QX100 Steering Mod

[joy]

Could someone post a photo with a rider? I'd like to see where the handlebar comes in relationship to the body/arms. Thanks.

 

[Emeljay]

Pics are with my flat bars and curved bar ends to simulate road bars in threes hand positions. Note: when I recline the seat back to a lower position I also extend the slider tube out to keep the approximate position as these pics show. My replacement road bars will be about 2 inches shorter in the width. Also, forgive the Helmet hair,.
.

.

.

.

 

[ratz]

That's looks really good. A bigger person could fit that by changing out the drops to be VentureMax ones; same shape but wider.

I cut about an inch off the end of bars with that same shape to give the wrists a little more freedom of motion without hard interference.

 

[joy]

Thanks for the pics.

 

[super slim]

Pics are with my flat bars and curved bar ends to simulate road bars in threes hand positions. Note: when I recline the seat back to a lower position I also extend the slider tube out to keep the approximate position as these pics show. My replacement road bars will be about 2 inches shorter in the width. Also, forgive the Helmet hair,.
.
View attachment 4627
.
View attachment 4628
.
View attachment 4629
.
View attachment 4630

That is a great mod and a LOT cheaper than a new Woodchipper bar ($75), Shim triple Tiagra 9 speed brifter ($250), 2 Road BB7 disk brakes ($150), so $475 to change from MTB to road bars!

 

[trapdoor2]

Cool pix. At least you have hair.

I'm going to get a set of those Origin8 drops and use them for fitment on my version. Thanks!

 

[Emeljay]

To continue my testing on what I want to change I moved the brake levers to the origin8 drops, and will adjust up or down during ride testing. I will then take measurements and select handlebars, starting on the postings of handlebar mods posted on this forum...Thanks to you all for posting handlebar mods info/measurements!
.

.

.
Also I'm in the midst of having fun doing this thread's steering mod to my gold standard Cruzbike Q559 with the additions/improvements everyone has shared here! Thank you all!

 

[Emeljay]

Here is pic of current state of my Q559. I am acquiring parts and sandpaper to sand the slider tube to fit. I'm in no hurry, but really I am!? Again thanks to all who added options to this mod as I will see what parts I can acquire and what works for me.
.

.

 

[Leo]

I like this idea. But, It seems it may be too long. Perhaps it can be adjusted to a shorter length. Beyond that, can it be bolted on the steer tube without creating issues for the boom clamp? I say this because the riser tube currently is held on with boom clamp. I supposed the riser tube could be cut off just above the boom clamp, and the folding riser bolted on above the boom clamp.
Question then, who is going to sacrifice their riser tube in this experiment. For now I just lowered my handle bars to improve visibility over the cables etc., with my seat back adjusted back to 35 degrees. Also, just ordered an Adem headrest to improve neck comfort.

I think you are able to replace Riser Tube and Pivot Clamp with this standard part. Mount the existing boom onto the new clamp as the same way as it was on the Pivot Clamp. The standard telescope riser from company X is only usd70.

 

[Leo]

The Performer - Internal Cable Route Tillerset

US$70.00
Weight: 450g

Possible to replace the vertical tube with just bolt on.
I will buy a QX100 if this replacement is feasible.

1. Keep C and D, replace A and B with F and G.
2. You might need some spacers between C and G.
3. Fix E onto H.
4. Set F to the desired tilt angle and length.

I think this is a clean reversible mod with just usd70.

 

[Frisard]

Common wisdom would be that the hinge will be a weak point that will degrade and eventually fail from the MBB boom forces. And probably fail in some dramatic fashion under load. That would be my guess. I think John T wrote some thoughts along those lines a long time ago.

How do the forces transfer from the handle bar to the wheel on a qx100? As compared to the S and V. Maybe a diagram with arrows representing direction of forces would help. E.g. Do the forces transfer from handgrips through handle bar, through stem, down the riser, through the boom clamp, down the boom to MBB, down chainstay to axle, through spokes to rim, to tire, to road surface?
Thanks much.

 

[Frisard]

1. Keep C and D, replace A and B with F and G.
2. You might need some spacers between C and G.
3. Fix E onto H.
4. Set F to the desired tilt angle and length.

I think this is a clean reversible mod with just usd70.
View attachment 4874 View attachment 4875

At first look, I like this idea. However, there are two dimensions that we need: 1. The clamp of 'G' (will it clamp dirctly to the steer tube, rather than the riser. 2. The dimensions of 'D' and 'G' fitting at 'E' and 'H'.

 

[trapdoor2]

How do the forces transfer from the handle bar to the wheel on a qx100? As compared to the S and V. Maybe a diagram with arrows representing direction of forces would help. E.g. Do the forces transfer from handgrips through handle bar, through stem, down the riser, through the boom clamp, down the boom to MBB, down chainstay to axle, through spokes to rim, to tire, to road surface?
Thanks much.

The torque forces from pedaling on a Q are xferred to your hands via the headset stem. The slip joint/clamp there is the weakest link (friction is the only thing keeping the handlebars in line with the system). Forces from the road are tiny (unless you're hitting a lot of ruts, etc.)...but reaction forces from hard pedaling (pulling on the bars) are potentially quite high. Frankly (and only IMHO), if you can't overcome the friction in the stem clamp, I seriously doubt you'll break the hinge joint on the Performer (or a TerraCycle glide-flex). The forces involved aren't all that high (you're using your arms to react forces from your legs...legs will win in most people's cases). The force vectors are at very low angles (from hips to pedals to headset stem), so large input from the legs = lower reaction forces needed at the headset. Add a set of handlebars and you have even more ability to overcome those forces with your arms/hands.

I wouldn't go so far to say that "it is safe, no worries" but I intend to eventually give it a try. Neither the Performer nor the Glide-Flex were designed to react anything more than bumps and ruts, not leg or arm torque. There's no pedal forces to their stems in their targeted bikes.

 

[Leo]

The torque forces from pedaling on a Q are xferred to your hands via the headset stem. The slip joint/clamp there is the weakest link (friction is the only thing keeping the handlebars in line with the system). Forces from the road are tiny (unless you're hitting a lot of ruts, etc.)...but reaction forces from hard pedaling (pulling on the bars) are potentially quite high. Frankly (and only IMHO), if you can't overcome the friction in the stem clamp, I seriously doubt you'll break the hinge joint on the Performer (or a TerraCycle glide-flex). The forces involved aren't all that high (you're using your arms to react forces from your legs...legs will win in most people's cases). The force vectors are at very low angles (from hips to pedals to headset stem), so large input from the legs = lower reaction forces needed at the headset. Add a set of handlebars and you have even more ability to overcome those forces with your arms/hands.

I wouldn't go so far to say that "it is safe, no worries" but I intend to eventually give it a try. Neither the Performer nor the Glide-Flex were designed to react anything more than bumps and ruts, not leg or arm torque. There's no pedal forces to their stems in their targeted bikes.

You are right for the force analysis. I had a Performer recumbent before, the telescope riser is very well made and strong. Thus the weakest link in the new mechanism is the friction at clamp G/fork which is the same as of the original design.

 

[trapdoor2]

Yah, I have the very similar TerraCycle "Glide-Flex" on my Optima Baron. It is very robust and would work just as well. I think a properly designed tilting/folding slider would be a wonderful addition to the V20...but I have no plans to use anything but the factory set-up. Once I learned the "V20 egress dance", no problems.

On the Q or similar bikes (I'm going to mod a V2/k), I think a tilting/folding riser may be a 'preferred' thing...at least, in my case, it will be a 'tested' thing. Big plus, no sanding to get the telescoping tubes to work!

 

[DavidJL]

Me, I'm gonna stick with the straight tube setup. It allows me to use a normal top cap style headset, and it's a very solid front end.

 

[Leo]

Yah, I have the very similar TerraCycle "Glide-Flex" on my Optima Baron. It is very robust and would work just as well. I think a properly designed tilting/folding slider would be a wonderful addition to the V20...but I have no plans to use anything but the factory set-up. Once I learned the "V20 egress dance", no problems.

On the Q or similar bikes (I'm going to mod a V2/k), I think a tilting/folding riser may be a 'preferred' thing...at least, in my case, it will be a 'tested' thing. Big plus, no sanding to get the telescoping tubes to work!

Beside no sanding, it is still black which looks like original factory set-up and is reversible mod.
I analyzed the force diagram further, since D, F and G are mounted together with one screw at E, they only have one degree of freedom to swing up/down but not left/right. Hence, even if you have a loose clamp, the handlebars would not rock left/right when pedaling. It is not the case in the original set-up.
Hope to see your mod soon.

 

[trapdoor2]

Clamp B binds the fork headtube and stem, keeping the fork from turning independently of the handlebars and transmitting torque from the power triangle thru pivot E and via the fork/chainstay/BB. The addition of Clamp G would similarly react torsion forces from handlebar to stem...but potentially independently from Clamp B. I mean, if clamp B fails, Clamp G pulls the entire torque load...which is no longer coming from Clamp B but transmitted via the fork down at the wheels. That assumes Clamp G is binding the fork headtube at all...many headtubes are not long enough to protrude thru Clamp B. For instance, I believe my V2/k's current headtube falls into this category. I gotta get a new fork anyway...

If Clamp G fails, the handlebars become independent of the power triangle. A cross-bolt would provide a modicum of redundancy there, should one feel the need. I am guessing that the more pressing issue will be how well the fork-and-blade joint of the Performer stem handles flex loads. I would expect the failure mode there would be at the root of the blade. The TerraCycle Glide-Flex has a similar failure mode but I believe their blade is quite a bit thicker and may better react the load.

 

[Leo]

........The addition of Clamp G would similarly react torsion forces from handlebar to stem...but potentially independently from Clamp B. I mean, if clamp B fails, Clamp G pulls the entire torque load...which is no longer coming from Clamp B but transmitted via the fork down at the wheels. That assumes Clamp G is binding the fork headtube at all...many headtubes are not long enough to protrude thru Clamp B. ......

No more B to fail because we install G to replace B. Regarding the fatigue failure mode at H, we need to conduct an evaluation. As I said, I had one before, they are very strong and well built, it didn't look like anything weaker than the handlebar clamp.

 

[trapdoor2]

No more B to fail because we install G to replace B. Regarding the fatigue failure mode at H, we need to conduct an evaluation. As I said, I had one before, they are very strong and well built, it didn't look like anything weaker than the handlebar clamp.

Color me confused. How do you plan on keeping the power triangle without a connection at E (which is part of Clamp B)?

Unless...you plan on moving E to H? I would be surprised if the width of H matched the internal width of the fork @ E...but if it was close, excellent!