V2.2 front derailleur help

twhbent

twhbent

Active Member
Ratz, I'm going to follow your recommendation and convert from the 130 bcd to 110 bcd.

After some researching I believe I need to purchase the following:
1 New set of 110 bcd crank arms(prefer Sram), not sure what length the arms are available in. ARE JUST SRAM ARMS AVAILABLE, CAN'T LOCATE ANY?
2 A set of aero Q Rings(52/36) from TWO HUBS
3 2 lengths of KMC chain from TWO HUBS. What means would you use to connect the chains, a master link ?

I'm sure I'm overlooking something as this is all new to me, so if I have please point it out.

Thanks, Tony.
 
ReklinedRider

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
www.cobbcycling.com >> accessories >> compact crank sets. 4 crank arm lengths available. Comes w bottom bracket and round chain rings. Pricey but if you're in a hurry they ship fast. Use your q rings instead of the supplied 110 bcd round rings (make sure to order your q rings in 110 bcd) and you're in business. If you don't like the Q's you already have a set of high quality compact chainrings.
 
Doug Burton

Doug Burton

Zen MBB Master
Something to consider:

Some of the earlier bikes were shipped with what is essentially brake cable housing being used as shift cable housing. I never liked this at all, though I know nowadays many bikes are shipped that way, and I've had bike shops tell me "that's all we stock, all bikes are done that way now".

Brake cable housing has the wire substrate wound in a "coil" configuration under the plastic outer sheath, and is designed to compress slightly and not shatter under the force you apply to the brake lever.

Proper shifter cable housing is "compressionless"; the wire substrate has the wires running lengthwise to the cable, parallel with the direction of the shifter cable. It makes a difference in how crisply the shifting works. Your SRV2.2 may be using this earlier housing.

NEVER use shift cable housing for brakes. It can't tolerate the higher forces you exert on the brake lever - it will collapse and you will lose your brakes altogether.
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
twhbent said:
1 New set of 110 bcd crank arms(prefer Sram), not sure what length the arms are available in. ARE JUST SRAM ARMS AVAILABLE, CAN'T LOCATE ANY?
Click to expand...

If SRAM is the goal then Googling "SRAM Rival crankset" will get you a good starting point. FSA brand will be equally good at similar price points. ROTOR cranks are a another whole class better but tricky to mount on a yellow V. I started with the rival and learned a lot.

Link to the links. :cool:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KMC-MASTER-LINKS-6-FOR-10-SPEED-NEW-/381394189625?hash=item58ccdd7d39
 
twhbent

twhbent

Active Member
A few questions regarding cranks after some research which I'm not sure about.

1- Are different brand cranks universal in relation to fitting different bb bearing or are they bearing specific(ex. Sram Gpx crank must have Sram Gpx bearing etc)?

2- I have noticed the different bearing types(pf,bb etc) and not exactly sure how to determine what cranks are compatible with each type of bearing.

3-I assume that a 11spd crank can't be used with a 10 spd cassette?

Trying to fully understand before ordering to prevent returns.
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
10sp/11sp cranks are compatible in most cases.
11sp front chain rings are mostly marketing. I've used 10sp/11sp ringa interchangeably

Cruzbike uses a BSA-68 english thread on the Bottom Bracket. Your bearing cups need to fit that width and thread pitch.

SRAM GXP is 24mm diameter spindle on the left and 22mm on the right; the BB cup needs to match.
Shimano is 24mm spindle on both sides; the BB cup needs to match.

When you settle on your crankset if you post it here we can verify the BB selection. Most Cranksets will include the BB and you just need to confirm the BSA-68 english thread. But you the included BB is usually middling quality and you can always upgrade.

I use RWC and find I'm very biased in my old age because of the quality of the product and the support.

Shimano style: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id224.html
SRAM Stype: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id225.html
 
twhbent

twhbent

Active Member
Mr. Ratz, I believe I have finally found a crankset that listed the required criteria. Since my existing bb is gxp I figured it would be best to stay with gxp.(?)
It is from NiagaraCycle.com Sku-724296, Sram Rival,gxp,68mm,175mm,50/34,110bcd. When you have a minute would you please verify that this indeed will work as a simple
swap out with my existing crankset and I will then add the Q-Rings.
Thank you Sir.
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Unless you are really tall 175mm is still lot of crank arm, what's your X-seam length ?
The Vendetta will make you want to mass more and that will be compounds by the 175mm arms but then offset by the rings

For the rival you want the new model with the remove-able spider. Old versions have the forged spider and the way the tech is heading forge spiders give you less power meter options.
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...t-not-included-rival-22-gxp-165mm-50-34-black

For the 175 you'll need to hit amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop

Pick 175mm 50x34 GXP as the option basically any option in the rival family that has 34 or 36T for the small ring will by definition be 110BCD
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
twhbent said:
x-seam is 42. I will go with the http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...t-not-included-rival-22-gxp-165mm-50-34-black.:):):):)
Will get the above ordered along with the Q-Rings, chain and master links.
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id225.html will be the next upgrade, those aluminum cans are getting harder to find.
Click to expand...

You knees will thank you; my X-seam is also 42 and on a yellow-v I can just get a good fit with 165mm without cutting the silver slider; and my knees bottom out at 92 degrees.
 
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