The last V2k

[McWheels]

And we're done!

The answer is 2 front mudguards. Trim one off close to the fork crown bracket and let the other slide under it.

As there are no bolt-holes for mudguards, this is the solution. http://www.reallyusefulbikes.co.uk/...elated/velo-orange-mudguard-stay-mount--10mm/

And this is the finished article. Some minor fettling will be required to stop the final squeak and rattle (electric cable on the rear mudguard) but all the things I wanted to put on it are now there.

 

[SamP]

Looks great. Your rack and fender hacks look better than mine.

 

[McWheels]

A small update. I've cleared 250 miles (a weekend for some ) and decided I want to be further reclined. It was already fully laid back given the seat bolt-holes and supplied seat-post length. So I got a shorter, s-shaped one, which also needed a 25.4mm to 27.5mm shim. Both cheap off ebay and this is the result. There's scope for going even further, but then I'd also want Silvio handlebars and associated shifters.



For now I'm going well and very happy with the beast. The Sturmey-Archer 8-speed is also good news. I rather like the buzzing sensation, it is after all more like clockwork than machinery.

A final gripe is that the rear mudguard stay coincides with the rack tubing and the nut of one rattles the other.

 

[McWheels]

Hello again. Short update having cleared the first 500 miles. Everything's going well and I'm getting faster.

However, 2 questions. The steerer tube/fork tube seems to rock a bit, even though I've re-seated the bearings 2 or 3 times, most noticeable when braking when there's a bit of a thunk-thunk through the handlebars. Anything I should do differently or get from a LBS?

Secondly the bottom bracket has a bit of a notch in it when the right pedal is in the position in the picture above. Been able to prove it's not the pedals or the hub. Don't mid getting and fitting a new one, but what's the width? I think I heard 113mm somewhere? The chainline is beautiful and I don't want to spoil it. Likewise I don't want to take everything off just to measure it and then wait for a new one when I could be riding instead until I get a new one.

Finally, solved the rattle of the mudguard stay on the rack. Take the captive nut out and rely on the aft stay along with the clip and bolt at the front of the rear wheel. Had to question myself on the simplicity of it, but it works.

 

[quickbeam]

I've noticed a bit of shake or rock in the front "fork" tube in my V2K as well. I noticed I have plenty of legroom, so I just recently lowered the handlebar tube a couple centimeters to see if that would make a difference, but haven't gone on a decent ride with it yet. The shake is not very pronounced, I don't notice it very often.

BTW, I'm at 250 miles on my ride, so you're definitely ahead of me. I do an hour's ride on a weekend, and a little bit here and there. I used to have a job where I could ride to work, but no more. My speed is picking up, even with that light training.

I don't have all those gizmos on my bike, just a back rack and a cyclometer. And clip-in pedals. One of the things I love it about it, once I got the derailleur dialed in, is how silent it is! When I'm pedaling, the only sound is the tire on the road. Most people with recumbents talk about chain rattle and such, and my trike had issues with the fenders, but not here (also, I don't have fenders at this point, so that helps too I guess).

One thing I decided to do after 100 miles or so was to drop the seat back down a bit. So I cut a bit of the seat post off, as you mentioned, and also rotated the connector to the seat back around 180'. I should take a picture and post it. Not quite as much of a change as yours, but I like it. I take my bike on some single track & dirt paths, so I want to be fairly up and maneuverable.

 

[McWheels]

Genius! I never thought of the seat post connector, but I can do that.

Mine's also not silent, but that's what happens when you get an S-A internal gear hub. I've come to rather enjoy the company of the whizzing and whirring it makes.

 

[McWheels]

In fact I was finally inspired to reverse the seat post connector. Took a little longer than planned. Turns out I need a bit more 'down' on the seat post to fit it in. We got there. I reckon I've now passed 45 deg, maybe 40. I tried to take the phot flat so someone with a handy protractor could tell me.



Handlebars feel a long way away, it's a much bigger change in sensation than the original seatpost mod. But it's windy down here by the coast, and this'll help. And we're at 785 miles, couple of weeks' commuting have really been helping.

 

[1happyreader]

There is an app for that ,, LOL.
really, try clinometer or something like it.
later,,, bye

 

[Jeremy S]

Handlebars feel a long way away

Try reversing the handlebar stem to match?

 

[ReklinedRider]

Try reversing the handlebar stem to match?

Yes that works well. I did that on my Sofrider when I leaned the seat further back. Looks funny, but it works.

 

[quickbeam]

In fact I was finally inspired to reverse the seat post connector. Took a little longer than planned. Turns out I need a bit more 'down' on the seat post to fit it in. We got there. I reckon I've now passed 45 deg, maybe 40. I tried to take the phot flat so someone with a handy protractor could tell me.

I'm reading it at about 38'.

 

[McWheels]

Turns out the phone app gives me 35deg at the bottom, 30-32 mid way and 34 at the top. On second check test flight I think I'll leave the grabbers where they are for a week or so.

 

[McWheels]

On the Gosport ferry this week, a small but significant milestone.

My first 1000 miles. (Although I've actually hit 29.6mph on the flat, that's just the last 2 weeks' top speed)

 

[DavidJL]

In fact I was finally inspired to reverse the seat post connector. Took a little longer than planned. Turns out I need a bit more 'down' on the seat post to fit it in. We got there. I reckon I've now passed 45 deg, maybe 40. I tried to take the phot flat so someone with a handy protractor could tell me.

View attachment 3532

Handlebars feel a long way away, it's a much bigger change in sensation than the original seatpost mod. But it's windy down here by the coast, and this'll help. And we're at 785 miles, couple of weeks' commuting have really been helping.

Looks like it's time for the QX steering mod.

 

[McWheels]

Could be. I'm fairly comfortable all told though. If I reverse the stem and go for drops, that'd be different, but I'd be struggling with how to fit the twist shifter. I think I'll just keep piling on the miles and wait for the day I can afford a Silvio S30. Early ones are nice, but the ones out now are a lot more elegant and coherent.

 

[quickbeam]

I changed out the handlebar stem for one a little longer (I have long arms, maybe that's why). But the LBS didn't have one at the same angle, so I went with a sharper angle, and it ended up not being much longer overall. Still feels better though.
I only got 300 miles on my V2K, but that's actually pretty good for me when not commuting by bike. I went to an open house last night on a projected road construction on my commute. If they fix that road, then I can commute to work, but it turns out it will still be years before they even start construction work.

 

[super slim]

To get a lower seat back angle, you can move the seat base forward(at least on a Softrider!) via the two sets of holes in the base to bike frame adapter, or the seat to the adapter via four sets of holes in the seat base!

 

[McWheels]

To get a lower seat back angle, you can move the seat base forward(at least on a Softrider!) via the two sets of holes in the base to bike frame adapter, or the seat to the adapter via four sets of holes in the seat base!

Already done that, absolutely had to when the original seatpost was installed. If I can find a pipe-bender, I'll make the current s-shaped one a little more bent and get it that way. Reckon I can get down below 30 deg before my arms are over-stretched. Then we can play with the stem.

 

[McWheels]

Still going, and now 2k miles on the V2k! Only thing I've done since the last update is to drop the stem by an inch. it's made the view much better.

Not commuting all the time, but that's because we were away at sea a lot first half of the year.

 

[McWheels]

Couple of minor amends. Nukeproof electron flats once I'd hit 2k miles as per promise to self. In the dry no difference, in the wet Game Changers! A pair of cheap but palm-shaped bolt-on grips since the rubber ones twisted annoyingly on the bar.

And some RAW mudflaps that are black in the day and retro-relfective at night. V impressed with them. http://rawmudflap.uk/product/ref-black-stealth-mudflap/

Mileage not going anywhere this last term as we were away a lot again. Mostly bothering Russians.

As the for the bike in the total time of ownership: No defects of note; S-A IGH gear cable been slightly adjusted once ever, otherwise gleaming; new front disc and pads from DiscoBrakes, and rear blocks; hub dynamo magnificent, as are the home-brew lights, also zero fixes required; Marathon (greenguards) zero flats; Driveline just gets the occassional squirt of oil and keeps on trucking. She's a weighty old girl, corn-fed variety for sure, but totally unjustifiable in replacing it. Dream bike would be a S40 with Kindernay XVI IGH, S-A drum-brake-hub-dynamo rear, and most everything else would transfer across.