V20c RideRever Mechanical Brake Pads Replacement Question

[Rolling Along]

Has anyone replaced the brake pads for RideRever mechanical brakes? If so, what replacement pads did you use and where did you get it?

I have about 3800 miles on my V20c and the pads are getting worn down. I have never replaced disc pads before, but I have watched videos on how to do it and I understand about the different types. I believe the model is RideRever F160 MCX-2(PM) Mechanical Disc Brake. I don't think the OEM pads are sold. They have a cover that according to Robert Holler can be left off if the new pads are too thick. I think once I remove the pads it will be more obvious which pads I need for replacement. But, I would like to know my options before I have to take the cover off. If someone has done this it would make it easier for me to get the correct pads.

I am including a photo. I have cleaned it since the photo was taken (dusty road ride). I also have adjusted to pull more cable through over time as the pads wear out.

 

[Rolling Along]

I did just find these instructions for the brakes:

https://www.riderever.com/archive/download/seo/MCX-2%20PM-VF.pdf

Says it is compatible with Shimano K type disc brake pad shape. I also figured out to search for RideRever MCX-2. All of this assumes I have the correct part number.

This gives me a list:
Shimano K-type
Dura-Ace BR-R9170

Ultegra BR-R8070
105 BR-R7070

Tiagra BR-4770

GRX BR-RX810, BR-RX400

XTR BR-M9100

Metrea BR-U5000

BR-RS805
BR-RS505
BR-RS405
BR-RS305

Tektro
HD-R310

JAGWIRE®：

- DCA004, DCA704, DCA102, DCA504

 

[Robert Holler]

If you do not use the "actual" stock pads, you must remove the "heatsink" piece when using aftermarket pads. The reason is that the stock pads have a thinner backing plate than regular pads. If you use aftermarket pads with a thicker backing plate AND the "heatsink" then you will be always pinching the rotor. The "heatsink" if of minimal value anyway IMHO so when replacing pads on my bikes I have just removed it.

 

[Rolling Along]

After my last brake adjustment I found the rear pads rubbing. So I decided to remove just the rear pads for better understanding. There is a threaded pin (3 mm hex) that is supposed to have a clip on the other side. My clip was missing (there is a slot near the end of the pin where it is supposed to go). I removed the threaded pin and released the pinch bolt for the brake cable. But the cover would not come off because it hits the brake cable and there is not enough room between the brake and cover to pull the cover up and away. So I had to cut the brake cable at the end cap, remove the brake housing adjuster barrel and pull the cable through and away. Then I was able to remove the cover. I am including a photo of the cover, pad spring and pads after I removed them.

I have about 1 mm of pad remaining so I am going to order new pads. Also everything was dirty so I cleaned it. I then put everything back on the bike except I am leaving the cover off. Since there is no good way to remove the cover without shortening the brake cable each time, I am permanently leaving the cover off. The 1 mm of pad should be okay for a few more rides until I get new pads.

Since I am new to disc brake change/adjustments I found and watched the Park Tools video for removing and installing disc brake pads and the video for adjusting mechanical disc brake pads. I had adjusted my brakes as they wore by loosening the brake cable pinch bolt and tightening the cable. I moved the lever near where the brake mounts to the frame to get the cable tighter. Now I know from watching the videos that this is the wrong way to adjust. The lever looses its range of motion by doing this. I simply needed to tighten the pads from the sides using the 2 mm hex bolts (each side) designed for that purpose. So after installing the old rear pads, I went back and loosened the front brake cable for better lever range and used the side pad adjusting bolts.

One trick I learned from the Park tools video was to use 3 business cards as a gauge for about 1 mm. When adjusting the pads I used business card(s) to make sure I had my pads adjusted even on both sides. I made sure the card(s) slid in the same between pad and rotor with respect to left pad and right pad.