The last V2k

[McWheels]

Hello all, first post, and what I'm told was the last frame set of the V2k. It's on its way over to the UK, where there are lots of hills, therefore I'm interested in some guidance about comparable gear inches, or whatever people think in (Sheldon Brown can translate for me).

Plan is to hook up a Sturmey Archery 8-speed, X-RK8, but as it's 1:1 in it's lowest gear, I need to select the right chainring to match it. So the question is, what's the lowest gear inches you need for what will be a commuting road bike? (no crawler off-road gears needed). At the moment I'm looking at 34.3 with 25T aft, 35T fwd and 26x1.25 wheels.

Also seen some discussions about rear racks, the axiom flip-flop was top of my list but others report it bottoms out with the suspension.

 

[ratz]

Charles and a few others will likely chime in with some good info on low gears. In the meantime a great place to start is the Mike Sherman gear calculator. Charles posted his soft ride configuration some years back; that should be a good starting point for a V2k Click Here

 

[Robert Holler]

A great one that works for that frame is the Topeak Beam rack - but only the "A" type:

http://www.topeak.com/products/racks/mtxbeamracka-type

 

[SamP]

I don't have a V2K frame, but I do have a Conversion Kit based on a Trek Y 26, which has a similar rear triangle geometry. I use a Topeak Explorer Tubular Rack with one Mounting Bracket Arm (extra long 34.5cm) using one side of the rear shock mounting bolt as the mount point. Not as strong as using two arms. If you're at all handy, you could probably make your own arms instead of spending on Topeak's kit, and probably could do it for most rear racks. Using this attachment point doesn't prevent the rear triangle from moving, but it does increase the unsprung weight on the rear wheel.

 

[McWheels]

Thanks all. A 10kg rack limit is a bit close to what I sometimes move about with, so knowing there's a way even with the shallow triangle is useful. Probably best I get the frame in front of me and see what could fit where. Couple of P-clips and some long arms and we'll be right by the look of things.

As for the chainring, I'm leaning towards 30T to make No1 a get out of trouble crawler and the rest for normal sculling around.

 

[Charles.Plager]

Thanks all. A 10kg rack limit is a bit close to what I sometimes move about with, so knowing there's a way even with the shallow triangle is useful. Probably best I get the frame in front of me and see what could fit where. Couple of P-clips and some long arms and we'll be right by the look of things.

As for the chainring, I'm leaning towards 30T to make No1 a get out of trouble crawler and the rest for normal sculling around.

Sounds like a good plan all around to me.

One upgrade possibility: with a chain tensioner, you can add a double (or even triple) crank upfront. A really write double means you've got a setting for climbing up mountains and another for screaming down them.

 

[McWheels]

It's arrived! And despite the TSA tape round the outside, it was obviously too strange for them to care, and well made for them to break. Last night I built up the shimano hub dynamo into the rear wheel, 36h 3x, and have ordered the rim tape, inners and tyres. I've also shelled out for the Sturmey-Archer X-RK8, and a 33T chainset from the same company. Did well, Ebay sellers had both for less than you'd normally find.

So I'm basically happy on wheels and propulsion. But I need a rack, and it needs to carry up to 20 kg, and carry a Lucas 525 motorbike light I shall fill with LEDs and capacitors. The link shows the initial attempt with a single 0.5W red. Far more effective to have 11 x 8mm superbrights for the same power output.

So it has to be at the back, and carry weight. What racks have the extended arms? From where could I find them?

 

[McWheels]

Well I would have posted links, but the site tells me I'm not allowed to. Flickr, username jdp298, there's an album about dynamo standlights.

Feel free to use the circuit diagram, it's been going well for me for over 8k miles on an upright.

 

[ratz]

Well I would have posted links, but the site tells me I'm not allowed to. Flickr, username jdp298, there's an album about dynamo standlights.

Feel free to use the circuit diagram, it's been going well for me for over 8k miles on an upright.

Sounds like that is progressing nicely.



Sorry about the links we had to enact new spam defenses. When you hit 10 posts you'll be able to link. You can however drag and drop images into the post data area to upload images into your posts. That's what most members do. You should have that ability already.

 

[1happyreader]

So it has to be at the back, and carry weight. What racks have the extended arms? From where could I find them?

Topeak and Old Man Mountain are two that I remember. Extended arms are often under small parts n such.

 

[quickbeam]

I just put the Topeak Beam Type A on my V2K, and it fits just fine, looks good. Cost about $60 at the LBS, probably could've shopped around for a better price if I wanted to spend my money elsewhere. But it isn't rated for your 20 kg load.

 

[Eric Winn]

Mike Sherman gear calculator.

Here is my Vendetta 2.0 gearing on the Mike Sherman gear calculator.

I'm running 53/39 crank rings with an 11-36 cassette and 170mm cranks.

-Eric

 

[McWheels]

Thanks Eric. I actually worked out where I was going to be based on my upright meters developed. Then translated. Then bought the things to fit. Then I discovered Sheldon Brown put a Sturmey-Archer 8-speed on one of his bikes. Makes me think I'm a little low, but 2.6 up to 8.3 is wider than the centre chain ring can give me now, and I've only been out of it once or twice in 3 years, and that at the bottom when I really wasn't feeling the hill that day.

Waiting on the hub to arrive, then build the second wheel, and the rest ought to fall into place quite quickly.

For the rack I think the Axiom Streamliner could be the thing. The caliper brake mount is miles away on the V2k, but if I straighten out the stay it'll bolt onto the mudguard just fine, and the weight can be borne over the rear axle.

Anyone want to talk home-build hub dynamo standlight circuit design?

 

[McWheels]

Some more questions, but first a short update. the S-A hub actually has 32 holes and not 36 as advertised. This has delayed me as I had to find a new rim and order spokes all over again. Spokes should be here either tomorrow or day after and I can get a rolling chassis over the weekend.

So mudguards. Is there a brand that provides an extra long front one so that the BB and cranks are protected? I'd sooner not throw water and mud and salt all over the chainset. Not found a VO vendor over here so wondered what the accepted wisdom was.

 

[quickbeam]

I was wondering that too, although I was (apparently selfishly) thinking more about the backs of my legs than the BB & cranks.

 

[McWheels]

 

[McWheels]

Commentary: Top pic is the rear wheel having been built with a shimano DH3N30.
Next the S-A 8-spd with makeshift trueing jig
And finally the mostly completed assembly. Second hand disc drake, but the S-A chainset, chain and tensioner are new. Some other parts from local bike shop(s) like the grips and brake levers.

I took most of Sunday learning to ride it, and am still pretty wobbly. Needs mudguards and a rack. And the rack was what was stopping me taking it into work. However, I have a solution to that provided you have 2 bags:

10 minutes on the sewing machine made these which rest over the horizontal under the seat and the hooks of the pannier bags hook into. That was enough to show it off and was only a mile in each direction.

Final thought, should I trim off the bottom of the seat post?

 

[McWheels]

Here we go, got a rack that fits and looks the part. A Raleigh stainless steel adjustable one, but the local bike shop/social enterprise doesn't charge the full RRP thank goodness.

Pictures also show how it's been mounted to stay on the sprung side with an extender piece. Hopefully it helps show how it can be done for a few others with the same question. Mudguards to follow once they arrive, then we're into dynamo light construction. Speaking of which, time to order the Lucas 525.

 

[1happyreader]

should I trim off the bottom of the seat post?

I think yes,, on my sofrider you cannot see seatpost on the bottom of the frame, and from the pics I worry about clearance ?

The rack looks great McWheels !!
If your frame brace proves too fragile you might try fabricating braces from the v-brake mounts.
As an example the Old Man Mountain racks in the USA have a rack that uses the pieces below.
later,,, bye

 

[McWheels]

So I've got the rear wheel just about how I want. Needed a cut to length plastic spacer from a dismantled climbing frame at the base front of the mudguard, but the hub dynamo is wired up, the home-brew LED mudguard light works beautifully with a Ledil flare lens, and the second picture has 0.5W of 10mm red LEDs ready to be hot-glue coated prior to insertion into the Lucas 525. I've actually bought a B&M front light since I can't make reflectors and they have DRLs too.

Still need an extra long front mudguard...