Transition from Silvio to Vendetta
- Thread starter Rick Youngblood
- Start date
Eric Winn
Zen MBB Master
Thanks Rick, that is a lot
Thanks Rick, that is a lot cleaner and the fit is a lot better than I realized. My front wings have no holes and the back of my frame tube is entirely open and uses a foam plug to seal it.
I guessed right on the front. The back was what I was most curious about to ssee how stable the mount would be since the top curves up quite a bit. Looks like a longer wedge shape would work better for that riser block. How is the top of the seat fastened to that block?
-Eric
Thanks Rick, that is a lot cleaner and the fit is a lot better than I realized. My front wings have no holes and the back of my frame tube is entirely open and uses a foam plug to seal it.
I guessed right on the front. The back was what I was most curious about to ssee how stable the mount would be since the top curves up quite a bit. Looks like a longer wedge shape would work better for that riser block. How is the top of the seat fastened to that block?
-Eric
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Eric, currently it is screwed
Eric, currently it is screwed in to the block with machine screws. But I have an idea to use the same hard rubber that I used upfront in the back too. The rear mount present a few problem to over come, but I think it would be easier to mount the back block with the end open like yours. In the next couple of days I'm going to redo the back connecting block using the rubber.
Ivan, I'm thinking maybe the dense rubber mount upfront is damping the chipseal a little better than a rigid connection directly to the from. Using the rubber is an idea i picked up with my experience from owning the Metabike.
Eric, currently it is screwed in to the block with machine screws. But I have an idea to use the same hard rubber that I used upfront in the back too. The rear mount present a few problem to over come, but I think it would be easier to mount the back block with the end open like yours. In the next couple of days I'm going to redo the back connecting block using the rubber.
Ivan, I'm thinking maybe the dense rubber mount upfront is damping the chipseal a little better than a rigid connection directly to the from. Using the rubber is an idea i picked up with my experience from owning the Metabike.
Holy smokes that is an
Holy smokes that is an awesome chainring!!!!!
Holy smokes that is an awesome chainring!!!!!
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Sure Larry, I have one on the
Sure Larry, I have one on the S too. Bob also uses the UpStand:
http://upstandingbicycle.com/
Rick
Sure Larry, I have one on the S too. Bob also uses the UpStand:
http://upstandingbicycle.com/
Rick
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
So I decided to re-do the
So I decided to re-do the rear seat bracket to refine it a little using the hard dense rubber I bought of eBay. This rubber is extremely hard, at 1" thick you can't bend it, but it does have a tiny bit of give and I think dampens the vibration of the chipseal a little.
Because I wanted to use the existing holes I drilled in the seat back (for the previous block), I drilled counter sink holes in the bottom part of the rubber to recess the nylon locking bolts, otherwise they would have protruded through and and sat on top of the frame. In hindsight, if I had put more spacing between the bolt holes (in the beginning) they would have missed the frame. But I like the look of the recessed bolts, looks clean. I cut the rubber using my compound miter saw and gave it an angle so it would follow the frames couture.
I'm happy with the seat conversion or transformation. For me it's very comfortable when used with an ADEM headrest.
here are some updated pic's:
Below the rubber mount bolted to seat back
Below, the rubber bracket and hardware. It's difficult to see the recessed holes on top of the rubber bracket.
The seat mounted with proper Ventisit pad attached.
So I decided to re-do the rear seat bracket to refine it a little using the hard dense rubber I bought of eBay. This rubber is extremely hard, at 1" thick you can't bend it, but it does have a tiny bit of give and I think dampens the vibration of the chipseal a little.
Because I wanted to use the existing holes I drilled in the seat back (for the previous block), I drilled counter sink holes in the bottom part of the rubber to recess the nylon locking bolts, otherwise they would have protruded through and and sat on top of the frame. In hindsight, if I had put more spacing between the bolt holes (in the beginning) they would have missed the frame. But I like the look of the recessed bolts, looks clean. I cut the rubber using my compound miter saw and gave it an angle so it would follow the frames couture.
I'm happy with the seat conversion or transformation. For me it's very comfortable when used with an ADEM headrest.
here are some updated pic's:
Below the rubber mount bolted to seat back
Below, the rubber bracket and hardware. It's difficult to see the recessed holes on top of the rubber bracket.
The seat mounted with proper Ventisit pad attached.
Rick,
That chainring still
Rick,
That chainring still blows me away. Is that stiff when riding?
Robert
That chainring still
Rick,
That chainring still blows me away. Is that stiff when riding?
Robert
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Hi Robert, it's a 53t Q-ring,
Hi Robert, it's a 53t Q-ring, it does look big, but maybe because the small dia vs big dia is causing that. As far as I can tell it's stiff, nothing to indicate to me it's not. It is funny to watch it from the cockpit go up and down. However the from FD needs to be on the second bolt hole for the chain to clear the top of the inside FD when in the bigger cogs.
Hi Robert, it's a 53t Q-ring, it does look big, but maybe because the small dia vs big dia is causing that. As far as I can tell it's stiff, nothing to indicate to me it's not. It is funny to watch it from the cockpit go up and down. However the from FD needs to be on the second bolt hole for the chain to clear the top of the inside FD when in the bigger cogs.
Charles.Plager
Recumbent Quant
Hi Rick,
Lookin' good!
Can
Hi Rick,
Lookin' good!
Can you tell if (and how much) the seat angle changes from the original?
Cheers,
Charles
Lookin' good!
Can
Hi Rick,
Lookin' good!
Can you tell if (and how much) the seat angle changes from the original?
Cheers,
Charles
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Hi Charles, seat angle is
Hi Charles, seat angle is about the same. It's the rear of the new seat that has the rise helping my should neck transition to the neck rest. The front to mid portion of the seat before the rise, follows the angle of the frame pretty close, if that makes sense. But the angle could be to a greater degree with a taller rear rubber bracket.
Hi Charles, seat angle is about the same. It's the rear of the new seat that has the rise helping my should neck transition to the neck rest. The front to mid portion of the seat before the rise, follows the angle of the frame pretty close, if that makes sense. But the angle could be to a greater degree with a taller rear rubber bracket.
Balor
Zen MBB Master
I've seen your work with the elastomer "damper", and had an idea:
Given how hard you say it is, and how you bolted it to the frame, I suspect it does not really work as intended except for really fine vibrations perhaps (and since your tires already take care of them, I doubt it works at all).
There are special vibration damping/isolating materials out there, with pretty well-documented parameters, like this, for instance.
https://www.getzner.com/en/solutions/materials/sylomer/
http://www.christianberner.se/$-1/file/sylomer-sr.pdf
(also, there there is sylomer HD with much better damping properties, but much less info is available about it)
You can calculate the required type and thickness based on your area of contact and your weight. I bet it would result in MUCH superior vibration damping and isolation. You can glue a few layers together, and than use your velcro trick you did with Silvio to attach slabs of material to the frame and the seat without bolting them. (
Being dirt-poor (just frameset alone would cost me half of my YEARLY wages) I cannot afford Vendetta + shipping, but I'll surely ask a local welder to make something similar, kinda like mhelander's 'diy vendetta' from BROL, but with more tire clearance (will use fatter Schwalbe marathon tires) and surely will use your trick with 'seat mounting on velcro with damping".
Our roads need all the damping one can get and than some.
Given how hard you say it is, and how you bolted it to the frame, I suspect it does not really work as intended except for really fine vibrations perhaps (and since your tires already take care of them, I doubt it works at all).
There are special vibration damping/isolating materials out there, with pretty well-documented parameters, like this, for instance.
https://www.getzner.com/en/solutions/materials/sylomer/
http://www.christianberner.se/$-1/file/sylomer-sr.pdf
(also, there there is sylomer HD with much better damping properties, but much less info is available about it)
You can calculate the required type and thickness based on your area of contact and your weight. I bet it would result in MUCH superior vibration damping and isolation. You can glue a few layers together, and than use your velcro trick you did with Silvio to attach slabs of material to the frame and the seat without bolting them. (
Being dirt-poor (just frameset alone would cost me half of my YEARLY wages) I cannot afford Vendetta + shipping, but I'll surely ask a local welder to make something similar, kinda like mhelander's 'diy vendetta' from BROL, but with more tire clearance (will use fatter Schwalbe marathon tires) and surely will use your trick with 'seat mounting on velcro with damping".
Our roads need all the damping one can get and than some.
