your shifting with none standard parts. It'll be best if you study up a bit and fine tune it yourself. FD can be the most troublesome part of a bike to tune but it is possible. The whole yaw thing should be viewed as marketing and focused on. The device just needs to move the chain left and right enough to shift without going too far. Once you understand what you're trying to do it's just a matter of figuring out how to do it.
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
yup, that makes sense! Ill get it!
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
I had the same problem with mine on my older Silvio. Took me a year to figure out that the bike mechanics didn't know how to set up a Yaw derailleur and hadn't read the instructions--they were trying to do it like a standard Shimano derailleur. They just blamed the "weird" bike. I finally found a mechanic at another shop who was experienced with SRAM.
I'm just learning to tune my own Yaw derailleur. There are some good videos from Art's Cyclery and SRAM about how to set them up. See also my Silvio 1.5 thread, and ReklinedRider's Secret for getting the cable tension right.
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
Thanks thats great!
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
+1 on the video's yaw be different; once you get them figured out they are actually easier; because you can return them to "Default" then install and set; and boom done.
In your case with over shifts you need to turn your "upper limit screw" on the FD ¼ turn. Each quarter turn is 1mm of adjustment. Just do 1mm at a time until it stops over shifting. If you get to the point that it won't shift up you've gone too far. Now here are some tips.
1) You cable hosing will compress over the first 3 months; that means you will have to re-adjust the barrel adjuster over time to make up for the lost of housing length.
2) Once you get the limit screws dialed in; don't mess with them; use the barrel adjuster to fix, the limit screws don't get out of place; the housing is just compressing see item #1
3) If you fiddle too much don't be afraid to just do the full reset on the derailleur it is far faster.
Lastly the fastest way to save money is to get an inexpensive but good bike stand and slowly learn to be your own wrench. It's not only rewarding it's a huge money saver if you have more than 1 bike.
Then from the "i am riding stand point" as you debugg your FD shifting; it's always simple to just ever so slightly ease up on your foot pressure when you up shift; that will make the shifts more reliable and you can watch the chain climb up the ring; if it overshots; coast, down shift the front; back pedal about ⅛ a rotation and then start pedalling the chain will jump right back to the little ring. With practice you can get yourself out of just about any over shift situation; while you are learning to tune the derailleur this is a very valuable skill.
Also with sram I recommend adding one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Front-Derailleur-Chain-Spotter/dp/B008JEFQPS
you can find them cheaper if you look around.
then you never have to worry about a drop to the inside. We even run them on our e-tap electric stuff; just to be safe.
In your case with over shifts you need to turn your "upper limit screw" on the FD ¼ turn. Each quarter turn is 1mm of adjustment. Just do 1mm at a time until it stops over shifting. If you get to the point that it won't shift up you've gone too far. Now here are some tips.
1) You cable hosing will compress over the first 3 months; that means you will have to re-adjust the barrel adjuster over time to make up for the lost of housing length.
2) Once you get the limit screws dialed in; don't mess with them; use the barrel adjuster to fix, the limit screws don't get out of place; the housing is just compressing see item #1
3) If you fiddle too much don't be afraid to just do the full reset on the derailleur it is far faster.
Lastly the fastest way to save money is to get an inexpensive but good bike stand and slowly learn to be your own wrench. It's not only rewarding it's a huge money saver if you have more than 1 bike.
Then from the "i am riding stand point" as you debugg your FD shifting; it's always simple to just ever so slightly ease up on your foot pressure when you up shift; that will make the shifts more reliable and you can watch the chain climb up the ring; if it overshots; coast, down shift the front; back pedal about ⅛ a rotation and then start pedalling the chain will jump right back to the little ring. With practice you can get yourself out of just about any over shift situation; while you are learning to tune the derailleur this is a very valuable skill.
Also with sram I recommend adding one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Front-Derailleur-Chain-Spotter/dp/B008JEFQPS
you can find them cheaper if you look around.
then you never have to worry about a drop to the inside. We even run them on our e-tap electric stuff; just to be safe.
Last edited:
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
From the "never say never" dept...
I installed the SRAM chain spotter on mine and thought it to be a big plus...until the last time I fell. Somehow, I contrived to get the chain past the spotter on the inside (it wasn't a hard fall, but I was pedaling hard when I went down). It took me 10 minutes of cursing before I finally remembered that I had the proper hex key size in my bag (fits my pedal tension too) and got it out of the way enough to get the chain back in place. I was just about to split the chain king-link when I remembered.
I still run the chain spotter...but I make sure I have that little hex-key just in case!
I installed the SRAM chain spotter on mine and thought it to be a big plus...until the last time I fell. Somehow, I contrived to get the chain past the spotter on the inside (it wasn't a hard fall, but I was pedaling hard when I went down). It took me 10 minutes of cursing before I finally remembered that I had the proper hex key size in my bag (fits my pedal tension too) and got it out of the way enough to get the chain back in place. I was just about to split the chain king-link when I remembered.
I still run the chain spotter...but I make sure I have that little hex-key just in case!
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
Been there done that too! Now i make sure i have that 2.5mm hex wrench at all times also.
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
Ok thank Ratz, I can do "Purdy" good at the FD , but yes I need improvement, thanks for the info!!
super slim
Zen MBB Master
I din't know if this will help with a SRAM front derailleur, but it was a GREAT help on a Shimano triple!
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment#article-section-7
I wasted 3 hours last night trying to adjust it from memory, as according to "Tim the Tool Man", "Real Men do not need instructions!"
The two main mistakes was that the height adjustment was when the outer derailleur plate was directly over the top of the outer ring, not when in it final outer position, AND that after this adjustment, move the derailleur to the lowest position and make certain that there is NO tension on the inner cable!!!
Not doing the second one, had me wondering if I had lost something, as I kept going around in circles!
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment#article-section-7
I wasted 3 hours last night trying to adjust it from memory, as according to "Tim the Tool Man", "Real Men do not need instructions!"
The two main mistakes was that the height adjustment was when the outer derailleur plate was directly over the top of the outer ring, not when in it final outer position, AND that after this adjustment, move the derailleur to the lowest position and make certain that there is NO tension on the inner cable!!!
Not doing the second one, had me wondering if I had lost something, as I kept going around in circles!
Kerry Kerr
Active Member
Ok thank you, I'm studying and gonna not be defeated by the Q !!!
Loving the bike, rode 50 on it yesterday, fast and can climb so much easier that the Bacchetta, I'm a believer, just trying to get smoother. Thanx
