The Low Down on Carbon Bike Tech.

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
When I clean my CF wheels I make sure about the integrity of the carbon on the rim. I also make sure about the tightness of spokes. If you are going at speed, you don't want your wheels failing you. I bought mine in China. Yep they were cheap and the manufacturer is well known. I live where there a number of potholes. Potholes and carbon fiber rims don't go to well together.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Do the concerns about carbon frames extend to carbon wheels?

-Cliff
Funny I never really thought about it in this context myself until you asked that. (Odd)

But

Wheels are a different animal; they are radial, not lateral; they have load bearing spokes; and they are highly scrutinized from a design side. They were a lot harder to perfect but now they are seemingly stronger or perhaps more forgiving than carbon frames. People are also much less inclined to ride around on damaged wheel's versus a damaged. Although the a carbon wheel can explode; not sure if that's worse than an aluminum one folding over.

So You won't catch me riding a noname super low cost set of them. But I have no problem riding a quality set, and many people do well with the mid price ones if the supplier is well vetted, as David is point out above some are well know. It's the "named knock offs" that you have to beware of.

I also find my self more inclined to inspect my wheels than I do my frame which is just dumb but it's the way I personally am. I logged about 500 road mile recently and two days after I completed a 140 mile ride I finally noticed that both my front and read brakes had become loose with ¼ inch of play and needed some serious lock tite white added to the bolts. I probably did 80+ miles with brakes about to fall off the bike. That would never happen with my wheels because I'm always ispecting them because I expect them to fail.

The real advantage on carbon wheels is you can get them Aero but then shape them to handle the cross winds far better than metal deep v rims. There's always the Aluminum wheels with carbon fairing for those that are nervous about.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Is there a 30 mm crank that fits external threaded BSA 68 mm bearing cups?

I think there is from FSA
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...TdjtM6F-0cNZwkSG261gQaAjxb8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

BSA theaded external, double row deep groove bearings to suit 30 mm shaft FSA 386 evo crankset, so the same chainline as existing chainsets.

Yes there are BB30 external cups that with fit a BSA68 shell. My trusty RWC has some and so does Rotor and a few others. Tried to use them on the Yellow V, but the cups are 2 mm to large a diameter to fit inside the chain stay clamps, due to the larger bearings. It was a sad moment when it didn't work. The EVO stuff is just weird I think there are two or three flavor of that and some work with the BSA she'll and other are press fit so that's usually a bunch of reading; but Robert's the expert on the FSA stuff
 

Robert Holler

Administrator
Staff member
There is no 30mm spindle crank that works with the current chainstay that I am aware of. Don't worry peeps the ability to use any crank you could ever wish is something that we are going to fix. Best news is that the goal for that will cover most (not all) of the performance models over the past few years or more. I have been testing out a fix and so far - good success. Stay tuned.
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
Hey, that's really interesting. I found out something that I didn't know. Front wheel braking is more effective on a DF. So would this be the same on a V?

Also I have a Bontrager carbon wheel with the aluminium braking rim at the rear of the bike, which I use most of the time and rarely use the all carbon front wheel rim braking except in emergencies... dodging dogs and rabbits and on coming cars.

I decided after flying off a mountain bike head first that I would always use the rear brake over the front.

If you have carbon clinchers probably best to go tubeless because of the heat on descents. However if you are someone who loves 8000 feet of descents fast then go for a disc hydraulic braking system. (Probably the Next V will get the all singing and dancing gear).
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
front wheel braking is more effective on everything, especially as you apply them harder. The only thing I can think of where front brakes are less effective then rears would be a long nose dragster and maybe an airplane.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
That is a well good report AGAIN!
Looks like disc braked carbon clincher tubeless wheels is the best way to go!!!!
 
Last edited:

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
What was the report from TdF this year. 60% of the peleton was on tubeless clinchers this year instead of tubular. Clincher tech has indeed come a long way.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
What was the report from TdF this year. 60% of the peleton was on tubeless clinchers this year instead of tubular. Clincher tech has indeed come a long way.
But how often were the CF wheels replaced?
And those guys do NOT use their brakes very often!
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
But how often were the CF wheels replaced?
And those guys do NOT use their brakes very often!

Are you referring to the braking track area on carbon rims getting worn down? If so I have a pair of Reynolds 66mm rims with around 20,000 miles and plenty of brake pad melting descents and the brake track looks perfect.
 
Top