ak-tux
Zen MBB Master
A high Cadence comes with practise.
My cadence used to be 70-80 rpm on my DF a few years ago. But recently 3 years or so I have gradually improved my pedal stroke and deliberately practiced high cadence. Now at cruzing speed I can comfortably maintain between 90-100 rpm on the DF. My maximum rpm on a downhill is about 115 on my DF. My sweet spot is around 95 rpm.
On the my MBB recumbent, however, I deliberately try to maintain a similar cadence. On flat sections I can maintain 90-100 rpm by my estimates using ?Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator(http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html). It feels natural and easy around 90 rpm. However beyond 100 rpm it requires a lot more deliberate efffort to stabilse the wobbling effect.
On downhills, its a different story. It gets even more difficult to do a high cadence. I don't think I can come close to even 100 rpm downhill without feeling a yo-yo like effect. At high speeds downhill, it is safer to just coast, or shift to a high enough gear which may not be available (I have 48/38/28 and an 11-32 freewheel)
After coasting for some time, getting back to pedaling requires gradual increase on cadence otherwise it can cause a major wobble.
My cadence used to be 70-80 rpm on my DF a few years ago. But recently 3 years or so I have gradually improved my pedal stroke and deliberately practiced high cadence. Now at cruzing speed I can comfortably maintain between 90-100 rpm on the DF. My maximum rpm on a downhill is about 115 on my DF. My sweet spot is around 95 rpm.
On the my MBB recumbent, however, I deliberately try to maintain a similar cadence. On flat sections I can maintain 90-100 rpm by my estimates using ?Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator(http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html). It feels natural and easy around 90 rpm. However beyond 100 rpm it requires a lot more deliberate efffort to stabilse the wobbling effect.
On downhills, its a different story. It gets even more difficult to do a high cadence. I don't think I can come close to even 100 rpm downhill without feeling a yo-yo like effect. At high speeds downhill, it is safer to just coast, or shift to a high enough gear which may not be available (I have 48/38/28 and an 11-32 freewheel)
After coasting for some time, getting back to pedaling requires gradual increase on cadence otherwise it can cause a major wobble.