VenRiderGuy
Well-Known Member
Thanks.....Pretty much everyone is using SRAM Apex solid core cranks. They are very reliable for shortening. Hollow cranks can't be shorted.
Thanks.....Yes, what Ratz said.
Thanks.....Pretty much everyone is using SRAM Apex solid core cranks. They are very reliable for shortening. Hollow cranks can't be shorted.
Thanks.....Yes, what Ratz said.
You can take them to your local tool shop. It can cut and drill your cranks. That's what I did with my trainer bike's cranks. And if your local tool shop doesn't have the right taps, you can get the new holes tapped at your local bike shop, which probably has taps for fixing cranks with screwed up threads. It should be cheap and you can walk in and get it done quickly. No shipping and no waiting. You just have to be specific about where to put the holes, about the angle of the holes, and the size of the holes. It's likely that your local tool shop has never done custom cranks before. But it's not difficult.Does anyone do the crank shortening besides Bikesmith Design?
Short cranks feel better in my opinion. The smaller pedal circles feel more natural. But there is no advantage or disadvantage in the gearing because you have more than one gear. But short cranks will shift your highest and lowest gears a little in the bigger gear direction. And it will do it by a factor of the ratio of the distance your feet travel in a circle in either case. If you go from 170 mm cranks to 150 mm, the difference will be 13.3%. So your easiest gear will be 13.3% harder. So will your biggest gear though, which is a bonus on a fast bike. So you should consider getting an easier small gearing by getting a bigger large cog on the cassette. This effect is caused by the work it takes to move you and your bike a given distance compared to the distance your feet travel, which means your feet are doing more work per pedal revolution with short cranks. Which means all your gearing shifts in the harder direction. Which means you should get a bigger big cog on your cassette.The shorter cranks help with knee pain but what other pro's are there and any con's, easier or harder to pedal up hill?
Went on the longest ride so far, 20 miles give or take and seems to be getting better. Was pretty windy, at one point rolled off a hill at 30 mph with a good cross wind and bike felt good.
Well, I actually did do it (shortened the hollow core) "accidentally". I shortened then to 145. The "hollow" part is less than 1/8" at the point. I have ridden with them and don't really notice an issue, but I would still recommend the Apex solid core. The weight saving is immaterial at this point. You loose more by shortening that you do by having it hollow.Hollow cranks can't be shortened.
I had the same thing happen about 50 miles into my Vendetta experience. I got up on a rainy morning, decided to take the old RWD high racer out for my commute. Got about half a block, wobbling all over and feeling like I was completely disconnected from the bike. Turned around and coasted home, got in the car and drove that day. I've heard from a number of riders that they can flip back and forth mentally after a little practice.I by no means have would consider that I have figured out the MBB bike but today I got on my Vision RWD and could not ride it. My brain is all screwed up. I didn't relize how much I was counter steering with the pedel stroke until I got on the RWD and was constantly turning back and forth with every stroke. Was afraid to get on the road so I parked it and got back on the clone.
Just ride no hands when the kid is not looking;I heard some horror stories, so I was pleased the other day when I got on my son's bike (my old bike actually), and took off feeling stable. About 100 feet later I notice I'm swerving a bit on every stroke. It took me the rest of the block, but with some concentration on not moving my arms I got back to riding pretty smoothly. Never felt nervous, just had a bit of unneeded motion for awhile.