This one is for those who purchased the Axiom rack for their T50s

[Vicki C.]

I did receive the additional bolts and spacers, with washers and nuts, for the rack today. (Thank you, Robert.)

I had a bit of trouble as the clearances seem very tight at the eyelets. I couldn't use the spacers because if I did the bolt was not long enough to attach the nut, which is necessary to hold it together, as the eyelet is not threaded or the bolt is too thin. There is very little clearance and at first I was blocking the disk brake from turning. I also had to move the rack back almost to a point that it was not level in order to keep it from interfering with the movement of the brake.

I am little nervous because the lower bolts through the eyelets just don't seem as tightly fastened as I would like, although I can't really see another way to do it. If I were to screw those bolts in all the way so that the rack is flush to the frame at the eyelets, the way other racks seem to work, the bolts would definitely interfere with the wheel and the braking. I did not try putting the head of the bolt on the inside and the nut on the outside, but trying to get my wrench in there would be nigh impossible. I don't know whether putting weight on the rack or bouncing on some of our unfortunately very rough roads will cause the bolts to dislodge with an ensuing wheel disaster.

I have actually installed racks before and checked out the attachment on the rack on my Tour Easy. It just bolts on through a threaded eyelet with no nut attached.

Has anyone mounted this rack on the T50 and can offer some advice/suggestions/photos? (There are no instructions with the rack itself or for attaching it specifically to the Cruzbike.)

 

[Suz]

Hi Vicki, as we speak I've been tinkering with this for about 45 minutes. First there is no nut needed, I just screwed it in, the eyelets are threaded. It doesn't seem like it will work but it screws in if it's lined up just right. Second, I have the same issue with the rack pushing up against the brake. Thus my tinkering for so long to get the brake to just miss the rack. I think I need a little longer spacer on that side in order to miss the brake and still allow for movement in the brake.
I have a different rack than yours but I think that shouldn't matter. I'll post a picture in a minute.

 

[Suz]

Hi Vicki, I just re-read your post, maybe you do need the nuts if that's what Robert sent.
Mine however doesn't need them. Nonetheless I still had an issue with the rack pushing up against the brake. I added a small washer to add a bit more space and also adjusted my brake cable etc in order for it to miss the rack.
I can't get my pic uploaded but will continue to try.

 

[Suz]

It's not easy to see, there is clearance, but just barely. Ok, must go to bed will check the brakes tomorrow to make sure I didn't mess them up.
And yes, that is a scratch on my brand new rack. Argh.

 

[super slim]

View attachment 5238
It's not easy to see, there is clearance, but just barely. Ok, must go to bed will check the brakes tomorrow to make sure I didn't mess them up.
And yes, that is a scratch on my brand new rack. Argh.

A picture is worth a thousand words!!!!!!! Thanks

 

[Vicki C.]

Hi Vicki, as we speak I've been tinkering with this for about 45 minutes. First there is no nut needed, I just screwed it in, the eyelets are threaded. It doesn't seem like it will work but it screws in if it's lined up just right. Second, I have the same issue with the rack pushing up against the brake. Thus my tinkering for so long to get the brake to just miss the rack. I think I need a little longer spacer on that side in order to miss the brake and still allow for movement in the brake.
I have a different rack than yours but I think that shouldn't matter. I'll post a picture in a minute.

Thank you so much. My rack has scratches, too.

One side seemed to be threaded but the other just turned and turned. Neither side really seemed to catch the bolt in threads and so I used the nuts, which I think are supposed to be locking (the plastic insert). I originally thought two spacers on the brake side would be better but, of course, the bolt would need to be longer. And, actually, the spacers were too long anyway.

I can look again at mine to see if there is another alternative but for now I will just hope the bolts hold.

Thank you for taking the time for such a thorough response.

 

[trapdoor2]

Interesting. The rack mount eyelets on my Red T50 are not threaded. They are the correct size for tapping to 6 X 1.0mm, so I would assume that this is an "escape".

OTOH, the untapped hole will accept a 3/16" bolt, so you could alternatively head to your nearest source of nuts & bolts and find what you need. Because it sounds like there are clearance issues, it might be best to get someone to tap those threads for you (I'll do mine myself, I've been tapping threads since I was a kid).

 

[Suz]

Well, I didn't mess anything up but I think I'll look for a longer bolt and a plastic spacer that will give me a little more clearance if a brake adjustment is needed.
Good luck all.

 

[Vicki C.]

Interesting. The rack mount eyelets on my Red T50 are not threaded. They are the correct size for tapping to 6 X 1.0mm, so I would assume that this is an "escape".

OTOH, the untapped hole will accept a 3/16" bolt, so you could alternatively head to your nearest source of nuts & bolts and find what you need. Because it sounds like there are clearance issues, it might be best to get someone to tap those threads for you (I'll do mine myself, I've been tapping threads since I was a kid).

I don't think I am going to start tapping my own threads at this point in my life any more than I would take up tap dancing. Well, could happen, I guess. I may end up going to a nuts and bolts store. We have a couple of great hardware stores in my city, one that has or can find just about anything.

 

[Vicki C.]

Back to the rack. When I ride with the rack I am getting a terrible rattle and clank; however, the Axiom racks have a great reputation and people comment how quiet they are, so it must be my installation. In fact, I can't even find anything at all when trying to search for Axiom and rattle.

I know that the ones recommended are NOT spec'd for disk brakes, per the manufacturer. They actually have a disk brake rack. The clearance issues with the disk brake and having to tilt the rack down at the back to avoid the brake are of some concern, although perhaps not a true issue. But the noise is a problem and I have tightened all the bolts more than once, and secured the arms that attach to the seat back, although they really don't seem to be loose. Nothing seems to be loose, except for a small amount of play in the part with the adjustment holes that attaches to the eyelet. That has a little bit of play. I am stymied. I am going to ask some people I ride with tomorrow, but they may ask me to leave the ride if I can't get the bike quiet. It is fine on a perfectly smooth asphalt surface, but we don't have many of those, between the potholes, squirrel runs under the asphalt and the chipseal.

 

[Jeremy S]

Back to the rack. When I ride with the rack I am getting a terrible rattle and clank; however, the Axiom racks have a great reputation and people comment how quiet they are, so it must be my installation. In fact, I can't even find anything at all when trying to search for Axiom and rattle.

I know that the ones recommended are NOT spec'd for disk brakes, per the manufacturer. They actually have a disk brake rack. The clearance issues with the disk brake and having to tilt the rack down at the back to avoid the brake are of some concern, although perhaps not a true issue. But the noise is a problem and I have tightened all the bolts more than once, and secured the arms that attach to the seat back, although they really don't seem to be loose. Nothing seems to be loose, except for a small amount of play in the part with the adjustment holes that attaches to the eyelet. That has a little bit of play. I am stymied. I am going to ask some people I ride with tomorrow, but they may ask me to leave the ride if I can't get the bike quiet. It is fine on a perfectly smooth asphalt surface, but we don't have many of those, between the potholes, squirrel runs under the asphalt and the chipseal.

Random suggestion: try picking up the back of the bike a bit and dropping it so the tire bounces. If there is any rattle in the rear, you should hear it. Try moving your head around to pinpoint the sound, or maybe you'll even see something move.

 

[Vicki C.]

Random suggestion: try picking up the back of the bike a bit and dropping it so the tire bounces. If there is any rattle in the rear, you should hear it. Try moving your head around to pinpoint the sound, or maybe you'll even see something move.

Tried that and I don't hear anything. That is why it is so weird. Shook the pack with my tools: nothing. But when I get out on the road: rattles and noises with the least roughness. I will continue to look and listen.

 

[trapdoor2]

The trick to finding rattles is to be methodical and unrelenting. Thick, black electrical tape is your friend. Stretch it hard and wrap tight every movable connection. If two pieces (struts, whatever) come within a popsicle stick of each other, wrap a layer of tape around each at the closest spot. Sometimes, I will purposely stick a bit of rubber (old inner tube, yoga mat, etc.) between 'em. Do 'em one at a time (identify, wrap, go ride. Lather, rinse and repeat). When you find an offender, figure out how to buffer it. Some joints just need a bit of tape, some need caulking (silicone caulk is available in black). I prefer tape as caulk is messy at best.

Don't waste your time on "tightening it up" as time and vibration will cause it to loosen again. Buffer it, isolate it, dampen it.

The bike behaves totally differently when you're on it. It bends and wiggles in places you would never think of. The rack warps and weaves and wiggles to its own tune...and it is a different tune based on whether you're on the bike or not.

 

[Vicki C.]

The trick to finding rattles is to be methodical and unrelenting. Thick, black electrical tape is your friend. Stretch it hard and wrap tight every movable connection. If two pieces (struts, whatever) come within a popsicle stick of each other, wrap a layer of tape around each at the closest spot. Sometimes, I will purposely stick a bit of rubber (old inner tube, yoga mat, etc.) between 'em. Do 'em one at a time (identify, wrap, go ride. Lather, rinse and repeat). When you find an offender, figure out how to buffer it. Some joints just need a bit of tape, some need caulking (silicone caulk is available in black). I prefer tape as caulk is messy at best.

Don't waste your time on "tightening it up" as time and vibration will cause it to loosen again. Buffer it, isolate it, dampen it.

The bike behaves totally differently when you're on it. It bends and wiggles in places you would never think of. The rack warps and weaves and wiggles to its own tune...and it is a different tune based on whether you're on the bike or not.

Thank you for this! I stopped by the local bike shop today and got a better attachment, which helped. But I am going to follow your advice as well for the remaining bits. He used a couple stem nuts on each bolt instead of the supplied spacers, which we're too long. Genius! I use those instead of Shrader to Presta adapters but didn't think to do so for the rack mount.

 

[super slim]

Thank you for this! I stopped by the local bike shop today and got a better attachment, which helped. But I am going to follow your advice as well for the remaining bits. He used a couple stem nuts on each bolt instead of the supplied spacers, which we're too long. Genius! I use those instead of Shrader to Presta adapters but didn't think to do so for the rack mount.

Excellent idea!! Thanks for sharing!

 

[Robert Holler]

Those of you who got the complete T50's - I tapped the rear holes for you are they were not tapped out from the factory. This was not something I could do to all the frame sets that went out. The solution for the untapped ones there is to use a smaller M5 and a nut on the other side.

It is a tight fit but it should work OK.

Robert

 

[Vicki C.]

Those of you who got the complete T50's - I tapped the rear holes for you are they were not tapped out from the factory. This was not something I could do to all the frame sets that went out. The solution for the untapped ones there is to use a smaller M5 and a nut on the other side.

It is a tight fit but it should work OK.

Robert

My bike shop guy said he thought mine WERE tapped and I originally thought so, but then the bolts wouldn't tighten so I think not. But the bolt and nut that you sent worked with the stem nuts that he used for spacers (the aluminum ones were too long). I wish I had thought of that! All good now! Thanks for the response. It helps to know that it wasn't my imagination.

 

[tiltmaniac]

And tapping an already-made-hole isn't that hard. For real! Someone at a hardware store would likely help you do it.

 

[Jim Zimmerman]

My kit came with two black spacers for attaching the rack. The rack fit perfectly for me and the holes in the bike frame were threaded.