S40 THOR SEAT MODIFICATION

[Leif]

I was wondering if anyone can describe how much of the upper "wings" that secure the back of the seat need to be modified/removed to allow the Thor seat installation.
I gather from related posts that the bottom wings probably just need additional holes drilled in them but I'm not clear what the fate of the uppers is.
Do they just need a trim? Do the the existing holes stay intact? Can I put back the original Cruzbike seat if need be?
My Thor seat arrived yesterday and I'm still on the fence about swapping it out for the original (which really isn't so bad). I promise to post pics if I eventually do!

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

-Leif

 

[ratz]

I was wondering if anyone can describe how much of the upper "wings" that secure the back of the seat need to be modified/removed to allow the Thor seat installation.
I gather from related posts that the bottom wings probably just need additional holes drilled in them but I'm not clear what the fate of the uppers is.
Do they just need a trim? Do the the existing holes stay intact? Can I put back the original Cruzbike seat if need be?
My Thor seat arrived yesterday and I'm still on the fence about swapping it out for the original (which really isn't so bad). I promise to post pics if I eventually do!

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

-Leif

I can't tell you because all my frame pre-date the wings. My honest opinion is just completely remove them. While they let you bolt down the seat completely; all the rest of us are riding old bikes without them and just the velcro does fine. All the RAAM bike had wings. I didn't install the rear bolts on any of them; as it slows down removing the seat to fix stuff. Those bikes rode on the back of trucks pacific to Atlantic and no seat ever flew off the bike, broke or otherwise came loose.

The main advantage of the wings is that you can lift the bike by the back of the seat pan if it's bolted. but there are plenty of other places to life the bike.

 

[Doug Kline]

For a large Thor Easy GS seat I had to trim off a lot of the upper tabs. I then used long thin screws to attach since it was easier to thread on the locking nut. The thin screws require a smaller hole also. In the end it was close to the weld so the nuts are snugged against the washers, but not completely flat against the tab. It’s been completely solid over several thousand miles.

You’ll have to measure the width between the ribs to see how much to trim off.

On the front tabs, I trimmed off more than was needed and used a couple rubber washers as spacers. It might be possible to not cut these and just use spacers. I’d try that first.

If you trim your tabs there would still be enough to reattach the stock seat, but you’d have to move the holes over.




Upper tabs are a tight fit with a Large Thor Easy GS.


I trimmed too much off the lower tabs and might have gotten away with just using rubber washer spacers.

 

[Doug Kline]

Everyone’s fit is different, but one thing I’ve noticed with the Thor Easy GS seat is it supports my shoulders nicely and puts my head in a more vertical position. I continue to ride it without a headrest. Never missed it. And it gives me a good ability to look around. The longest I’ve ridden it is a English century, but I’ve done several including today.

And....A large carbon Thor Easy GS with matching Ventisit Comfort pad is about 100 grams lighter than the stock setup with headrest.

 

[Leif]

I can't tell you because all my frame pre-date the wings. My honest opinion is just completely remove them. While they let you bolt down the seat completely; all the rest of us are riding old bikes without them and just the velcro does fine. All the RAAM bike had wings. I didn't install the rear bolts on any of them; as it slows down removing the seat to fix stuff. Those bikes rode on the back of trucks pacific to Atlantic and no seat ever flew off the bike, broke or otherwise came loose.

The main advantage of the wings is that you can lift the bike by the back of the seat pan if it's bolted. but there are plenty of other places to life the bike.

Thanks for the info!

I didn't know the upper wings are a recent addition to the CB frame, but your explanation makes a lot of sense. If all I have to do is get used to not lifting the bike by the back of the seat, that's great!
-Leif

 

[Leif]

For a large Thor Easy GS seat I had to trim off a lot of the upper tabs. I then used long thin screws to attach since it was easier to thread on the locking nut. The thin screws require a smaller hole also. In the end it was close to the weld so the nuts are snugged against the washers, but not completely flat against the tab. It’s been completely solid over several thousand miles.

You’ll have to measure the width between the ribs to see how much to trim off.

On the front tabs, I trimmed off more than was needed and used a couple rubber washers as spacers. It might be possible to not cut these and just use spacers. I’d try that first.

If you trim your tabs there would still be enough to reattach the stock seat, but you’d have to move the holes over.

View attachment 6013


Upper tabs are a tight fit with a Large Thor Easy GS.
View attachment 6014

I trimmed too much off the lower tabs and might have gotten away with just using rubber washer spacers.
View attachment 6015

Wow! Very helpful pics and detailed explanation! Exactly show what I need to know.
Thanks so much for posting... and so quickly too.

Love this forum!!!

-Leif

 

[Doug Kline]

I didn't know the upper wings are a recent addition to the CB frame, but your explanation makes a lot of sense. If all I have to do is get used to not lifting the bike by the back of the seat, that's great!

But you do have tabs now, so you might as well use them.

 

[tiltmaniac]

I (still) highly recommend using the moldable plastic stuff I mentioned in my seat mounting description. It makes making shims for the aftermarket seats super easy and effective