Jeremy S
Dude
It does look like your problem would be solved by a shorter chainstay.
Or a curved slider, or a steerer tube extender.
Multiple ways you could go here.
Thor seat on S30v2 vs. handlebar height
- Thread starter castlerobber
- Start date
Or a curved slider, or a steerer tube extender.
Multiple ways you could go here.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
The LBS had a stem riser in stock, but it's silver instead of black. The mechanic offered to do a test fitting of the riser to the S30, no charge, before ordering the black one. Looks like it'll work. Should have the black one in and installed by the end of the week.
dtseng
Well-Known Member
May be one day we shall see "New and improved S30v2 .. aka S33 , back by public demand"
Perhaps my bike is close enough to S33.
Head tube angle 72 deg, trail 68mm, WB 1028 mm, chain stay 430 mm, curved upper seat stay, back rest angle 34 degrees, whole bike weight 9.8 Kg.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IzAlmhF5to
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ak-tux
Zen MBB Master
Very nice dtseng, I wish I could afford a frame like yours
9.8Kg Ti bike! must be very responsive and compliant!The S30v2 had a rear Ti leaf suspension. A really unique frame.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Riser added last week, and handlebars moved forward a comfortable amount. I still have room to cut the riser down another 5 to 10mm if I need to.
Made a neckrest this morning out of 1/16" x 1.25" aluminum bar stock from Lowe's. Repurposed the cushion and mounting bracket from the suspension adjustable headrest. I'll probably reinforce a few areas once I have the fit dialed in. (Yes, that's Gorilla Tape holding the bottom end of the bracket.)
Made a neckrest this morning out of 1/16" x 1.25" aluminum bar stock from Lowe's. Repurposed the cushion and mounting bracket from the suspension adjustable headrest. I'll probably reinforce a few areas once I have the fit dialed in. (Yes, that's Gorilla Tape holding the bottom end of the bracket.)
Leif
Active Member
I'm having similar fit issues with my S40. If I want more arm extension, my thighs hit the handlebars. I tried the curved (up) boom but did not like the look of the bike once installed.
I've been interested in a riser such as yours but I'm concerned that I'll have to cut off some of the steer tube to accommodate the added height. Was this an issue for you?
Thanks for sharing your progress!
-Leif
I've been interested in a riser such as yours but I'm concerned that I'll have to cut off some of the steer tube to accommodate the added height. Was this an issue for you?
Thanks for sharing your progress!
-Leif
tiltmaniac
Zen MBB Master
Looks good!
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
The riser was a good fit. There was just the right amount of steerer tube--about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2"--for it to clamp on to, no cutting needed. The brand the LBS uses is Delta. Not sure of the original length.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Took the S30 out for 47 miles Saturday morning, at the Bikes, Blues & Bayous ride in the Mississippi delta town of Greenwood. The seat was a good fit, and the DIY neckrest worked well. My hands felt a little high, and the handlebar a little too wide, at that riser height. I'll probably look at different handlebars before I decide on cutting the riser any more.
The night before the ride, at the motel, I was lubing the chain when I realized three chainring bolts were missing , and the other two were very loose. I had no spare bolts with me, but figured the mechanics at the ride would have some. No such luck. They did have zip-ties, so they attached a zip-tie through each spider arm to replace the bolt. I also ran thin strips of Gorilla Tape through several of the Q-ring non-bolt holes. Hacks and bodges...but they got me through the ride.
The night before the ride, at the motel, I was lubing the chain when I realized three chainring bolts were missing
, and the other two were very loose. I had no spare bolts with me, but figured the mechanics at the ride would have some. No such luck. They did have zip-ties, so they attached a zip-tie through each spider arm to replace the bolt. I also ran thin strips of Gorilla Tape through several of the Q-ring non-bolt holes. Hacks and bodges...but they got me through the ride.
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
I am late (very late!) to this thread. And I missed BBB this year.
It looks like the stem riser took care of the problem, and I love that you can now ride without the neck rest when you want, or use it when you want. Very ingenious home made neck rest too! You look all-around more comfortable on the bike. Do you think the new position takes enough aero away to be noticeable?
One comment about crank length, my personal opinion only: I don't think 140mm cranks would be too short for you (I run 145 on the Vendetta, and often think I could go shorter). The benefit in going from your 150 to 140 is a net gain of 2cm leg clearance at the handlebars for a 1cm decrease in crank length. It seems counter-intuitive but it's true. The same is true in reverse: adding 1cm to crank length results in a loss of 2cm bar clearance. Kind of a moot point now, since the stem riser worked like a charm. But, gaining that extra clearance would probably allow you to get your hands lower if they feel too high at present (if you cut some of the Delta stem riser off after shortening the cranks).
I do have a handlebar recommendation if you get ready to go to a different bar.
Hope to see y'all soon. Are you riding the Baptist Med Center Cyclists Curing Cancer ride in Sept?
It looks like the stem riser took care of the problem, and I love that you can now ride without the neck rest when you want, or use it when you want. Very ingenious home made neck rest too! You look all-around more comfortable on the bike. Do you think the new position takes enough aero away to be noticeable?
One comment about crank length, my personal opinion only: I don't think 140mm cranks would be too short for you (I run 145 on the Vendetta, and often think I could go shorter). The benefit in going from your 150 to 140 is a net gain of 2cm leg clearance at the handlebars for a 1cm decrease in crank length. It seems counter-intuitive but it's true. The same is true in reverse: adding 1cm to crank length results in a loss of 2cm bar clearance. Kind of a moot point now, since the stem riser worked like a charm. But, gaining that extra clearance would probably allow you to get your hands lower if they feel too high at present (if you cut some of the Delta stem riser off after shortening the cranks).
I do have a handlebar recommendation if you get ready to go to a different bar.
Hope to see y'all soon. Are you riding the Baptist Med Center Cyclists Curing Cancer ride in Sept?
ak-tux
Zen MBB Master
Your hands look lower than or at shoulder level. That looks good to me. But it might not feel good to you. Our bodies are notorious at detecting small changes. Always give your self a few rides over a couple of weeks to adapt and get used to a new position before you make any further/major changes or cut anything.
Have you also considered flipping the handlebars to their normal dropbar position? That may bring the hands slightly lower perhaps
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
And we missed you at BBB this year! I haven't made it to any of the Tuesday- or Thursday-night rides this summer, for various reasons. Hoping to get to the Encouragement Ride in the next week or two, once I have the full complement of chainring bolts again.
Would be glad to hear it.
Yes, planning to be at CCCC, riding the 50-mile.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Very true.
I have, and it might. But for me, the advantages of the upside-down position so far outweigh the desire to lower the hands.
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
@castlerobber: I switched to a Ritchey Comp Evomax handlebar; the WCS Evomax and the WCS Neomax are very similar. They are among Ritchey's cyclocross bars and all have 12degrees of flare at the drops which is just enough to have your wrists/inner arms clear the outside of the bar when using the 'upside down and backward' position that we like, but not so much that the bars flare out to a near 'W' shape like on the stock S30 bars or the Soma Junebug (my former bar) or the On One Midge, or any of the other off-road drop bars. I find them to be more ergonomic; I like my wrists more vertical (like a handshake) and less rotated out, like they have to be on other off-road drops and the stock S30 bars. Also, since there is less flare, it lets the brifters/brakes be much closer to 'straight ahead' and less rotated out than on other off-road bars, which I also find more ergonomic. I did cut the ends of the drops off by 2cm, partly for looks but mostly so my hands weren't so high when using the bar end shifters.
I'm with @ak-tux, I think your hand height looks fine, but if you still don't like them that high there are ways to get them down a bit.
I can post some pics of the Ritchey's on the V if you like.
I've made very very few of the Tuesday rides nor the Thursday Encouragement rides either, due to work or being out of town, and won't be at any for at least the next 3 weeks :-( but plan to ride the CCCC, either the 50 or 62. Probably the 50. No 100 miles on that ride for me this year!
Hope to see you at CCCC (with a full set of chainring bolts, no less!)
I'm with @ak-tux, I think your hand height looks fine, but if you still don't like them that high there are ways to get them down a bit.
I can post some pics of the Ritchey's on the V if you like.
I've made very very few of the Tuesday rides nor the Thursday Encouragement rides either, due to work or being out of town, and won't be at any for at least the next 3 weeks :-( but plan to ride the CCCC, either the 50 or 62. Probably the 50. No 100 miles on that ride for me this year!
Hope to see you at CCCC (with a full set of chainring bolts, no less!)
Balor
Zen MBB Master
When you go with short cranks, you can move the bars much farther away without 'thigh conflict' and get away with "seagull" MTB bars with no drop, that also solves 'fully getting up' issue.
You will need MTB dual controls though (I have those, work fine but 9-speed only) or grip shifters. Sram has those and really cheap btw (NX).
You will need MTB dual controls though (I have those, work fine but 9-speed only) or grip shifters. Sram has those and really cheap btw (NX).
Balor
Zen MBB Master
I'm not that good at drawing, and don't have enough time to make a CAD sketch. Yet, for every cm of shortening the cranks you can get 2 cm of extra leg clearance - you move bb forward that one cm and, due to cranks being shorter, you legs at maximum 'bend' end up 1 cm farther fron you as well.
If you are really long-legged AND long-armed that might not help, but I think I have pretty standard proportions and it works fine for me with recline that is about as much as Silvio if you include the seat 'back flare' - I also have Thor 'sport' seat... otherwise I think I'm closer to Vendetta.
If you are really long-legged AND long-armed that might not help, but I think I have pretty standard proportions and it works fine for me with recline that is about as much as Silvio if you include the seat 'back flare' - I also have Thor 'sport' seat... otherwise I think I'm closer to Vendetta.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Let's say you shorten the cranks 20 mm. When the pedal is nearest you, it's now 20 mm farther away than it was before, so your knee isn't as bent. When the pedal is farthest away from you, it's 20 mm closer than it was, so your leg won't be as fully extended as it was before.
But you need to get your full leg extension back, so you move the boom away/out that 20 mm you removed from the cranks. Now the pedal is 40 mm farther away from you at its nearest point. Your knee will be decidedly less bent than with the original-length cranks.
This gives you room to adjust the handlebar away from you. I also find it more comfortable having my knee less bent on the backstroke.
