TRP T860 Direct Mount Aerodynamic Road Brake

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Jim,
I used to have the TRI Omega and personally don't think it really helped with the V20 aerodynamics.
There is some benefit to this brake on an upright because it has direct exposure to the mostly unobstructed airflow in front of the bike and above the wheel - but on the V20: the brake location is already hidden behind and under the existing frame parts. It lives in the pocket of air already displaced and churned up by the frame, chainring, pdeals, feet and legs.
IMHO: Save your money for a new Thor Seat!
 

Always-Learnin

Vendetta Love
Jim,
I used to have the TRI Omega and personally don't think it really helped with the V20 aerodynamics.
There is some benefit to this brake on an upright because it has direct exposure to the mostly unobstructed airflow in front of the bike and above the wheel - but on the V20: the brake location is already hidden behind and under the existing frame parts. It lives in the pocket of air already displaced and churned up by the frame, chainring, pdeals, feet and legs.
IMHO: Save your money for a new Thor Seat!
Thanks Larry... Part of the reason I was asking is that I am getting inner leg strikes against the caliper arm on my front brake. It's rubbing a raw spot on my leg and I'm a tender boy! LOL!!! Is there a better option to prevent this?
 

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Thanks Larry... Part of the reason I was asking is that I am getting inner leg strikes against the caliper arm on my front brake. It's rubbing a raw spot on my leg and I'm a tender boy! LOL!!! Is there a better option to prevent this?
Understand Jim. Probably better option than leg surgery. Only other thing I can think of would be pedal extenders to increase you q-factor.
 

benphyr

Guru-me-not
Thanks Larry... Part of the reason I was asking is that I am getting inner leg strikes against the caliper arm on my front brake. It's rubbing a raw spot on my leg and I'm a tender boy! LOL!!! Is there a better option to prevent this?
You could ride a horse for a few decades to improve your bowleggedness! :D

Disc brakes would remove the calliper. For the amount that I use the rear brake I wouldn’t bother switching it over. Some production runs need improvising when switching. (eg. My s40 only fits 160 or larger rotors on my wheels due to calliper to spoke interference with 140s. )

Higher bottom bracket could help too, though all of the other bike fit factors would seem to be more important.
 

Always-Learnin

Vendetta Love
You could ride a horse for a few decades to improve your bowleggedness! :D

Disc brakes would remove the calliper. For the amount that I use the rear brake I wouldn’t bother switching it over. Some production runs need improvising when switching. (eg. My s40 only fits 160 or larger rotors on my wheels due to calliper to spoke interference with 140s. )

Higher bottom bracket could help too, though all of the other bike fit factors would seem to be more important.
Hmmm...I am a Texan, but alas, a city boy.

Changing out to a disc brake...would that cost more than just switching over to a center pull brake in the front? Then there's the issue with my FLO carbon wheels being caliper only.
 
Has anyone installed the TRP T860 Direct Mount Aerodynamic Road Brake on their V20? Looks like a TRIRIG OMEGA X knock off to me, but it is a little less expensive.

https://www.ebay.com/p/2259842887?iid=282995099718

TIA
The “direct mount” versions require a different fork to work, Cruzbikes use center bolt brakes. The Omega One’s an effective, clean-looking option. Ratz built his up with them, requiring a spacer. Discussed here, but sadly missing the photos.

The Crane Creek brake (regular mount) might be a great option, too. They route the cable to the center, so no more leg rubbing.

While I love my hydraulic disc brakes, I don’t think I’d buy new wheels just for this.
 

Always-Learnin

Vendetta Love
The “direct mount” versions require a different fork to work, Cruzbikes use center bolt brakes. The Omega One’s an effective, clean-looking option. Ratz built his up with them, requiring a spacer. Discussed here, but sadly missing the photos.

The Crane Creek brake (regular mount) might be a great option, too. They route the cable to the center, so no more leg rubbing.

While I love my hydraulic disc brakes, I don’t think I’d buy new wheels just for this.
Thanks for the info...but...$349.95 for one brake?! https://www.ebay.com/p/2291011360
 
I had a Silvio 2.1 and had the same problem with my legs rubbing on the cable stop. I bought the pedal extenders and didn’t have any problems after that. They cost about twenty dollars.
 

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
$349.95!??
I put a TriRig brake on the front of my Vendetta awhile back for the exact reason you mentioned...my knobby knees were taking a beating, especially the right. Works great. But the price has about doubled since i bought one! I'm with you, $350 for one brake is a bit much.
 
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