Hi RobertWe get the trade
Hi Robert
We get the trade offs; it's just for some of us the old non pressfit is highly non-optimal; I'll elaborate not to be argumentative but more to share some examples of why it's a problem some of us would like to retro-fix.
To be clear to others following on along this a non-issue on my Vendetta; on the Vendetta 2.0 with a little caution the dropout and derailluer stay put until the screwer is back in. My references are all Silvio 2.x specific, but I've never worked on a V1. So if you have a Vendetta and never have a problem I'm not surprised and I would agree with you if you said so.
So
In our basement I have to swap out two Silvios onto and off of the Kickr each day if we want to train on them. I specifically consumed a Quest Frame to leave on the Kickr because it's so impractical to do the Silvios daily. That's an extreme case but it does highlight the problem; I'm seriously considering a second Kickr to solve that problem. That should illusratre that I have to be pretty annoyed to consider such an extreme solution but the Kickr is cheaper than the extra consumed Quest frame. My other problem would be that because it's loose; it eats away at the edge of the bracket over time from just the act of installing the wheel or removing the wheel while you try to get everything together.
It should also be noted that when a Di2 derailuer falls out; it hangs from the Electric wires. 90% of the time that wire pops out due to chain force and derailluer weight. This is bad for two reasons; it's going to cause that connector to fail or short out; and there's a high degree of chance that dirt or water could get in the port. If that happens best case you are stranded on the side of the road with no shifting. Worst case you are replacing a $190 component. Now I know the 2.0 bike wasn't' designed for Di2. I'm more pointing that out for completeness of the problem set.
In the more general sense, Definitely those cage locks help. Unfortunately they don't offer those on Di2 or most of the other road components. Probably the best recommendation is to use a type 2 if it works for anyone specing from scratch. Hopefully cage locks will become the wave of the future.
For the rest of use the reality is that in a ditch on the side of the road is the worst possible time to have that hanger thing fall out, if it was optimal all other bikes would not have it bolted to the frame and nor would the Quest. So time has pointed us to the optimal setup. In the grass we are going to turn the bike upside down in most cases. From my experience the in the ditch scenario is so different from working on the bike in a bike stand (where I never have a problem). I have never been calm nor paitent changing a tire in a ditch. Anyone that is; I admire you, I'm an immature 10 year old when it happens to me.... Each time I have changed the wheel without breaking the chain the the derailluer would up with a serpentine twist in it that's annoying as heck in the shop to sort out; on the side of the road it's a review of words I don't teach my kids. Putting the derailleur in the 11T gear obviously makes it easier. But dusty, sweaty, and standing in 90F sun it's the biggest frustration possible.
I suspect that there is a small group of us that are riding 3000+ outdoor miles a year that would love that upgrade if it fit the frames. I also suspect that most of us would be completely content to give you our names for a list and when you do the next production run you just ordered extra. That way you don't have to dig into your spares inventory for an unexpected supply need. Fixing it in 10 months is better than never fixing it. We can call this the Horray club; because I'm pretty sure everyone in that group cheers out loud when they get the wheel changed without incident.
Personally to me it's worth $100 to fix that per bike I'm not sure how others feel but it's personally that important as all the items I can damage when it falls out cost that or more.
In the meantime I'm carrying; a ChainBreaker; spare masterlink; and I'll be Gorilla Gluing them in place again this spring. Apparently if you are noob (this noob raises his hand) and remove the wheel in the wrong gear occasionally the gorrilla glue isn't quite strong enough; if it lets go (Rashin' fashin' Rick Rastardly!)
That and I really would like to teach the wife how to change her own wheel; given the miles she's logged training; I'm not sure I want to be on the receiving end of her swearing like a sailor in the ditch when it takes me 45 minutes to the spot of her breakdown.... and we all know when Mommy's not happy daddy has to do a 30 minute post pleading for help
Ok so that's that; Please understand I'm smiling typing this it's meant as a constructive counter point; it bugs me; not enough to sell the bike and get a S30 (just not a white bike guy), but annoying enough to move enough to take the time to plead for a better fix.