Quest 559 experiences and modifications

dave.g

Member
Cruzbike Quest 559 experiences and modifications

1.Initial thoughts

After following Cruzbike for some time on the internet I bought a Quest 559 and took my first swerving rides along the country lanes around where I live. This was certainly an interesting experience but my knees were clashing with the handlebars and also with the Dualdrive shifter although I am normally sized and proportioned.
There was also a continuous light pinging noise that came from the spokes (as on Billyk's Quest). This faded with time.

2. Changes up front

I first tried reversing the stem and although this did give me enough knee clearance I did not like the 'praying hamster' position. More had to be done.

The stem was changed to one with a 45deg rise and the bars were changed for ones that on a normal bike would give both a pulled-back and raised hand position. They are called 'Parade Bars' by some. These were mounted so that the hand positions were forward of the stem giving maximum knee clearance.

The bottom bracket sits further above the front wheel when adjusted for shorter riders (I am 5'8"). To make the most of the advantage of lower pedal height on the MBB design and maximize knee clearance I lowered the BB position by 50mm. This was done by rewelding the tube attached to the BB shell so that it was opposite the tabs that hold the hinge (I also void warranties!). This reduced wheel clearance would limit the extension possible for longer legs, but I was only thinking of me!

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The DualDrive gearing was replaced with a single front chainwheel with a 36x11-34 set up. This was because I like simplicity and because I could lose the shifter on the bars. The downside is that I lost the smooth motion of the Cruzbike oval 42 tooth chainwheel.
The gearing covers most of my cycling needs although on the steepest hills, being unheroic, I get off and push!

My knees no longer clashed with the bars and the riding position now felt right for me.

3. Wheels

I changed the tyres to Marathon Racers. I feel happier with a little more air between me and the bumps. The tyres did not quite give enough room for fitting a front mudguard.
Nevertheless mudguards were fitted. The front fork crown had to be filed slightly (!) to give enough clearance.

4. Changes at the rear

I have made wooden seatstays. This makes the seat less easy to take off but I don't fold the bike anyway. This then allowed the fitting of a bag tucked in behind the seat and out of the breeze. The bag was an old orange rucksack from which I cut a small hole in the base to allow the seatstays to pass up into it. The bag is clamped between the top of the stays and the seat. The sides are held tight to the seat by glued on poppers although they will pop off when the bag is tightly filled - bigger poppers needed! The volume of the bag is compromised by the internal seatstays but is enough for some shopping or clothes.

DSC00448.JPG width: 336px; height: 448px;


horses 032.jpg


5. What would I like to see on the Quest Mark 3?

• 10mm more wheel clearance and mudguard stay anchor points on the front fork.
• A lower position for the bb when set for shorter riders. Perhaps a 'J' shaped front tube like that seen on the Vendetta would work.
• A rear seat support to allow the fitting of an aerodynamic seatbag.
• I think the bike would look aesthetically better with a 700c rear wheel. The larger, easier-rolling wheel would also create no more drag as it is mostly in the aerodynamic shadow of the seat.

6. Conclusion

I am now enjoying the ride which is different, comfortable, a bit swervey and rather addictive. Although I prefer a standard bike for urban riding the Quest 559 is my mount of choice for rural rides.
 

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
No one will ever be in any

No one will ever be in any doubt about whose bike that is!!! I like your courage to get in a make it yours. I also like the way you have kept the front low - but I wonder on the durability of rewelding heat treated alloy.
 

fatall

Member
I've only had my quest for

I've only had my quest for just a month now, and I had a similar problem to you about hitting my knee's on the brake and gears levers, but I solved my problem by fitting a long adjustable stem. I do agree that another eloquent option would be the curved j top bar from the Vendetta.

I also have the wheel pinging from the spokes....I think. It only happens when there is a load on the bike. I originally thought it was the wheel reflectors causing the pinging. I am unsure if I should leave it to see if it goes away, or get the wheel spokes retentioned?

I have also thought about replacing the eliptical chainring and replacing it with a 36t, but as I have only done about 150 kilometres or so, I am not sure if it is the gears or my muscle's getting used to the different riding position? I think I will wait another month or so and get used to riding this recumbent and do some longer climbs to see how I go and after a month or so, if I still run out of gears on the hills around here, I will replace the chainring then?
 

billyk

Guru
I cut the fender, not the bike!

Dave.G - Love the way you modified the bike! I may try your seatbag mount. Simple! I'd be inclined to attach the bag through holes or slots cut in the wood stays, using straps and clips (what's a "popper"?). That would avoid having the stays inside the bag and would then be easily removable.

I also had a problem after putting on larger tires (26x1.5) and then finding no room for a fender. Well, just enough room - there was no rubbing - but then my tire picked up a bit of road junk. It fit between the tire and the fender until it got to the fork crown, where it wedged. And I stopped ... right away!

But I solved this problem by cutting a notch in the fender so it sits higher, not by filing the bike. You obviously have more nerve than I do (and care less about the warranty).

(Fatall - definitely have your spokes checked. This noise will only happen with weight on the wheel.) And this looks like the third report of loose spokes on new Quests just in the past few weeks. On 3 continents, no less. Maybe assembly procedures should be rethought?

Billy
 

MrSteve

Zen MBB Master
Bolts and Poppers and-

Nice looking bike, Dave.G!

Poppers are snaps, right? Sort of like grommets, only different, right?

Well, anyway, nice bike... but I second Johns' concern regarding welding heat-treated Al.
-Voiding warrantees is fun!

Here's my input on attaching bags to the seatback:
-consider lashing the bag(s) in place.
Thin, strong and flexible, cordage can be ideal for lashing bags onto your bike.
Think parachute cord... nylon cord; boot laces.
Cordage weighs less than bolts, can be re-used (unlike zip-ties) and is
both strong and flexible.

I learned to love rope lashings on my 21' catamaran.
The hulls were lashed to the crossbeams.

I lash things to my kayaks' deck all the time:
surf-proof and storm proof.

My little bike bag is lashed to the seat back on my Sofrider with
a 20-year old boot lace... a lace that was retired from my mountain boot
and used to do lashing duty on my frame-pack!

-Steve
 
Those are some crazy mods,

Those are some crazy mods, Dave. You seem to want to tip the whole riding position forward (a long BB and larger rear wheel). Why would you want to do this? That would seemingly increase aerodynamic drag.
 

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
Try the heavy duty rack

If you want to put a solid bag on Quest, let me commend my heavy duty rack to you all. It will allow the bag to sit right up close to the top of the seat back right in the wind shadow. It will take a large weight. http://cruzbike.com/heavy-duty-quest-rack-creates-options

 

billyk

Guru
How would we buy the heavy-duty rack?

The rack looks good. But I don't find it on the online store (not under Quest, nor under accessories). Do we have to go to bricks and mortar online store Perth to buy it? BK
 

dave.g

Member
Poppers and Welding

Poppers are also known as press studs and snaps. I used them to hold in the edges of the bag to the back of the seat to give it a clean look. They have not been entirely successful so I am going to try larger ones.
I considered lacing the sides up with nylon cord but that would have entailed drilling two lines of holes down the sides of the seat which I didn't want to do. Maybe two strips of velcro would work. My bag setup is light and minimalist but not suitable to take much weight or volume.

As for the aluminium welding I was aware of the issues and discussed it with my respected frame-builder who did the work. He didn't think it would be a problem. It is my understanding that 7005 aluminium alloy loses around 35% of its strength upon welding but it gradually regains some of this over time without heat treatment. I judged that the frame was sufficiently robust in the first place that some loss of strength was acceptable.

Should there be any problems in the future I will regard myself to be responsible, rather than the welding!

Elliot, I like the idea of a larger 700c back wheel but that would have to be with redesigned rear forks so as to keep the geometry the same.

Dave
 

Hugh Mitenko

New Member
Quest experience- front suspension adjustment?

I have had my Quest for just about 2 weeks, and actually quite enjoyed the process of putting it together. My concern was that as a tall and heavier rider (100kg, 6'5") I might not be able to adjust the BB appropriately. As it turns out, everything is now good.

I had to adjust the bottom bracket just about as far as it would go out, and then rotated the handlebars (and the gearshifters mounted on them) to allow my longer arms to be in a more relaxed position, and happily my knees don't hit the handlebars. It is now quite comfortable and I can't see ever going back to a DF bike.

On my daily commute, I thump over a few low sloping kerbs and I am alarmed by the jolt of doing so- the last thing I want to do is bend a rim on the drive wheel. Is there any way to adjust the front suspension? I have a lot of my weight going through that front axle.
 

Robert Biegler

New Member
Attaching seat to heavy duty rack

I got my Quest yesterday and wonder how to attach the seat to the heavy duty rack. The distance between the screw holes for the struts is greater than on the standard rack. At http://cruzbike.com/heavy-duty-quest-rack-creates-options, John Tolhurst states that he drilled new holes. Is that still standard procedure?

Regards

Robert Biegler
 

Jim Parker

Cruzbike, Inc. Director
Staff member
check the download page


Hi Robert,

You will need to drill holes 23mm to the right and left of the existing holes to mount the heavy duty rack.


This template will make the job easier:
http://Yes, see http://www.cruzbike.com/sites/default/files/documentation/Quest%20rack%20mount%20drilling%20template.pdf

By the way, this document and other useful documents are downloadable from the Quest page:

Look for "download specs and brochures"

I also got your voicemail about the two 10mm cyclinders... those are spacers to use only if you elect not to use a rack. They are rarely needed.

I hope you are enjoying your new Quest.

Jim
 

Robert Biegler

New Member
Drilling, gearing

Dear Jim

Thanks for the confirmation. I drilled the seat last night, having decided that I wasn't overlooking something, that drilling really was needed.

I haven't ridden the bike yet. I wanted to fix the seat to the heavy-duty rack first, and the new holes are right in the path of the adhesive velcro strip, so I thought moving the screws if I was wrong would be a bit sticky. Today, when I'm done, it rained, and I haven't fitted mudguards yet, so I took my cargo bike to work.

Also, I can already tell I will need to swap out the rims. I thought 20" wheels would be better for me, but the 451 wheels are no good because I can't get winter tyres in that size. I can get them in 406. Seeing that I need to change rims anyway for 406 wheels, I thought I'd try the 26" wheels, in case I liked them. There is not enough clearance in the fork for winter tyres in that size, so no go, unless I keep the bike for fair weather riding only.

Speaking of winter riding, a Canadian told me that on bikes in Manitoba all cables are fully enclosed from the brake or gear lever to whatever they actuate, to prevent water from getting in and freezing. On the Quest, the cable run is open just about at the height of the front tyre, where it can spray water and grit onto the cables. Would there be a drawback in warmer climates to using the sort of cable guides where you just pull the whole thing through, and you leave it fully enclosed all the way? My Pashley cargo bike and my Brompton are both UK designed, and even their cables are fully enclosed.

The smaller wheels will also go some way towards fixing the gearing. In the last 23 years, I spent only two years in a place where 26" was low enough gearing for first gear. I need below 20", at least on a recumbent and with my knees. I am not sure I'll quite get there even with 406 wheels. I'll take the bike to a shop to find out whether I can adjust the derailleur so that there is enough clearance for something larger. If not, I may have to give up on the elliptical chain ring to fit something smaller there.

Regards

Robert Biegler
 
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