Parking Stabilization ideas
- Thread starter ak-tux
- Start date
Seth Cooper
Well-Known Member
Ohh, I like that bungee. I was just thinking about this yesterday, I wanted something small and easy to apply, but also that could not be missed so don't forget to remove it and ride off with the steering locked. A fancy improvement would be some sort of tiny retractable cords that could be stowed below the seat so it would easy to put on and off.
tiltmaniac
Zen MBB Master
Rubber band anti-flop.
I leave this on permanently. It lets me move the bike with one hand, from the rear.
Thread: https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/
Link showing mounting (I use thumbscrews to hold the seat on below, which provides for a nice mounting place, even if the seat is the regular CB seat):
https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/#post-143151
Here is an example of front deflection when tilting the bike (when the bike isn't tilted, the wheel is basically straight):
https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/page-2#post-143154
This has made parking a cinch.
I leave this on permanently. It lets me move the bike with one hand, from the rear.
Thread: https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/
Link showing mounting (I use thumbscrews to hold the seat on below, which provides for a nice mounting place, even if the seat is the regular CB seat):
https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/#post-143151
Here is an example of front deflection when tilting the bike (when the bike isn't tilted, the wheel is basically straight):
https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/page-2#post-143154
This has made parking a cinch.
Seth Cooper
Well-Known Member
I'm going to try it.
RojoRacing
Donut Powered Wise-guy
Some of us have been using a rubber band(spring coil) anti flop system for years. Sometimes it gets called an anti flop sometimes a steering stabilizer but the devise is always the same with the same function of keeping your bike under control when not riding it.
benphyr
Guru-me-not
@RojoRacing Can you post some links or pictures of yours?
Balor
Zen MBB Master
My tests (using two head angle prototypes - straight and negative so far) suggest that using a really strong anti-flop is a great boon both off and ON the bike.
Due to combination of conventional wheel flop, and 'flop into turn' and 'flop into lean' that are many orders of magnitude stronger than on conventional bikes (due to weight distribution of steered parts - entire transmission plus your legs) most problems of MBB riders stem exactly from that.
Using steering angle closer to 90 deg solves two kinds of flop, but not flop into lean (which is actually useful in a way, but not when TOO strong. Making boom very short can solve it, too - but will introduce unbearable tiller length).
Return to center spring of calibrated strength is actually better than steering damping so far as control over the bars is concerned (and easier to implement), and is critically important - 'trail' is, basically, that spring, and riding bikes very little or no trail (or, worse yet, negative trail) is hard unless your CG is very far from steering axis (slow steering on LWB) - but on FWD bikes your CG MUST be close to steering axis or you'll get wheel spin due to rearward weight bias (like Rohorn's Flowroller).
Do read Patterson's work on 'control spring', it is very enlightening, though he did not address MBB bikes with their quirks in particular (though he recommended about 10 cm of trail for best control if using conventional steering angles in personal communication. In case of 90 deg, 5-6 cm is quite enough for absolute stability at any speed).
Due to combination of conventional wheel flop, and 'flop into turn' and 'flop into lean' that are many orders of magnitude stronger than on conventional bikes (due to weight distribution of steered parts - entire transmission plus your legs) most problems of MBB riders stem exactly from that.
Using steering angle closer to 90 deg solves two kinds of flop, but not flop into lean (which is actually useful in a way, but not when TOO strong. Making boom very short can solve it, too - but will introduce unbearable tiller length).
Return to center spring of calibrated strength is actually better than steering damping so far as control over the bars is concerned (and easier to implement), and is critically important - 'trail' is, basically, that spring, and riding bikes very little or no trail (or, worse yet, negative trail) is hard unless your CG is very far from steering axis (slow steering on LWB) - but on FWD bikes your CG MUST be close to steering axis or you'll get wheel spin due to rearward weight bias (like Rohorn's Flowroller).
Do read Patterson's work on 'control spring', it is very enlightening, though he did not address MBB bikes with their quirks in particular (though he recommended about 10 cm of trail for best control if using conventional steering angles in personal communication. In case of 90 deg, 5-6 cm is quite enough for absolute stability at any speed).
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Balor
Zen MBB Master
Given strong enough antiflop, you can make even 'French-like' MBB design to behave well at all speeds:
http://velomobile.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4835133#p4835133
Nice solution for using leaf springs for frame, builder claims about 12 cm of travel and no pogo (due to combination of leaf springs and wood for some damping). Heavy though, using carbon or glass fiber would have been better of course
.
http://velomobile.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4835133#p4835133
Nice solution for using leaf springs for frame, builder claims about 12 cm of travel and no pogo (due to combination of leaf springs and wood for some damping). Heavy though, using carbon or glass fiber would have been better of course
.
hurri47
Well-Known Member
I do the exact same thing to allow me to wheel around my tank-steering Greenspeed Aero, but it never occurred to me to try the same solution on my Silvio. *s
