Q 451 v2 assembly question

[crazy_ebot]

My secondhand Quest 451 (v2) arrived today. I’ve assembled most of it, but I have one question: the rear wheel is stuck, and The cause seems to be the disc brake.

From what I can tell the disc isn’t aligned with the brake pad. It’s like the disc needs spacers to push it out. Am I missing something?

Also, I can’t get the SRAM little black box to click? Plug? Into the little nail looking thing.

 

[RAGBRAI VI]

The Bike Friday site has an excellent article on the Dual Drive, including the click box. Also google sram bb5 for info on the brake. It may be that the red knob (inboard) needs to be turned counter clockwise to widen the space between the brake pads. I bought my 451 Quest a year ago and am very pleased with it. I did find the factory seat pad to be uncomfortable and have purchased a ventisit pad.

 

[Doug Burton]

Make sure the wheel is centered in the frame and the quick release is tight.

Loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket (the ones that face down, not to the side.)

Have some one squeeze the rear brake lever hard for you.

Re-tighten the two bolts while the person is still holding the brake lever tight.

This will center the caliper on the disc.

Then spin the back wheel.

If the pads are dragging the disc, back off on the inner pad using the adjusting bolt (and a 5mm allen wrench) until the dragging just stops.

This should get everything set right.

 

[crazy_ebot]

Thanks for the links and advice Ragbrai and Doug.

I got the SRAM drive working. I kept tripping up by missing that the gear housing was free/poking out either at the lever end, or mid way down the bike stem, and thus the level in the click box wouldn’t budge. Sorted now.

As for the rear disc brake... I removed the disc and it looked true, but when I put it back and slid it into the calipers it was definitely not true. However, I’m not sure if it’s a‘not true, but within tolerance’ kinda scenario.

Like I said, not a lot of disc brake experience.

I did try adding a couple of small washers/spacers to the inside of the caliber housing (between the housing and frame), which pushed the whole housing closer to the wheel, which allowed the wheel to slide in and turn (as opposed to before when it was completely jammed)... but it’s still rubbing too hard to spin freely, and I’ve adjusted the calipers to be as loose as they can be.

I suspect that when I first tried to put the wheel on, I forced the disc into the housing and bent the disc, but on the other hand, there is no way the disc was ever going to fit in where it was. It was a good 3 mm away from being aligned with the housing.

So in the really short term, I removed the rear disc (no stopping power there anyway), and went for a test ride.

Effortless. It’s been 5-6 years... but like any other bike, once you learn, you don’t forget. Freaking awesome.

I think I’m going to have to take the rear brake to a bike shop. I’m not confident enough with the mechanics.

There’s one other thing I need to do. I’m pretty sure the gear cables have been set up incorrectly: they’re currently running out of the levers and under the handlebar, where I think they should be running over.

By running under, there seems to be a cable bulge that’s rubbing against my left leg (incidentally, if there’s a less soft-port way of articulating this issue let me know).

If the cable ran over the handlebar, I think it wouldn’t come in contact. My question then: is it easier to remove the gear lever housing from the handlebar (keeping the housing and cables together), or unattached the cables from the housing. I’ve never done either, and I’m worried that if I disconnect the cables I won’t be able to reconnect them, or I’ll stuff up the cable tension (or something).

 

[crazy_ebot]

Fixed the twist shifter: got drunk (not actually true), gathered up the courage to watch a YouTube video, and discovered getting the shifter off the handlebar was the easiest thing in the world.

 

[rfneep]

I ran into the same problem when I installed new TRP Spyke disc brakes on my Q. Getting the disc aligned was just outside the available range of adjustment for the caliper. I ended up putting a thin washer (roughly a mm thick) between the caliper and the caliper mount to move it over. Worked fine.

 

[crazy_ebot]

To stop the cable from rubbing, I used some rope tied to the handlebar extender. Works fine, and now neither cable nor shifter contacts with my legs.View media item 338
Elegance is something I appreciate, but I tend to settle for ‘it works.’ I might duck over to Bunnings and see if I can find a black plastic zip tie.

 

[crazy_ebot]

Rode to work today. 20km in 45minutes. Interestingly, that’s the same time as with my (electrically converted) Elliptigo.

Question about the Velcro headrest: is it only for short people? I’m 6feet, and I can’t envisage the headrest as sitting anywhere higher than my between my shoulder blades.

One other observation- my right foot occasionally clips the chain stay, possibly the rear derailleur. Is that normal?

 

[super slim]

Yes, if you walk like a duck, with toes pointing outwards!
The Silvio 100 mm chainstay extension was great for me, as I had worn a hole in the outer leather, on the right shoe heel inside!

Make certain that the shoe float is even on BOTH sides of the natural foot position, as you do not want to load up your knee.

Try moving the cleat position on your right shoe off center to the inside of the foot.

Also try and move both cleats as far back on the shoe as possible, to reduce the heel position inwards.

 

[crazy_ebot]

I wasn’t wearing clip shoes initially. Tried today- solved the heel problem, but I’m not comfortable clipping in and out. Going to change the pedals to normal ones and practise better pedalling instead.

 

[Mathew Fy]

I wasn’t wearing clip shoes initially. Tried today- solved the heel problem, but I’m not comfortable clipping in and out. Going to change the pedals to normal ones and practise better pedalling instead.

Some people use pedal extenders to eliminate heel strike. To maintain foot contact others use heel clips on platform pedals (like modified toe clips mounted backwards.)

 

[crazy_ebot]

Yeah - thanks. I found a post from a guy who built some heel guards using thick wire. Neat idea.

 

[benphyr]

I wasn’t wearing clip shoes initially. Tried today- solved the heel problem, but I’m not comfortable clipping in and out. Going to change the pedals to normal ones and practise better pedalling instead.

I found that clipped in was a huge boost to riding, helps with balance and power and getting weary of trying to hold feet on the pedals. That being said, I was relatively comfortable riding on an upright clipped in. What I did was back off the tension adjustment all the way on the mountain bike spd pedals that I have so that the shoes pop out with the slightest provocation but if they are in the right orientation they hold in ok. That enabled me to get comfortable without worrying about unclipping. It really did make riding easier having that constant connection without having to concentrate on keeping the feet on the pedals. Encourage to try them again if you can.

 

[RAGBRAI VI]

When I started riding my 451 it had the original chainstay and had been fitted with pedal extenders. The extenders made my left knee hurt and my size 12 shoes brushed the clickbox. Taking a hint from another posting on this site, I called Cruzbike and ordered the chainstay for a 559 Quest. I could then remove the pedal extenders and had no more concerns with the heel of my right foot hitting the clickbox. The "conversion" is easy to do and as I never plan on folding and shipping the bike, I don't care that it would now take a bigger box. I'm 6 ft tall and for me this transformed the bike from one that I could ride to one that I enjoy riding. Also, for me clipping in is essential for confidently and comfortably riding this bike.

 

[crazy_ebot]

Benphyr, I'll consider your suggestion about having very light tension on the SPDs - thanks.

Ragbrai, I hear what you're saying about the 559 Chainstay. I emailed Rob at Cruzbike support concerning that, a Ventsit, and replacement seat adjustment brackets. Waiting to hear back.

I've posted more details in the innovators thread... But I've also recently completed a e-conversion to the bike. Pictures below.




A couple of additional (post) assembly tips I've picked up:

• The SRAM dual drive is a discontinued tech, so sourcing replacement part will be tough going forward.
• Still on the drive, some local bike shops are unfamiliar with it, so it pays to know yourself that the cable adjustment to the click box shouldn't be messed with, or at least, learn how to correctly adjust it yourself.
• Always remember to really tighten the lock nuts on the front wheel [slaps own forehead]
• Trust your gut. If something feels 'off', don't ignore it. I've been surprised by how many things I've almost (or have) fixed solo.

 

[ChaleJake]

• Always remember to really tighten the lock nuts on the front wheel [slaps own forehead]

I’ll emphasize this comment. I was coming down a rails to trails road overpass and my front wheel jarred loose. I stopped ok and all was fine except my ego. I had to walk the bike (Q559) about a half mile to my car.