Mike Cassera
Member
The S40 has a TRP Sprye doube piston brake. Has anyone experienced the 3mm adjustment screw locking up? If so how did you fix it? TIA
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TRP Sprye brake problem.
- Thread starter Mike Cassera
- Start date
Mike Cassera
Member
Inside
Inside or out? You have to watch which direction to turn it. Good videos on YouTube.….one good one from manufacturer. Probably several folks on this forum can explain it better.
When I contacted the company, I was told to take it to a bike shop.
Inside .... but what difference does that make? I took it to a bike shop and they said it was frozen. However they were able to center the disk without moving the frozen screw.Inside or out? You have to watch which direction to turn it. Good videos on YouTube.….one good one from manufacturer. Probably several folks on this forum can explain it better.
When I contacted the company, I was told to take it to a bike shop.
Inside
Inside .... but what difference does that make? I took it to a bike shop and they said it was frozen. However they were able to center the disk without moving the frozen screw.
Why it feels confusing
Opposing Sides: One screw is on the outboard side and one is on the inboard side. Since you are looking at them from opposite perspectives, applying the standard "righty-tighty" (clockwise) rule can be disorienting.
Mirror Image: On most mechanical disc brakes, clockwise always moves the pad closer to the rotor. However, because the screws are oriented towards the outside on both sides of the caliper, you have to remember that "clockwise" is a constant mechanical command regardless of which side you are working on, even if it feels counterintuitive based on your physical perspective.
Opposing Sides: One screw is on the outboard side and one is on the inboard side. Since you are looking at them from opposite perspectives, applying the standard "righty-tighty" (clockwise) rule can be disorienting.
Mirror Image: On most mechanical disc brakes, clockwise always moves the pad closer to the rotor. However, because the screws are oriented towards the outside on both sides of the caliper, you have to remember that "clockwise" is a constant mechanical command regardless of which side you are working on, even if it feels counterintuitive based on your physical perspective.
Rolling Along
Well-Known Member
The video shows how to replace the pad adjusters. (Unusual to do.) To adjust the pads just look at the arrows and print on each side of the TRP Spyre brakes. It indicates which direction to tighten. With new pads you will tighten (both sides) over time as they wear. This is a very small adjustment with lots of miles of braking between adjustments.
You may try cleaning. Dirt can get in and foul things up. Remove the black cover if there is one. Remove the pads. Careful as there is a small clip for the screw and the clip is easy to lose. Once the pads are out, clean everything. You should then be able to screw in/out the "frozen" adjustment screw assuming it is not all the way in. Check your pads for wear and replace if needed.
You may try cleaning. Dirt can get in and foul things up. Remove the black cover if there is one. Remove the pads. Careful as there is a small clip for the screw and the clip is easy to lose. Once the pads are out, clean everything. You should then be able to screw in/out the "frozen" adjustment screw assuming it is not all the way in. Check your pads for wear and replace if needed.
Graham Mccollum
Member
I had this on lots of TRPs. They are great but if you regularly go out in rain or salt the screws get corrosion and rust. Ive managed to prolong their life with rehular WD40 sprayed carefully into the caliper avoid9ng contaminating the pads. The best system is regularly removing, dismantling and cleaning and greasing.
They are made with not enough tolerance and so perform well but once any corrosion starts they het stuck and end up threading when you force it.
I switched to hydraulics. Far better performance and no maintenance. Just have to faff of cutting hoses and rebleeding. Worth it once you have it right. I use cheap hydraulics for MTBs on my T50 but have paid for proper sti hydraulics on the v20. Used to jave mechanical TRPs but they seized so pushed me to upgrade.
They are made with not enough tolerance and so perform well but once any corrosion starts they het stuck and end up threading when you force it.
I switched to hydraulics. Far better performance and no maintenance. Just have to faff of cutting hoses and rebleeding. Worth it once you have it right. I use cheap hydraulics for MTBs on my T50 but have paid for proper sti hydraulics on the v20. Used to jave mechanical TRPs but they seized so pushed me to upgrade.
