V20 Build - MBB newbie

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
I still think of that as "down" not forward

:)

Now I under understand. it looks like you are getting bit by the length of your boom; and the way the stalk rotated.

There's a shim from Rotor; I'll look the part number up. You put it on the derraillur and will let you shift it that last little bit; it's designed to solve that exact sort of conflict with Qrings. (They also make one that push the derailluer rear ward that solve the problem too although that second solution makes it a touch trickier to tune the first time.

Is this the part you meant ratz? https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Rotor/Front-Derailleur-Extension-Kit/3HKY
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Great. Looks similar to the one Jeremy posted, but is available from the UK. £28 - oof. I'm in the wrong business :)
 
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dtseng

Well-Known Member
You would be better off making your own shim. The separation of the two holes is critical, so the upper screw is not in the way of FD. You could also use thin metal shim to lift up the tail of FD cage. Shifting should be initiated by the tail section of FD cage.
 
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nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Say, that's a nice bike...

IMG_0636.JPG
Build complete - a few zip ties to trim and the rear derailleur still needs fine tuning. I took the uber-huge shimano cassette off and put an Sram 11-32 on instead. I'll see how it goes before deciding which ones to keep on.

I'll post more details in the morning, it's well past my bed time :)

Pretty nice though, don't you think?

A huge thanks to everyone who has helped me along the way, it would have been a much harder and slower task without you - much appreciated!

Cheers
 
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Say, that's a nice bike...

View attachment 5771
Build complete - a few zip ties to trim and the rear derailleur still needs fine tuning. I took the uber-huge shimano cassette off and put an Sram 11-32 on instead. I'll see how it goes before deciding which ones to keep on.

I'll post more details in the morning, it's well past my bed time :)

Pretty nice though, don't you think?

A huge thanks to everyone who has helped me along the way, it would have been a much harder and slower task without you - much appreciated!

Cheers
Do you have difficulty mixing the SRAM GX derailleur (Mtn = "X Actuation) and brifters (Road = "Exact Actuation")? There is a small variation in cable travel distance. I ordered a Jtek Shiftmate 9 so I can switch out my trigger shifters for brifters.
 

dtseng

Well-Known Member
Yes, that's a very nice bike. I'll place my order soon. By the way, what's the length of your chain stay. For persons like me with xsim 39, I would be kicking the pedals into the sky. I would prefer the BB just slightly above the lowest point of seat.
 
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nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Do you have difficulty mixing the SRAM GX derailleur (Mtn = "X Actuation) and brifters (Road = "Exact Actuation")? There is a small variation in cable travel distance. I ordered a Jtek Shiftmate 9 so I can switch out my trigger shifters for brifters.

There was a discussion about this earlier in the thread - the 10 speed MTB GX 2.1 derailleur is compatible with the 11 speed shifters so it appears to be OK. I still haven't got the rear gears shifting quite smoothly, it goes up all the way fine but doesn't drop back off the lowest gear to 2. Haven't had a chance to dial it in properly last night since I shortened the chain and changed the cassette, I ran out of time. Am assuming it's just needing some tweaks though. Every other gear changes fine.
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Yes, that's a very nice bike. I'll place my order soon. By the way, what's the length of your chain stay. For persons like me with xsim 39, I would be kicking the pedals into the sky. I would prefer the BB just slightly above the lowest point of seat.

I'll need to check that later and get back to you - but it's the standard chainstay that came with the frameset. Is there a particular measurement you want? I have xseam 45" so I was concerned the BB would be too low, but it seems OK. I think there may be a longer chainstay in my mid term future though :)
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
So the final list of everything on the bike is as follows, for anyone who was thinking of doing similar (6 bolt discs, wide cassette in particular):

2018 V20 frameset
Performance adjustable headrest
Carbon race case
Ventisit seat pad
Wheels - DT Swiss 240s MTB 6 bolt hubs, Pacenti Forza rims
Brakes - TRP HY/RD calipers and 160mm discs front and rear
Brifters - SRAM Force 22
Chainset - SRAM Force 22 50/34
Front Derailleur - SRAM Force 22
Rear Derailleur - SRAM Force 22 (edited to add this - I took off the GX 2.1 as per my comments below)
Cassette - SRAM Force 22 11-32

The only thing that isn't ideal is the front derailleur as per my comments previously in the thread - the braze on mount is too far away from the 50T chainring. I think if you had a larger chainring it would be fine. I have futzed it and it works, but I'm still not convinced it's going to be perfectly reliable. Time will tell.

Car park time! :)
 
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nobrakes

Well-Known Member
I also have the shimano 11-42 cassette sitting on standby once I've had a chance to get used to the bike and try the steep hills around here. It's impossible to know if I'll need it until I am able to control the bike properly and put full power through the cranks. I have about 2-3 hours on the bike so far, so still quite wobbly. I know that the shimano cassette doesn't fit with the derailleur as it stands, so would need the wolftooth road link to extend the derailleur range.
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Do you have difficulty mixing the SRAM GX derailleur (Mtn = "X Actuation) and brifters (Road = "Exact Actuation")? There is a small variation in cable travel distance. I ordered a Jtek Shiftmate 9 so I can switch out my trigger shifters for brifters.

Aaargh, I have been a complete dufus. What an idiot I am. Despite having all this explained clearly in the thread above (and having got a working 10 speed deraileur / 11 speed cassette combo), I forgot one vital piece of information. The 10 speed GX worked with the Shimano cassette because it's an 11 speed cassette spaced on a 10 speed free hub, but the Sram cassette is 11 speed spaced on an 11 speed freehub (I have both). Have just spent a fruitless hour realising my mistake. The Sram cassette is never going to work with this derailleur. So now I need to get yet another derailleur or go back to plan A and buy the wolf tooth road link and use the super wide shimano cassette. Man, I'm annoyed at myself. I'm sure I'll find a use for it in the future but it sure feels like I just wasted some hard earned money.

Edit: I have decided to go with a new Force 22 medium cage derailleur and shelve the shimano cassette / GX combination for now. I will edit the gear list above once it arrives and I have verified it works OK. Might be worth hanging onto for some of the more extreme sportives involving 20% hills, but I'll see how I do with the 50/34 11-32 combo first. The shimano cassette shifted absolutely fine but couldn't get into the lowest gear due to the size of the cassette - a wolf tooth would have worked with this as per Bill K's setup.
 
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nobrakes

Well-Known Member
I did two things tonight - firstly I replaced the GX with a Force 22 RD and all my rear shifting problems magically disappeared, along with a chunk more of my bank account. Secondly I went out for a test ride with SPDs on for the first time, and all I can say is WOW. It totally transforms the ride experience. I was barely thinking about pedal steer, it was so much easier (and intuitive) to control the bike when you can pedal full circles. Was happy sprinting up a hill and fairly caning it down the other side. Nothing too extreme of course given I only have about 3 hours on the bike so far, but, very comfortable, very rigid, great power transfer, fast as you like through the wind.

Me like! :)

So now I think the build is complete, the only thing left to do is fiddle with the front mech to try and get that working a bit better, and maybe some rubber between the headrest tubes and carbon tail box to quiten down the noise over the bumps. Other than that, I'm done. I have a new bike!
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Had my first proper run on the V20 today. A 25 mile 'out up and down back' run up the valley in a rare winter sun. Given that I have had so little time on the bike I wasn't pushing too hard and was a bit wobbly to start with (and there's the small matter of an FTP test I did yesterday, so pretty tired!) but I managed a couple of PRs and an overall average speed of over 18 mph. On the way home I was sitting on a basically flat road in upper zone 3 doing 26 mph - mental. Next time I will go out with fresh legs and cane it, I think there's a few KOMs within reach of my 42 year old engine :)

https://www.strava.com/activities/1260716770
 

RAR

Well-Known Member
It's really easy to go too fast too soon on these bikes. I suggest taking time to learn the bike's actions and reactions before going too fast.
Have you done the figure eight drills yet ? learn-to-ride We've all been there, some of us learned the hard way. Do the drills ,take your time, learn to relax into the bike, then go out kick butt!

Rick
 
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