SRAM Rival YAW front mech woes continue!

[jond]

This SRAM YAW brifter thing is clearly over my head, so I'm taking it in to the LBS for evaluation. Robert has chimed in with support so there could potentially be a happy ending to my woes. Crossing my fingers now.

I’ve got Sram yaw and shimano both work as well with maybe Sram smoother. Never drop chains 53 and 52 big rings.
You must use inline tensioner. The cable needs to be taught not loose so the slightest brifter movement results in mech movement. Best wishes.

 

[cpml123]

I’ve got Sram yaw and shimano both work as well with maybe Sram smoother. Never drop chains 53 and 52 big rings.
You must use inline tensioner. The cable needs to be taught not loose so the slightest brifter movement results in mech movement. Best wishes.

That's good info that you confirmed using 52 as the big ring, and it doesn't drop chain.

 

[jond]

That's good info that you confirmed using 52 as the big ring, and it doesn't drop chain.

Oops should specified Sram red 10 speed yaw with chain keeper 53 x 39 chainring fsa Klite on V2 frameset
Shimano 11 speed ultegra 52 ring. V20. No chain drops either set up.

 

[Robert O]

I've got Force Yaw from late 2015, and the yaw feature can be bypassed by a simple twist of a bracket component. I don't know if Rival is set up the same way, but I'd check. I'm running a Red 52-36 compact double and TT-500 barcons, and it's been a really well behaved setup.

 

[cpml123]

I think the main issue is 50t chain ring has too much gap from the Sram FD cage. 52t and higher are fine. For 50t, the FD has to be adjusted just right and with gentle pedal pressure when shifting from 34 to 50t ring so that the chain doesn't drop. I learned that the hard way after the chain dropped several times, scratching my new Cobb crank arm. Urr.

 

[Winded Lowrider]

In case anyone is still following this thread, I finally got to the root of the problem with front derailleur on my
Cruzbike Vendetta.

Friday after picking up the bike from "Bike Shop A" I went for test
ride. Derailleur would not shift up. Not good. After 4 miles the crank
came loose. REALLY NOT GOOD. I guess I paid 50 bucks for a new cable.

I made an emergency stop at "Bike ShopB" and Matt figured out what was
wrong. The bottom bracket had shifted nearly 1/3 of an inch from center.
That had been throwing off the chainrings and made adjusting the
derailleur properly, impossible. Matt also found that the rear derailleur
hanger was very slightly bent. After some expert adjustment the bike now
shifts to every gear perfectly. The bolts that hold the bottom bracket in
place are now properly tightened to prevent the bottom bracket from
slipping in the future.

So this is a case of treating symptoms without finding the root cause.It
was not the derailleur, not the pulley, not the cable, not the chainrings
not the brifter, and not the stops. It seems to me like a potential
problem area of the bike's design, but I'm not a bike designer...

It's been a year long investigation ( off and on), but I'm happy to ride now without shifting issues. Hooray!

-Brad

 

[cpml123]

That's a nice happy ending! Much cheaper than changing to 1x or fixing the brifter.

BTW... where is this "Bike Shop B?" If it's near me, I may want to visit them to have Matt adjust my derailleurs as well.

Michael

 

[benphyr]

Matt (and Bike Shop B) deserve our props for hitting the bulls eye.

 

[jond]

In case anyone is still following this thread, I finally got to the root of the problem with front derailleur on my
Cruzbike Vendetta.

Friday after picking up the bike from "Bike Shop A" I went for test
ride. Derailleur would not shift up. Not good. After 4 miles the crank
came loose. REALLY NOT GOOD. I guess I paid 50 bucks for a new cable.

I made an emergency stop at "Bike ShopB" and Matt figured out what was
wrong. The bottom bracket had shifted nearly 1/3 of an inch from center.
That had been throwing off the chainrings and made adjusting the
derailleur properly, impossible. Matt also found that the rear derailleur
hanger was very slightly bent. After some expert adjustment the bike now
shifts to every gear perfectly. The bolts that hold the bottom bracket in
place are now properly tightened to prevent the bottom bracket from
slipping in the future.

So this is a case of treating symptoms without finding the root cause.It
was not the derailleur, not the pulley, not the cable, not the chainrings
not the brifter, and not the stops. It seems to me like a potential
problem area of the bike's design, but I'm not a bike designer...

It's been a year long investigation ( off and on), but I'm happy to ride now without shifting issues. Hooray!

-Brad

Eureka great news. The importance of checking your bike over regularly with tools cannot be understated. It literally is a matter of safety.

Left unchecked even the best assembled bike can lose bits.

So kick those tyres and become your own bike shop B, its great fun if you have the time and unlike bike shop A you’ll know it’s done right.

 

[cpml123]

That's a nice happy ending! Much cheaper than changing to 1x or fixing the brifter.

BTW... where is this "Bike Shop B?" If it's near me, I may want to visit them to have Matt adjust my derailleurs as well.

Michael

I live in south Sammamish and would love to stop by bike shop B if it's close.

 

[Winded Lowrider]

PM me if you want too go see Matt. I think he might be the Cruzbike specialist soon!

2 rides with flawless shifting=Happy camper.

I'm spinning out in the 50 tooth ring going downhill at about 32 mph, so I may still need to switch to a 52.

 

[cpml123]

PM me if you want too go see Matt. I think he might be the Cruzbike specialist soon!

2 rides with flawless shifting=Happy camper.

I'm spinning out in the 50 tooth ring going downhill at about 32 mph, so I may still need to switch to a 52.

I will pm you.

Are you planning to just switch out the 50t with 52t ring so that you end up with 52/34 or you plan to change to mid compact crankset 52/36? I would be very curious to know if 52/34 works well.

Michael

 

[Winded Lowrider]

My plan is to ride as much as possible while I consider/research what to do next. Its my first 110BCD crankset so I'm a bit clueless on what's available what's standard and what's optimal. I need a higher high gear. Low gear seems adequate but I have not tried any super steep climbs yet. Cougar Mountain in Issaquah is calling me....

 

[Gary123]

I would be slow to tackle anything called cougar mountain after what happened to those Mt bikers in Washington state. Maybe it's just a name

 

[jond]

I will pm you.

Are you planning to just switch out the 50t with 52t ring so that you end up with 52/34 or you plan to change to mid compact crankset 52/36? I would be very curious to know if 52/34 works well.

Michael

Shimano 52-34 ultegra 6800 mechanical changes perfectly well. Was a 52-36 mid compact 110 bcd.

 

[benphyr]

Looks like the thread title could now read "front-mech woes Solved! "

 

[Robert O]

Shimano 52-34 ultegra 6800 mechanical changes perfectly well. Was a 52-36 mid compact 110 bcd.

I'm running the same gearing in SRAM Force Yaw (since last week), and it's been fine. Gives me a little more range on the bottom end.