Packing the Quest in Samsonite case...

jwitten

Active Member
This post shows how to pack the QUEST in the newer Samsonite F'Lite GT Case. The case is available from Amazon for about $170 (US). The Cruzbike video on YouTube is for the older F'Lite case. The newer F'Lite GT case is of a slightly different design - it is not symmetrical, and is a bit fatter and wider on one end than the other. I found that I couldn't position the parts of the bike in the same manner as the video shows with the older case, but a slightly different packing method still allows the bike to fit. It is a nice, snug fit, almost as if the case were custom built for the bike! A helmet, small tool bag, and quick-release Topeak rack will fit in the case as well. It took a lot of trial-and-error to figure out the best fit, so I hope this helps some other QUEST owners who intend to travel with the bike.

The Cruzbike video on YouTube demonstrates how to dismantle the bike for packing, but here are a few additional pointers:

1. Ensure that the chain is on the smallest sprocket, and lift the chain off of the forward chainring. This will relieve any tension from the derailleur for easy removal. After removing the derailleur from the bike, I place it in a sock to keep it from scratching the bike's paint. This also keeps the chain from twisting around and makes re-assembly much easier. (a twisted chain and derailleur can be a Rubik's Cube to unravel.)

2. To release the DualDrive wheel attachment, ensure that the Shift Lever is positioned to the "hill climb" position. This releases tension on the cable. I also lift the cable housing off of the lower braze-on to completely release the tension. After doing so, push the button on the Clickbox assembly and pull it free from the control rod. If you like, you can unscrew and remove the control rod to protect it, but with this packing method it is not really necessary.

3. Completely remove the two quick releases for the seat-post and shock. They will prevent the bike from folding if they are in place.

4. Slightly loosen the allen screws on the top seat brackets. The brackets need to rotate and swivel freely so they can lay flat against the seat-back. Also, completely remove the thumb screws that attach the upper and lower seats. The thumbscrews for attaching the lower seat to the bike can remain on the seat. Sorry, no water bottle brackets on the back of the upper seat either.

5. Remove the quick-release skewer from the rear wheel. The case won't close with the skewer in place.

6. Loosen the allen screws on the brake levers and front stem so that they can rotate freely on the handlebars. This is required for the handlebars to lay flat in the case. The upper triangle tube must also be pulled completely out of the lower tube. If you don't do so, there is not enough slack in the brake and shifter cables to position the handlebars correctly. Any mirrors on the bar end must also be removed.

The following photos show how the major parts are positioned in the case. Normally, I wrap the seats in old
t-shirts, and place most of the tubes and other spare parts in tube-socks for protection. I have not done so in these photos so the parts are more easily identified. I also have a few pieces of carpet and cardboard for padding that aren't shown.

1a.jpg


The photo above shows the folded bike positioned in the case. The forks are in the upper left, and the seat tube is in the upper right. It is a very snug fit, and the frame is not able to shift around at all. The upper seat is positioned under the frame. The frame fits better if the small derailleur mounting plate is removed from the fork. Be sure to put some padding between the front chainring and the frame! Also wrap the seat-back in an old t-shirt for protection.

2a.jpg


The photo above shows the handlebars and upper triangle tube positioned in the case. It is a bit tough to see, but the right brake lever is positioned under the steering tube and the right hand grip is positioned above it. The upper triangle tube is positioned parallel to the forks of the bike. This will take a bit of manipulation of the cables, but its not too tough to do. I normally slide a tube-sock over the tube to keep it from scratching the forks.

3a.jpg


The photo above shows the placement of the seat bottom and helmet. I also place the pedals and a bag of other small parts (quick-releases, rear wheel skewer, seat thumb screws, etc) in the helmet. Wrap the seat bottom in an old t-shirt. Any other small pieces (seat tube, spare tire tube, folding tire, etc) can be placed in the existing hollows.

4a.jpg


The photo above shows the front wheel positioned over the frame, brake disk up. The DualDrive pushrod will be down and protected from damage. No padding is required as the inflated tires provide the padding. I have placed the lower seat pad in the upper right corner, and my small behind-the-seat tool bag in the lower right corner. (I tried placing the disk down, as recommended in the Cruzbike video, but it just doesn't seem to fit as well)

7a.jpg


The photo above shows how I position the Topeak quick-release rack and seat back pad.

8a.jpg


The photo above shows the rear wheel in position over the front wheel. I have placed a piece of carpet over the Topeak rack, and also made a small roll of carpet to act as a spacer to keep the rear wheel from resting directly on the front wheel disk. The rear wheel disk is down. Both disks are well protected, but I intend to make some disk protectors out of wide diameter tubing for even greater protection.

6a.jpg


Close the case, and off you go! The bike is quite snug in the case, but the lid closes easily.

The Samsonite case is offered in a 2 wheel model, as well as a 4 spinner-wheel model. This is the two wheeled model. I would not recomend the 4 spinner model as the wheels are much smaller, and will likely suffer damage if you travel much. My impression of the 2-wheel model is that it is very well built. The handles, wheels, and locks appear strong and durable. The lock is also TSA approved. The case provides great protection for the bike, and is easy to roll around. It is also under 2 feet wide, and fits through the standard 24" airport x-ray machines.

Well, I hope this helps some others who are considering traveling with their QUEST.

Take Care,

Jeff
 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
If you've never seen a Quest

If you've never seen a Quest I bet this looks understandable but still a little mysterious. If you have a Quest, this is a marvelous write-up and is extremely helpful.

Jeff, as an industry insider, what is your experience with tire inflation when transporting a bicycle by airplane? My understanding is there is no real need to deflate your tires unless perhaps they are overinflated to begin with.

http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/cycling-myths.html

I've never travelled with a bike by plane, are there regulations and/or various airline policies requiring the tires to be deflated?

-Eric

 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
Hi,
If you are very worried


Hi,

If you are very worried about tires popping, you can deflate them by 15 PSI (the equivalent of atmospheric pressure). Then you're good to go even if you send your bike into outer space.

You are better off not deflating your tire at all than completely deflating it as when there is air in the tire, it will help protect the rim. As long as the wheels fit in the suitcase, either leave 'em alone or let a tiny bit of air out.

Plazebo, the wheels are a bit bigger than you're probably expecting. The Quest uses 451mm wheels which I call 22", but the industry calls 20". The standard 20" folding BMX bike tires are 406 mm (and just to confuse matters more, the actual diameter of the wheel depends also on the size of the tire).

Cheers,
Charles
 

jwitten

Active Member
more info...

Good question regarding tire pressure while flying, and good response from Charles. I just checked my Boeing 737 manual to see exactly what the pressure altitude of the cabin is at altitude. Most airliners cruise between 30,000 to 43,000 feet. Higher altitudes equal thinner air and more fuel efficiency. As the aircraft burns off fuel and reduces its weight, it is able to climb to the upper edge of the envelope, although the headwind/tailwinf factor at different flight levels must be considered as well. The newer 737's service ceiling is 41,000 feet, and the 777's is 43,000. Even at the max service ceiing, the cabin pressure is only 8,000 feet. Most cargo bays are also pressurized and heated for carrying luggage (think aerosol deodorant and shaving cream), and for carring animals.

A good rule of thumb is that for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain, the pressure in the tire will increase by a bit less than 4%. If you started at sea level and went up to 8,000 pressure altitude in the cabin, the pressure would increase by about 25 to 30% or so. So if you keep your tires inflated on the high side, it would probably be a good idea to let a little air out. There is no regulation about this, that I am aware of anyway, but still probably a good idea.

Regarding travel regulations, every airline sets their own, but the most common standard for an overweight (and an additional fee) is 50 pounds, and a length+width+height measurement of 60 inches. The bike is in the neighborhood of 30 pounds, and the case weighs about 12, so the weight limitation is no issue. The size is just over the limit though. I have seen various published measurements, but I just measured my case and it is 31"x22"x12"= 65", so it is slightly over the limit. The wheels stick out a bit, which might be the reason for the different measurements found online, and the spinner-wheel model may measure sligtly different as well?? I doubt the 65" will be an issue as most counter agents just put it on a scale for the weight, and just eyeball the size. I have yet to see anyone break out the tape measure, although it may happen ocassionally. I read the Amazon reviews of the case before buying it, and it seems that few people indicated being charged for a oversize item. It is a possibility though. If you do buy the Samsonite case, make sure to get the 2 wheel model and not the 4 spinner-wheel model. The 2 wheel model has large, tough wheels, but the smaller spinner wheels will be quickly damaged or broken when handled by airport personnel, or by the automated luggage handling equipment. I bought the black case as it is sort of a regulation for pilots to have black luggage, but the case comes in orange as well, for color coordinating with the Quest... although that's probably more of a female concern!

Again, Charles provided the basics on the 451wheels. I would assume that the 451 is the diameter of the rim in millimeters, which equals 17.75", but I measured mine and the rim has an 18.5" diameter?!? With the stock Quest tires installed, the diameter is 20.5". The drawback of the 451 wheels is that there are not a lot of tire options available, and I have only seen road tires in this size. I was able to find a folding tire (Panaracer) so I could have a spare on the road. Some people have outfitted the Quest with standard 20" BMX wheels that have a wider variety of tire options available for those wanting knobby / wider / fatter tires.

BTW - For Charles: My triple chainring parts for the Sofrider are in the mail from Amazon. While out on a quick 20 mile jaunt on the local bikepath this morning, I noticed that my large chainring has a slight bend in it and was causing some chain noise, so I guess my timing is perfect. I'll probably take it into the bikeshop next week for installation as I am a bit time-crunched with the kids and honey-do list. Still not sure if I should leave the small chainring as stock, or swap it for the even smaller one that I ordered? I had toyed with the idea of a Rohlhoff hub, but the $1200+ pricetag nixed that real quick.

This morning's ride was my first with my new, larger moped mirrors installed, and they are AWESOME! Very solid, no vibration, and now I can see everything behind me. I like them MUCH, MUCH better than my helmet mirror or smaller bar-end mirror. Everyone has there own taste though.

Anyway, I have once again spent way too much time on this post, so I guess that's about all.

Jeff
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
Hi Jeff,
If you are going to


Hi Jeff,

If you are going to have the shop do the work, I'd put the 22T on now (I used this one). If you can pull the crank yourself (you'll need a crank puller - I recommend buying this tool kit as it has almost everything you need (except cable cutter) for, well pretty much everything), then there's no hurry (except that if you're going to have the bike shop do it, they'll adjust the derailleurs which can be a pain in the butt).

Mirrors are important on any bike and very important on any recumbent. That you found big vibration free mirrors is fantastic. Can you post a link?

IGHs are cool, but expensive enough that I've never been too tempted. Derailleurs work well enough for me.

Cheers,
Charles

 

jwitten

Active Member
info needed...

Charles,

I received all of the parts today, except for the N-Gear Jump Stop. Apparently I forgot to select a size, so the order didn't process. Any idea what size you ordered (34.9, 31.8, or 29mm)? I am on a weekend trip and away from my Sofrider, so I can't measure the tube at the moment. Hope you can help me out??

Also, did the Tool Kit you mentioned above have "socket-type" BB tools so the BB can be torqued to spec's. Or are they standard wrench's? With the plastic sleeve on the one end, I've read that its important to set the spec'd torque. It sounds like a pretty simple job, so perhaps I will tackle it myself.

Thanks in advance!

Jeff
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
Hi Bill,
You want the 34.9


Hi Bill,

You want the 34.9 size for the jump stop. The kit has the bottom bracket tools for both the square taper bottom brackets as well as the external bottom brackets (like with teh FSA Gossimer crankset).

I don't have a torque wrench, so I just kinda guess (think Goldilocks - not too loose and not too tight).

Cheers,
Charles
 
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