I have and used both the adjustable and the regular head rest bars, and while both worked fine, I went with the regular ones simply because they are lighter. Yes, when the bullhorn bars were on a bit more of my forearms were sticking out. The bar-end TT shifters are probably a bit more aero than the brifters, but not much. I do have a Deda Tribar that with a AXS ETap Blips and CF bar-end brake levers could be pretty sweet. Also, I could probably twist the TT shifters and brake levers so that my wrists narrowed things out a little, but in the end I just went with the brifters since I am not ready to plop down that much money on a new groupset just yet.Frito...
I noticed that one of your photo's has the adjustable head rest... do you recommend it?
Your upturned bars seem to prevent the "tunnel" effect of the narrow bars at the top end of the
pedal stroke. I have already found that the drops get in the way during a turn.
Your hand positioning looks very do-able... I have to try that out.
Thanks.
Al_D, I was hoping for what you described when I flipped them over, but it was a combination of a couple or few of (1) having to reach too far for the TT levers, (2) the brake levers not being in a good position to apply brakes effectively, (3) the brake levers hitting my knees, (4) raising the bars high enough to be somewhat comfortable would have negated the aero benefits of going with a TT setup and/or (5) my fingers not really being able to wrap around the bar well enough for a comfortable position. That bar position does allow for a bit of elbow tuck, but at the expense of just about everything else. The Deda Tribar handles are a lot shorter than the aluminum bar handles I used, so that might solve 1, 3 and 5, and pointing them a little higher might solve 2 and 4 without giving up too much aero. The OEM bars are 31.8mm I believe but my Nittos are smaller so I had to use a sleeve. Some do prefer stock bars. They are good bars but I think that once people get accustomed to the bike they go more narrow to squeeze out every last bit of speed they can out of it.Frito...
You mentioned bullhorn bars in the first segment of you comments...
With them flipped upright and angled away from you, the ergo wrist angle would appear
to be comfortable... all the while allowing you to naturally tuck your elbows in and minimize drag.
My bike has GRX brifter/group so an upturned set of bullhorns looks like it will work, so long as the
bars will accomodate the brifter mount.
BTW... is the handlebar thing something everyone goes through cyclically (pun-ishment) with the
V20 setup?
I'm sure most riders prefer stock? Is that correct?
Makes me wonder if the war would have been different if one side had flared drop bars instead.gunner bars ... with the amount of weaving I was doing ... So, no gunner bars for a while for me
Andrew, looks like you have an aerodynamic deflector in front of your computer?I run a set of Gary bars with the ends cut off about 2 inches
Best set for me
Thank you, Yes I did. I had to Fab a mounting plate and draw up and 3D print a twist mount for the Computer to get it above the bars for a better connection to the Stages crank based power meter. I was bored one day and drew up the aero cover and printed it. I have also added some printed mirror covers.Hi Andrew...
I realize it's off-topic, but did you fabricate that aero computer mount?
If you did... well done. It looks very custom.
I just found the extensive treatment of "Bullhorn vs Drop Bars" on this Forum's Innovators Workshop...
It is so thorough, that I am sorry I didn't see it before starting this thread.
Of course, that was prior to discovering that my "stock" bars had been chopped/cut down.
Thanks to Maria and Morgan... I was able to order a new set of stock V20 bars that were "on the work bench"...
It's all good with the Customer Service at Cruzbike!