Seat Angle on the Avalon....... opinions please.

[buyagain]

I had to reverse the steel seat-mount because of natural rise in the Avalon's cross bar. Even then the front of the seat-pan appears too high. But then again maybe not.... but your opinions are welcome.

I could possibly get a little more drop on the backrest too. comments welcome.
The second picture is an attempt to show the mountings and attachments.

 

[JonB]

buyagain wrote: I had to reverse the steel seat-mount because of natural rise in the Avalon's cross bar. Even then the front of the seat-pan appears too high. But then again maybe not.... but your opinions are welcome.

My opinion is that i think that the top of the backrest will bend when it is unsupported as it is now. I would add something on the back from the bottom to the top that can add stiffness. Maybe a square aluminium profile?

 

[teacherbill]

buyagain wrote: I had to reverse the steel seat-mount because of natural rise in the Avalon's cross bar. Even then the front of the seat-pan appears too high. But then again maybe not.... but your opinions are welcome.

I could possibly get a little more drop on the backrest too. comments welcome.
The second picture is an attempt to show the mountings and attachments.[attachment]angleone.jpg[/IMG]

I like it! You will just have to learn to ride and not fall asleep in the process. I find my mind wandering and slowly going blank after about two hours in the saddle with my laid back mongoose.

It looks good, the way I imagined it while looking at in the store. After you get the hang of it the boys at work will forget that it is a "girl's" frame.

 

[John Tolhurst]

You have supported the seat back on the seat rails as per normal so that would be fine.

Try moving the seat pan backwards as far as you can with respect to the seat mount, that alters the angle of the seat pan. Have a look at sigma to see how that solves a similar (but less extreme) situation. http://www.sigmabike.com/

 

[John Tolhurst]

 

[defjack]

I would put it together like that for now.You can change the seat angle later by putting a spacer between the seat and bracket in the back. Jack

 

[buyagain]

Thanks for the diagram and opinion, johntolhurst.
Defjack; cant you tell yet, Its taking me for ever to get this done. LOL PS. I've not forgotten your handlebar suggestion.
JonB you might be the only one that noticed, perhaps, that I lowered the screw points 2 inches to aid an increased backrest angle. The spring metal bracing goes much higher on the back, however, than shown on the photo.

I get this mental picture of Teacherbill gliding over the next hill humming to himself, "I go where the monqoose goes... you go where the monqoose goes." Just as he disapears over the hill we get this horrible scraping sound. LOL Teacherbill you need a "Goosemon" not a Mongoose. LOL
Back to business;

The angle on the seat pan causes it to gouge into the back of my legs when my feet are at rest on the ground. I find this intolerable on the backs of my legs. I can't help but think that finding way to bolt the bottom shell of a "big fat conventional seat" right flat down against the cross-piece would solve this.

The other solution, as DFJack mentioned, is to raise the back of the seat-pan to decrease this angle. My only quip about this idea is that is gives up some of the low center-of-gravity offed by the cross-piece.
Maybe that's not as important as I think? The net higher seat is what I mean.

Regards

Bob

 

[defjack]

When you do a kit you need to be flexible. If my bike hurts me somewhere I change that. Im thinking raising the seat base will also rake the seat back some. My seat is 26 in high and is just right. Jack

 

[teacherbill]

defjack wrote: When you do a kit you need to be flexible. If my bike hurts me somewhere I change that. Im thinking raising the seat base will also rake the seat back some. My seat is 26 in high and is just right. Jack

Seat bottom at 26 inches, you might get a nose bleed...... I guess that is better than a knee or shin bleed.

 

[buyagain]

Are we talking 26" to the bottom or the top of the back of the seat-pan? I guess you can add another inch for the cushion too, right?



No one digging my conventional fat seat idea, right?

 

[defjack]

Back of seat pan.The cushion gets compressed so I dont use that measurment. I try to make the difference between front and back of seat pan 4-5 inches. Jack

 

[teacherbill]

buyagain wrote: Are we talking 26" to the bottom or the top of the back of the seat-pan? I guess you can add another inch for the cushion too, right?



No one digging my conventional fat seat idea, right?

On my MONGOOSE conversion, I have taken the cushions and velcro strips off and am cruzing on bare metal. Either I am impervious to pain, but I don't feel any discomfort after riding for 3 to 4 hours. I will confess that during those rides I try to visit a mini-market about every hour ..... keeps me from napping as I ride.

 

[Doug Burton]

Not bad at all, Bob...

One option you have is to shorten the seat post stub above where the shock mount is welded on. Leave enough tube to accept the seatpost clamp, and make sure the compression slot is at least an inch deep in the remaining seat tube. This will allow ou to slide the seat back a little without losing the seat recline completely.

You can also bend the seat tube, but you know that already...

Very nice bike.

Best,

Doug