Riding a Cruzbike.

Trichodoc

New Member
My concern is getting my feet out of the clips if I lose my balance, which happens especially at slower speeds esp going up hill. Any suggestions for best type of clips?
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
I use Shimano MTB clips, set on the weakest setting and it is 2nd nature now to unclip quickly. You learn to start predicting things and keeping a closer eye on what's happening around you due to the higher speeds compared with road bikes.
 

Henri

scatter brain
Magped. They are magnetic instead of some kind of latch. You don't need to twist your foot, but pivot it off. Happens automatically, when you try to move your foot sideways. Available ase pure magnetic or with a platform, so you can use it with normal shoes. Also platform with a magnet only on one side, so you can even use a shoe with the magnetic plate on the other side and have no retention.
The plates on the shoe are also just a plate of metal, that doesn't stick out a lot and barely wears out, as it does not need to retain a finely defined shape.
 

Boreen bimbler

Well-Known Member
My concern is getting my feet out of the clips if I lose my balance, which happens especially at slower speeds esp going up hill. Any suggestions for best type of clips?
I use shimano mtb style mainly because you can walk in them. Also down to the fact I always had multiple bikes and didn't want different shoes.
If you are used to being clipped in it's not any different on a CB really. Just set them as loose as possible if your a bit worried. But I found they help with balance anyway.
 

Chef-boy-arri

New Member
I’ve landed on - and am very happy with - my Crank Bros shoes and Stamp pedals. They grip great and the shoe soles are rigid enough to provide comfortable contact regardless of the distance I travel. And best of all- it’s really nice to never have to unclip AND have a shoe that’s easy to walk in.
 

Henri

scatter brain
For non-retention pedals my choice is always the whole-foot-design of the Catalyst Pedals by Pedaling Innovation, but that wasn't the question.
 

Doccus

Member
Henri,
I have and like the Catalyst Pedals. Have you used clip-ins? I was planning on trying them to see if handling was improved with them. Also wondering if for short steep hills the ability to push and pull on pedals would help. I appreciate any input.

Thanks.
 

Maverick1

Member
How in the world is it possible to ride a Cruzbike with no hands when you have
pedal induced steering due to the front wheel drive nature of the bicycle?
There has to be some sort of input from the non-dominant peddling leg.
I can pedal with no hands on my rear wheel drive Bacchetta Giro 26 recumbent, although it's not something I do on a regular basis.
 

Henri

scatter brain
Henri,
I have and like the Catalyst Pedals. Have you used clip-ins? I was planning on trying them to see if handling was improved with them. Also wondering if for short steep hills the ability to push and pull on pedals would help. I appreciate any input.

Thanks.
I have used latch based retention pedals (SPD) only for a short while, before my Cruzebike. I have used Magpeds and Catalysts on the Cruzbike and all my other recumbents. I am currently only using Catalysts in the even larger version and not missing retention systems. (Might miss something with normal flat pedals.) I haven't measured for a possible difference in power, yet. I'll try retention systems again, when my custom 3D printed shoes from Hezo arrive.
But I estimate a possible power transfer on ¾ of the rotation on each foot, because of the grippy pedals and the ability to angle the foot in midfoot position. With my badly fitting SPD shoes I had a similar gap, because I would get bad chafing, if I powered the full rotation. Maybe the Hezo shoes will fix that.
 

Henri

scatter brain
How in the world is it possible to ride a Cruzbike with no hands when you have
pedal induced steering due to the front wheel drive nature of the bicycle?
There has to be some sort of input from the non-dominant peddling leg.
I can pedal with no hands on my rear wheel drive Bacchetta Giro 26 recumbent, although it's not something I do on a regular basis.
With Flevo Bike or Python riding hands free is the main way. But those might put more emphasis on weight shifting instead of using your feet to steer. Anyway you will learn to create a sideways force with your feet that counteracts the unwanted effect from pushing the pedal and to oscillate so that you ride a wavy line that generally goes to the right direction. Balancing a twowheeler always consists of riding small curves, where you balance the curves radius with your tilt, depending on speed. Just small adjustments to the rhythm can make the wavy line a series of balancing curves. It's easier to ride hands free while pedaling than to coast handsfree.
I managed to ride someone else's Flevo Bike a bit in a matter of minutes. Managed to ride my V20c hands free on straight roads a bit in a matter of months with little practice aimed for that goal specifically. So even if my explanations don't work, you can just believe my experience that it's possible. The pro's can even start without hands. (Demonstrated on an S40, I think?) And there's also a video of someone cruising a park handsfree on a T50 or Q45.
 

castlerobber

Zen MBB Master
How in the world is it possible to ride a Cruzbike with no hands when you have
pedal induced steering due to the front wheel drive nature of the bicycle?
There has to be some sort of input from the non-dominant peddling leg.
I can pedal with no hands on my rear wheel drive Bacchetta Giro 26 recumbent, although it's not something I do on a regular basis.
I can ride both my S30 and my Q45 no-hands for short distances. I had about 3,000 miles on Cruzbikes (Quest and Silvio) before I even thought about trying it.

I couldn't tell you how I do it, but I do it. In fact, I had to distract myself from thinking about how I was doing it at first, and just let it happen. I try to practice for a minute or so every ride if conditions permit.

Remember, people have claimed bumblebees shouldn't be able to fly, either, but here we are. ;)
 

IyhelM

Létrange MBB
I can ride most of my daily ride to the bakery without hands; it’s a 12 km ride without much elevation (+/-2% slopes), just a very short 6ish% climb to get back to my street; I only have to use the brakes a the 3 stop signs (and pull myself up to get a better view) and touch the shifters once in a while to adjust the gearing. There are some tight corners but without much traffic so my trajectory can be wide.
I can do it with clipless or flat pedals.
I won’t break any speed records riding like this but cruising around 15 mph is easy.
I usually get my hands back on the bars if I go over 25 mph, not that it’s getting wobbly but just in case…
It’s very convenient in winter, you can hide your hands under your armpits for warmth!
It’s also a neat trick to impress df riders on the flats during brevets.

It took me close to 18 months with the Vendetta to start riding with no hands, more by chance than by design. When I bought the Silvio a little while later I could immediately ride no hands thanks to the shorter chainstay and lighter front triangle weight.
And I definitely feel more comfortable riding hands free on a CB than on any DF bike, especially on upward slopes - but that is also because I’ve never spent as much time on a df as I now do on my Cruzbikes!
 
I seem to be the oddball here. I'm using crank bros candy pedals. I switched from Shimano SPDs to the CB because they provide a little more platform and that felt better. Clip out of the SPD on low setting seems about the same as the CB release. I have not had an issue clipping out of either one.
 

Maverick1

Member
I use Shimano SPD's on all my bikes, so all I need is one pair of biking shoes.
Makes life a little easier.
Riders on this forum guessed that my current seat on my Bacchetta is around a 30° degree angle.
Just curious how easy/difficult transitioning to a V20 which has a 20° degree seat angle would be for me?
Also, since you are positioned in the seat that much lower/reclined, did it cause any of you any neck pain at all/first, and is the use of a headrest suggested or mandatory on the V20?
Thanks.
 

Henri

scatter brain
Just curious how easy/difficult transitioning to a V20 which has a 20° degree seat angle would be for me?
That depends on you. For me it was the smalles part. But I started with the original headrest fully pushed in, so it really lifted my shoulders.


is the use of a headrest suggested or mandatory on the V20?
Depends on your neck training and ride length. Also if you are using the original seat or one with raised shoulders. Road conditions and traffic situation will surely ba a factor as well.
 

IyhelM

Létrange MBB
For me the lower limit for a neckrest seems to be around 30º with a flat seat. Also as Henri said, neck fatigue will depend a lot of the shape of the top of the seat.

Consider that it may take you a few hundred miles to find the right position, on the V I ended up far further down the seat than at the beginning, with a more laid down position and I took me months before finding a comfortable setup for the headrest; so take the necessary time to adjust it properly for each ride whenever you change the handlebar angle or boom length for instance.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
I tried the original Suspension Headrest but now I use the Performance Adjustable Headrest. I customized mine with a small curved piece of plastic that I put 1cm thick foam on it and the pad is held in place with velcro. Then I cut a cheap neoprene Koozie to slide over it. It's easy to adjust on the fly, easy to clean, and kind of cradles my head at the base of my skull so it doesn't sway left and right.
Screen Shot 2025-08-21 at 10.26.51.png



Initially it was difficult to get my head tilt right so that it was comfortable, provided good visibility while wearing sunglasses and my customized helmet with magnetized visors. You see, in the beginning my head was tilted quite far back and while riding bugs and other airborne stuff had a tendency to fly exactly under my sunglasses and hit me right in the eyes. So, I had to find sunglasses that sat as low as possible on my cheek bones. Alpina Twist 5 sunglasses have the adjustability to do that. At about the same time, and taking the idea from the Giro Air Attack helmet of magnetized visors, I drilled 3 holes in my Limar helmets to install magnets. Of course Giro Air Attack shields became super expensive and almost impossible to find so I found SHOEI CJ-3 shields to be a great replacement. I installed 3 magnets in those and combined with the Alpina Twist 5 sunglasses I rarely get anything in my eyes now.

Since my current Limar helmet is getting old I might need to replace it soon. I have been kicking around the idea of getting a skydiving helmet for a while and this Bonehead Aero looks nice IMO. Fogging and even simple breathing while cycling would have to be addressed but I think those issue could be overcome.
bonehead_aero_10.jpg
 
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