Tubeless tires on stock V20 wheelset?
- Thread starter kz22
- Start date
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
I am pretty sure no - but hopefully Robert can chime in. If you have the wheels take them down to your LBS and ask them if they are tubeless ready.
note: almost any wheel can probably be converted to a tubeless, but if the rim is not specifically engineered for the tubeless tire to seat into the rim "do not try it". Part of the beauty of the tubeless system is the tube seats into the rim and will stay there even if you go totally flat. On a rim that is not tubeless ready once the air pressure goes down enough the tire will separate from the rim which is dangerous. The result in not a happy one.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
My friend has Giant SLR1 hookless rims that are tubeless and they have been working fine for him, but only Schwalbe tubeless tires are recommended for that specific rim. Hookless sounds scary to me and I'd be afraid of the tire coming off after a flat if I had a hookless rim. If there is a lip on the inside of the rim then I'd feel safer in adding rim tape and giving tubeless a try, but I am no engineer. All 3 pairs of my Campagnolo rims (Zonda/Scirocco and Bullets) are not advertised as tubeless, but they have hooks and no spoke holes so I have run them as tubeless without rim tape with no problems.
Tuloose
Guru
On my V20 I purchased a set of Flo tubeless rims with the same depth as the original rims, 32mm I believe, then I laced them up to the hubs using the original bladed spokes.
The results are mixed.
I have worn through 3 pairs of tubeless 28mm tires but right now I am using tubes.
I had one major pinch flat on the front tire once which sprayed Stan's fluid all over the bike and me.
Sometimes they are a pain to mount. I have a small compressor and by taking out the presta valve core and holding in one of those tapered nozzles meant for inflating plastic toys I can usually get the tire to seat.
The current tires, Conti 5000 TL's, worked well enough for awhile except they lost air overnight much more rapidly than tubed tires. One day I was greeted with the rear tire totally deflated with no apparent damage so I tubed it, feeling I could no longer trust it out on the road.
The results are mixed.
I have worn through 3 pairs of tubeless 28mm tires but right now I am using tubes.
I had one major pinch flat on the front tire once which sprayed Stan's fluid all over the bike and me.
Sometimes they are a pain to mount. I have a small compressor and by taking out the presta valve core and holding in one of those tapered nozzles meant for inflating plastic toys I can usually get the tire to seat.
The current tires, Conti 5000 TL's, worked well enough for awhile except they lost air overnight much more rapidly than tubed tires. One day I was greeted with the rear tire totally deflated with no apparent damage so I tubed it, feeling I could no longer trust it out on the road.
I have good experience with GP5000-TL. I would not run anything else now. You need good sealant (I use stans race version). You also need to do the rim tape well, as I find most of the leaking you get overnight is the rim tape and not the tyre. I found this out as I got a set of wheels with rims without spoke holes so no rim tape needed. These wheels hold air much better than my rims with tape (which I pump every few days) and I only pump up once a week and usually hold air better than a 100gm tube. When I first tried tubeless I ran a few days without sealant, and they would go from 100psi->50psi in a few hours. I think that was because the tape had no sealant in it. These days the same wheels (and tape) with dried out sealant still hold air pretty well.
The tyres are FAST!! And it is nice when a puncture means just a couple of CH...Ch....ch...... noises as the sealant does its job. I've only had to fit a tube when sealant could not repair twice with a side wall tear... and that is in all my riding since 2019... so about 20-25k kms. With tubes I had a puncture on same roads every 2-400kms. I have had to do a repair to a sealant repair (tube patch inside tyre) at home later about 3 times when the sealant held at lower pressure but would leak from time to time at higher pressure.
The tyres are FAST!! And it is nice when a puncture means just a couple of CH...Ch....ch...... noises as the sealant does its job. I've only had to fit a tube when sealant could not repair twice with a side wall tear... and that is in all my riding since 2019... so about 20-25k kms. With tubes I had a puncture on same roads every 2-400kms. I have had to do a repair to a sealant repair (tube patch inside tyre) at home later about 3 times when the sealant held at lower pressure but would leak from time to time at higher pressure.
