Newbie build question

[mgraham]

So my gently used near-silvio conversion arrived yesterday and I think that I've got it all back together correctly. I even managed to take it out for a quick spin today. (wow, these things are equal parts weird and cool!) Anyway, to my question:

Because I ride on 32's, my drive wheel has little clearance in the frame. In order to get it to fit between the fork and chainstay I had to slide the axle maybe halfway up the horizontal dropouts. The axle isn't hanging out of the end of the dropout or anything. Is this not a problem as long as my quick release is tightened properly? Should I immediately run screaming and grab the children before it explodes? Somewhere in between?

I've not ever built a bicycle before, so take it easy on the newbie!

 

[Doug Burton]

Welcome...

As you've mentioned, make sure the QR is tight on the adapter bracket. You should verify the QR is biting the bracket, and not just pulling up hard on the end of the axle. You may need to file 1mm or so off each axle end to insure this.

Also, Charles and Eric will begin hounding you for photos in 3, 2, 1...

Cheers,

Doug

 

[Charles.Plager]

 Sorry, no photos, it didn't

Sorry, no photos, it didn't happen...

 

[John Tolhurst]

This is the front wheel? If

This is the front wheel? If the wheel settles while you are riding, it will scrape the fork crown, this will slow you down, throwing more weight on the front, increasing the bite, until the front wheel locks and you tumble (possibly gracefully, but not guaranteed) through the air.

My recommendation, just put 28s on it, and be safe and happy.

 

[mgraham]

I understand what you're

I understand what you're saying, John, but this Mega-Clyde and smaller tires don't really get along well. Perhaps if I can work my weight down to 240ish I'll consider putting the 28s on, but if I did that right now (I've tried it in the past) it'll be all about the pinch flats.

To put your mind at ease, the previous owner had put rivet stops in the dropouts to prevent the axle from sliding all the way back anyway, and when I originally seated the wheel all the way against the stop I noticed that the tire was rubbing just a bit and gathering road dirt against the fork crown. So I don't while the wheel might slip, I don't think catastrophic failure (that way at least) is a problem.

 

[mgraham]

New Question

I figured that I would just ask my next question in this thread as I'm still getting used to the cruzbike phenomenon. I am able now to successfully commute to work and have even done a few miles around town. I have noticed that my tailbone begins to hurt after a few miles. I'm a heavy rider (see above) and so I'm thinking that I need to address this problem before it becomes an actual injury. I have narrowed down the cause (from reading the forum here) to three possibilities and I'd like some expert advice before committing to a course of action. The problem is definitely NOT muscle fatigue as it is a point of soreness on the sacrum.

1. I'm too tense in the upper body still and this is causing me to sit more on my tailbone than relaxing into the seat and back rest.
2. My natural padding and the stock padding isn't sufficient and needs to be improved.
3. My seatpan angle is still too shallow (I still have one more hole to move forward) and I'm not contacting the seat correctly.

Also, The bracket for the seat pan is really close to the steer tube. Should I decide to move the seat pan forward another spot, is it ill-advised to move the bracket backwards a touch along the top tube?

Thoughts?

 

[Charles.Plager]

Hi,
I've got my seat pans

Hi,

I've got my seat pans very close to the steerer tube as well and the seats tilted fairly far back (using a lay back seat post). I find the further back the seat angle, the more weight is on my back, the more comfortable my bottom (I'm not exactly light either, running around 215 lbs). There is something to be said about learning to ride the bike and then lowering the seat angle, so I don't know that I'd recommend this right away.

Both of my bikes are suspended which I think helps as well and both are run wider tires (1 1/4" to 1 1/2"), so that probably helps me as well.

I've also found the bottom seat padding a little on the thin side and have meant to go and upgrade it, but have never gotten around to it. I don't have issues for short rides, but have had issues for my longer rides (> 40 miles) with a more upright seat.

I'll suggest that you post pictures of your bike (because, well, you should really post pictures of your bike) with you sitting on your bike. I'm particularly interested to see how much we can move your seat and in which directions.

Cheers,
Charles

 

[mgraham]

Ok then.

So what follows is a picture of the bike in its current seat configuration. The second picture is a close-up of the position of the seat bracket and where it sits on the Y2K frame. A picture of me ON the bike will have to wait (possibly a while) for two reasons: 1. No one to take a picture and 2. I hate posing for pictures. For the record I'm a very big guy, 6' and 267 lbs with a 38" waist. Sometimes it is easier to suggest easy solutions if you know what kind of dimensions you're dealing with. I'm not cramped on the bike and have no difficulties with agility; it's just that my ancestors (the Slovaks) found it easier to pull the plows themselves rather than rely on horses!

 

[Jeremy S]

Hi Matthew, I think you might

Hi Matthew, I think you might be on to something with your point (1), my experience with my Silvio at least is that my lower back is more comfortable if I scoot forward/down in the seat a bit. Of course if that doesn't work out your points (2) and (3) sound like good things to experiment with.

 

[Charles.Plager]

Hi, It looks like you have

Hi,

It looks like you have room to move the seat forward one set of holes (1/2). Not much, but it may help.

I'd definitely investigate padding the seat more. Do you have an old yoga mat lying around (or even thin memory foam pillow) to add to the padding? You really shouldn't be feeling pain after only a few miles.

I do think that you're right that once you get more used to the bike, you'll relax and that should help, but I'm afraid that if you don't get more comfortable, you won't get to that point so easily, so I do think it's worth playing around with the fit.

Please let us know how it goes. Good luck!

Charles

 

[ReklinedRider]

Dummy question(s) of the day:

Wasn't sure where to post this but a 'new to building up a bike' thread seemed like a good choice...

Finally starting to build up the Silvio 1.5 that I bought used, frame only. Looking at the FD cable routing, the cable stop (or is it a shifter boss?) for it on the boom appears to be threaded, but is it? Or is it my imagination? If it is, what threads into it? Is there a type of barrel adjuster that screws in? Looking at Silvio build pics, several show a barrel adjustor placed there but I can't really tell if it is in the cable stop or placed inline.

And, the stop doesn't seem to allow a derailleur cable ferrule to fit down in it. The barrel that came with my brifters (SRAM Rival) is an inline type and so doesn't fit in the stop either. So, not sure what to do with this pretty basic step.
Other than this things are going pretty smoothly, if slowly. But! I'm just getting started. Would definitely appreciate any advice!

Kline

 

[Jeremy S]

Kline, yes it is threaded,

Kline, yes it is threaded, and yes a barrel adjuster screws in there. The barrel adjuster fits a ferrule and acts as a cable stop.

 

[ReklinedRider]

Threaded barrel adjustor

Hi Jeremy, thanks! Glad to hear I wasn't imagining things.

I've looked online and can't seem to stumble across the appropriate barrel adjustor for this. Any suggestions?

Your 2.0 looks great, btw. Nice job, and especially so for your never having built up a frameset before.

Regards,

Kline

 

[Jeremy S]

Thanks! The barrel adjuster

Thanks! The barrel adjuster came with my 2.0... I'm suprised you don't have one. It looks an awful lot like this (found with Google image search):

 

[ReklinedRider]

Hmmm

Yeah that looks right. There was probably one that came with the frame when new. I believe the seller had the components removed by her LBS who likely didn't keep it with the frame. I will just have to keep looking. Will check with my LBS to see if they have any.

thanks again!

 

[ReklinedRider]

Good old Amazon

Found what looks to be a suitable replacement on Amazon. Of course! Guess I'll see if it works when it gets here.

Once again Jeremy I appreciate your assistance!

 

[ReklinedRider]

Thanks ratz

Thank you ratz. I had looked at Jagwire's website but missed that one. Will order one along with the Tektro brake washers.

Great build diary you put on BROL. I have studied your build series along with Ivan's, Jeremy's, and virtually all others. Still learning...and will be for a long long time!

mgraham-- sorry to have hijacked your thread. You may have it back now

Best regards to all,

Kline

 

[ratz]

connector source

It's a Jagwire threaded barrel connector you can get the part # from jagwire.com if necessary then just plug the part number into amazon if you are unsure if you have the correct one. The Part # is BSA028

Another very useful part for assembling bikes is a Serrate Brake Washer; sometime you need Qty 2 when the brake is too close to the frame and they are harder than heck to find. Of course brakes only ever come with qty 1.

The part is a Tektro Serrated Brake Washer #6.1x13.3 SB Silver amazon has them direct from Tektro; or you can get them at Niagra Cycles. Beyond that you have to beg at the local bike shop. I always keep a few of those in a jar.