SRAM eTap and Availability

cruzKurt

Guru
I am considering upgrading to an SRAM eTap on my v20c. I currently run 2x11 and have mechanical disc brakes.

Seems not a lot of resellers or at least easily findable that are selling these group sets. Anyone got a go to online resource?

Also, I am unclear if I need a rim brake set and then just use those brifters on my mechanical disc brakes. Seems a lot of stuff I am finding is either HRD or Rim Brake.

Thanks
Kurt

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chicorider

Zen MBB Master
I have bought groupsets at good prices from Merlin Cycles the the U.K. They also have good deals on tires. Stuff tends to arrive in about a week and a half, maybe two weeks.


I'm fairly sure that the newer electric shifting groups are all hydraulic brakes now.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Hey Kurt,

You'll want to read my upcoming diary posts. The bikes are built, and we completed the test run this weekend; the only hold-up writing all the articles is all the photo editing because the lightbox I have these days sucks. I don't think you could get me back on a 2x

Here's the sneak peak.

1) Finding anything in electronic from SRAM for 2x11 is impossible; it's just not out there, and when it is, it's stupidly expensive and incompatible. I wasted 2 months on that research trying to find a good price; outside of used, it's just not there. Di2 there's more but you have to use the old Gen again and that's wires everywhere. The new stuff with 2 wires on from battery to FD and FD to RD is 12 speed only. To get a 2x11 It's about $2000. The Gen1 unicorn brifters are easy enough to find, but the RD and FD for 11 speed are selling used 1.5 times the price of new 2x12 stuff.

2) You can get 12 sprocket cassettes for Hyperglide from Shimano that will work on your wheels for about $50, or on most wheels' change the free hub to SRAM XD/XDR for about $35 to get access to more 12-speed cassettes. I did both routes in my testing, and it worked equally well.

3) If you want to avoid learning hydraulic and brake bleeding, you will have to buy SRAM Force or Red to get cable pull, and you are shoved into the premium price.

If you want cable then You can get them here:
$496 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/sram-force-etap-axs-shift-brake-lever-set-left-rig.html.
$150 for the 12 speed cassette conversion

Those will work with ANY of the Derailleurs (front and rear) that are AXS compatible, including apex, rival, force, red, or the eagle lineup. My daughter's DF got those because I had rim brake carbon wheels for her, and that was the cheapest way to get her onto electric shifting and carbon wheels only was worth it because wheels expensive :)

Budget derailleurs to go with Force Etap Cable
$195 https://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-rival-axs-front-derailleur
$300 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/sram-rival-xplr-etap-axs-rear-derailleur-speed-12.html

Force Derailleurs derailleurs to go with Force Etap Cable
$377 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/rear-derailleur-force-xplr-axs-d2-12-speed-unicorn.html
$243 (on sale $194) https://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-force-etap-axs-front-derailleur

So $1141 or $1256 I wouldn't not recommend an apex RD on a V20C; I put on on the Quest and it not good at shifting under load.


Now, back to the diary and hydraulic....
Do you know what gear range you need?
If you go hydralic, these are your price points.

Flatlander groupset 1x12
$899 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/c-sram-apex-axs-44t-drivetrain-kit-includes-shifte.html

Billy Goat group 1x12 (it's a 52T. Ignore the URL error)
$1099 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/copy-of-c-sram-apex-axs-44t-drivetrain-kit-include.html

Both have cranks you probably don't want but could sell.

Build your own 1x12
$399 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/sram-apex-axs-etap-shift-brake-lever-and-hydraulic.html
$390 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/rear-derailleur-gx1-eagle-axs-12-speed-lunar-max-5.html
$200 for cassette or cassette and freehub
Total $989

Build your own 2x12
$399 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/sram-apex-axs-etap-shift-brake-lever-and-hydraulic.html
$195 https://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-rival-axs-front-derailleur
$275 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/...r-derailleur-12-speed-44t-ma.html?id=96285181
$92 https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Ultegra-CS-R8100-12-Speed-Cassette/dp/B09YJ4LNHX?th=1&psc=1
Total $961

twohoosiers Discount code: RideWithFreedom10


So why all that info: Here's what I found. SRAM Eagle GX 1x12 + Apex Brifters shifts better than SRAM RED 2x12 ever did

My recommendations are going to be this going forward:
1. APEX HRD Brifters + Eagle GX AXS RD and run 1x12
2. TRP Hylex Brakes or TRP TT Hydro + Thumb Paddle AXS Shifter + Eagle GX AXS RD 1x12
3. TRP/Orgin8 cable pull brake levers + TRP HY/RD road hydraulic + Thumb Paddle AXS Shifter + Eagle GX AXS RD 1x12
 
I should have brought my V20c in to the Cruzbike booth at Bike Con for you to see.

I’m very happy with my 1x system:
SRAM Eagle 10-52 cassette on an XD hub
Eagle XX1 AXS rear derailleur
AXS Hydraulic brifters
Rotor crank system
YBN chains (waxed, of course)

You can still retain your current brakes and use SRAM’s Blips for shifting.

If I was certain my trainer-bound V20 would never see the road again I’d sell the eTap 2x11 from it. (It’s a fabulous system)
 

xtalbike

Active Member
Seems to be available here: https://playtristore.com/products/s...FM88bbje-NcHWtBE3PQz2KpODqtBXnThoCBm4QAvD_BwE

I did exactly this upgrade this Spring and am very happy with it as long as I don't look at my bank account. These brifters work fine with the mechanical disk brakes on the V20c.

I decided not to mess around with any compatibility issues (after I did mess around and got burned) so I switched the whole drivetrain including crank and bottom bracket.

This BB worked in the V20c: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WMFNK35/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1.

I got a 46/33 165mm Force DUB Crankset (https://www.coloradocyclist.com/sram-crankset-force-d1-dub-gloss-165-46-33-bb-not-included).

I used the SRAM flat-top chain and a SRAM cassette. With the long chain stays I have I had to use a bit more than one chain.

One thing to consider is there are two versions of the Force eTap 12 sp rear derailleur, one for 33 tooth max and one for 36 tooth max. I actually swapped out (at more expense) the 33T max for a 36T max and bought a Rival 10-36 cassette (comparatively inexpensive) which made me happy on my 150 mile 10000 ft day in August and I think will make me at least less miserable on an upcoming ride that includes a 19% segment. Might have been better to try to get a 36T max rear derailleur in the first place...
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master

cruzKurt

Guru
I should have brought my V20c in to the Cruzbike booth at Bike Con for you to see.

I’m very happy with my 1x system:
SRAM Eagle 10-52 cassette on an XD hub
Eagle XX1 AXS rear derailleur
AXS Hydraulic brifters
Rotor crank system
YBN chains (waxed, of course)

You can still retain your current brakes and use SRAM’s Blips for shifting.

If I was certain my trainer-bound V20 would never see the road again I’d sell the eTap 2x11 from it. (It’s a fabulous system)
So you are doing a 1x eTap, I have been wanting to do a 1x system, I ride on flat roads. I have 50/34 & 11-32 cassette. I run out gear on the 34 tooth, So your setup seems like it would fill that gap quite nicely. I assume an XD hub would fit on my existing hub.

What size chain ring do you have up front? @Mathew Fy
 
Last edited:
What size chain ring do you have up front?
46, gives me 22.9-129.5 gear-inches. Chain fits out of the box without needing to add additional links. You’ve seen my Strava, this gearing works for whatever I tackle. Limited by wheel slip or running out of stamina.
 

cruzKurt

Guru
Hey Kurt,

You'll want to read my upcoming diary posts. The bikes are built, and we completed the test run this weekend; the only hold-up writing all the articles is all the photo editing because the lightbox I have these days sucks. I don't think you could get me back on a 2x

Here's the sneak peak.

1) Finding anything in electronic from SRAM for 2x11 is impossible; it's just not out there, and when it is, it's stupidly expensive and incompatible. I wasted 2 months on that research trying to find a good price; outside of used, it's just not there. Di2 there's more but you have to use the old Gen again and that's wires everywhere. The new stuff with 2 wires on from battery to FD and FD to RD is 12 speed only. To get a 2x11 It's about $2000. The Gen1 unicorn brifters are easy enough to find, but the RD and FD for 11 speed are selling used 1.5 times the price of new 2x12 stuff.

2) You can get 12 sprocket cassettes for Hyperglide from Shimano that will work on your wheels for about $50, or on most wheels' change the free hub to SRAM XD/XDR for about $35 to get access to more 12-speed cassettes. I did both routes in my testing, and it worked equally well.

3) If you want to avoid learning hydraulic and brake bleeding, you will have to buy SRAM Force or Red to get cable pull, and you are shoved into the premium price.

If you want cable then You can get them here:
$496 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/sram-force-etap-axs-shift-brake-lever-set-left-rig.html.
$150 for the 12 speed cassette conversion

Those will work with ANY of the Derailleurs (front and rear) that are AXS compatible, including apex, rival, force, red, or the eagle lineup. My daughter's DF got those because I had rim brake carbon wheels for her, and that was the cheapest way to get her onto electric shifting and carbon wheels only was worth it because wheels expensive :)

Budget derailleurs to go with Force Etap Cable
$195 https://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-rival-axs-front-derailleur
$300 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/sram-rival-xplr-etap-axs-rear-derailleur-speed-12.html

Force Derailleurs derailleurs to go with Force Etap Cable
$377 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/rear-derailleur-force-xplr-axs-d2-12-speed-unicorn.html
$243 (on sale $194) https://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-force-etap-axs-front-derailleur

So $1141 or $1256 I wouldn't not recommend an apex RD on a V20C; I put on on the Quest and it not good at shifting under load.


Now, back to the diary and hydraulic....
Do you know what gear range you need?
If you go hydralic, these are your price points.

Flatlander groupset 1x12
$899 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/c-sram-apex-axs-44t-drivetrain-kit-includes-shifte.html

Billy Goat group 1x12 (it's a 52T. Ignore the URL error)
$1099 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/copy-of-c-sram-apex-axs-44t-drivetrain-kit-include.html

Both have cranks you probably don't want but could sell.

Build your own 1x12
$399 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/sram-apex-axs-etap-shift-brake-lever-and-hydraulic.html
$390 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/rear-derailleur-gx1-eagle-axs-12-speed-lunar-max-5.html
$200 for cassette or cassette and freehub
Total $989

Build your own 2x12
$399 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/sram-apex-axs-etap-shift-brake-lever-and-hydraulic.html
$195 https://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-rival-axs-front-derailleur
$275 https://www.twohoosierscyclery.com/...r-derailleur-12-speed-44t-ma.html?id=96285181
$92 https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Ultegra-CS-R8100-12-Speed-Cassette/dp/B09YJ4LNHX?th=1&psc=1
Total $961

twohoosiers Discount code: RideWithFreedom10


So why all that info: Here's what I found. SRAM Eagle GX 1x12 + Apex Brifters shifts better than SRAM RED 2x12 ever did

My recommendations are going to be this going forward:
1. APEX HRD Brifters + Eagle GX AXS RD and run 1x12
2. TRP Hylex Brakes or TRP TT Hydro + Thumb Paddle AXS Shifter + Eagle GX AXS RD 1x12
3. TRP/Orgin8 cable pull brake levers + TRP HY/RD road hydraulic + Thumb Paddle AXS Shifter + Eagle GX AXS RD 1x12
So I think I am going to go with a 1x12 system. I have 145 cranks on a double chain ring, I can get a single 46t chain ring for upfront.

I ride where it is basically flat. I spend all my time (after starting out) on the 50t chain ring 3-5 steps down from biggest cassette. So I am normally almost always cruising on the 50/22, 50/19, 50/17 combinations. 2.3, 2.6 & 2.9 ratios respectively. So if I go with a 1x12 with a 46t up front, I will be mid range for say a 10-50 cassette in the rear with a lot of room to spare on the high end and ending up with more gear than my current setup.

Thanks for your detailed explanation. Where do you post these "diary posts" so I can check them out.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
So I think I am going to go with a 1x12 system. I have 145 cranks on a double chain ring, I can get a single 46t chain ring for upfront.

I ride where it is basically flat. I spend all my time (after starting out) on the 50t chain ring 3-5 steps down from biggest cassette. So I am normally almost always cruising on the 50/22, 50/19, 50/17 combinations. 2.3, 2.6 & 2.9 ratios respectively. So if I go with a 1x12 with a 46t up front, I will be mid range for say a 10-50 cassette in the rear with a lot of room to spare on the high end and ending up with more gear than my current setup.

Thanks for your detailed explanation. Where do you post these "diary posts" so I can check them out.
The photo build diary is in progress here: https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/v20c-build-diary-2023-edition.15301/
The parts design thread is over here: https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/...cts-from-the-now-a-v20c-design-journal.15224/

on the photo build, I am up to brake installation. Haven't done gearing yet, but that's all discussed in the design thread. Since the bikes are done, and it just takes forever to do the write-ups, I can report: (1) Eagle GX AXS might be the best of all the SRAM derailleurs (it and the XPLR Apex, are the newest product). It shifts like garbage on the bike stand; because it's designed to shift under load; on the road, it's butter-perfect; shockingly so. and you can hit it with a hammer. I would recommend starting with it for a 1x12 system. Then you just need to pick your 12spd cassette; and free hub. After that, pick your braking. Do you want Cable, or Cable+Hydraulic, or Full Hydraulic? If you are not going full hydraulic, then I would go with the button shifter ($150) and forgo brifters and do something with optimized brake levers for your preferred handlebars.

By the end of the weekend, I should have the photo journal through the hydraulic brake install and bleed write-up. That should tell most people the answer to the question do I personally want to bother with those things?
 

cruzKurt

Guru
......... Do you want Cable, or Cable+Hydraulic, or Full Hydraulic? If you are not going full hydraulic, then I would go with the button shifter ($150) and forgo brifters and do something with optimized brake levers for your preferred handlebars.
I think I will stay mechanical with a new set of brifters that you linked before, then a nice RD, new cassette and XD driver. Get a single chain ring for up front and I should be OK.
 
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