What do I have, please?

[bret]

I have the machine shown here:


Notes:

1. The chainring is elliptic. The front derailleur is a dummy to keep the chain on.
2. 8 speed, microShift derailleur with grip shift.
3. Tektro Aquilo brakes.
4. Chosen hubs.

I've been riding, and I'm comfortable now a Cruzbike is a good choice, but I have some questions:

1. What is that bellows above the fork crown, and what maintenance will it need?
2. What do you think of the seat back mounting? I don't know what that black plastic part is between the stays and the seat post.

The big question is - shall I put money into refurbishing and replacing some of the running gear, or should I start by buying a QX100 to get a reliable chassis to work with?

I can answer questions, and supply pictures (once I know how to do that) if you like. Insights and opinions would be helpful - I expect to replace all of the drivetrain, and perhaps make other mods besides. Good to get the foundation right before I start spending.

Thanks,
Bret

 

[Emeljay]

I have a Quest 3 which does not have front suspension on the fork. Your front fork appears to have suspension on the fork (the rubber piece on the fork just under the frame head tube). Also your frame has a different rear wheel dropout than my Q3, and a screw mount near that dropout. So you probably have a Q2.

I also have an X100. My Q3 and X100 have the same frame, but the components are different. I commute to work using both bikes, and also ride recreationally on both. I like both, and choose to ride one over the other simply because of needed maintenance issues or if one is apart because I'm changing out components.

Oh, and I don't race so I don't need a performance bike like the S or V.

So what type of riding do you do, or plan to do? And have you been riding and are comfortable riding the Quest you have...because it is a great bike to become comfortable riding a FWD MBB Cruzbike.

 

[super slim]

The bellows above the fork is a instem coil spring suspension with 20 mm of movement.
Can you get any movement out of the front?

The rear aluminium seat stays have been replaced as the originals are black, and I think the black plastic parts are just a back up.

I would move the drink bottle to the steerer tube so you can access it OR the seat back where there should be two sets of holes.

With the elliptical front chain ring, there was a 3 speed front hub, that has been replaced with a single speed hub.
What is the crank length as the original speedplay crank was 155 mm?
What is the tyre size on your Quest, as the original Quest V1 front, could only take 26"*1.35", V2 1.5", V3 1.75?"

The QX100 is a Quest 3 painted green, so I would keep the Quest V2 or 3 frame, unless the rear pivot is worn.
To check the rear pivot, lay the Quest over at 45 degrees, by holding the handle bars, and apply load to the rear pivot with your foot to see if there is any sideways movement.
This will also show if the wheel spokes are tight enough, and need to be tensioned, as the wheels will flex!

The rear suspension spring is adjustable in preload by rotating the outer bottom section, so you get about 20% wheel defection(80 mm max) when sitting on the bike.
A lot of Questers have upgraded to a Air bag rear suspension (Kind A5-RE air shock, 125mm) http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/qx-100-rear-shock-upgrade.11374/

 

[bret]

Commute, and recreation. I don't own a car.

I wanted to discover if I could use a CB before spending much money on another bicycle, and my only option was a Silvio (angular frame) which I knew I could trade for a Quest. The Silvio turned out to be a fast, straight line machine with no carrying capacity, so I traded it. It had a small air shock embedded in the front end, and an air pump to charge it, so I wondered if this one had such a requirement, or other maintenance issue which would make me prefer a QX100.

I can ride this machine just fine now - including navigating right angle train crossing gate paths without putting a foot down (mostly).

The drink bottle is screwed into the seat back. That black plastic part does not reach the seat back - I assume it's for some add-on, and it spaces the bottom of the aluminium brackets that reach the seat back.

There is no SRAM 3 speed hub (I have that on my Tern P24H - I know what it is). The crank arms are stamped "155". I added those MKS pedals.

It's difficult for me to say the front suspension moves - it might just be the tire. I don't see much obvious movement, while the rear is quite obvious. It's dark in Perth now, and 20mm isn't a lot. Not sure.

I don't note any obvious sideways movement at the rear swing arm pivot with the bike heeled over and me putting my foot sideways at the pivot.

The tires say "Kenda Kwest", (32-559) 26x1.25 100PSI.

It came with a short black stem - I added the long white one, which I think is better, and I may move the seat back which will just about allow me to stretch my arms out while riding. And perhaps a different handlebar - this one won't take any bag bracket I've found yet (Topeak, mostly).

I can replace/upgrade parts, or buy a QX100 if this has some terminal issue (like "the front suspension is a disaster" or suchlike). That's what I'm hoping to find out. A new QX100 will cost me ~AU$2600. I can buy a lot of upgrades if there's nothing fatally weak about the machine.

 

[bret]

I traded it with JT. I think it may be a first-production Q1.

 

[super slim]

Does your commute involve lots of hills, or flat?
If flat then your existing gearing with an elliptical chainring, and a 155 mm crank is perfect!

 

[bret]

Depends on where I live. I hope this bike will be with me for years. Thus the question of whether it's a good base to build on.

I might return to NZ, which has the hills, or another part of Oz. There's lots of flat in Perth, but I have a friend who lives up in the hills, and they won't take this on a bus. My Tern folds up and goes anywhere, anytime. Oh, well.

I am beginning to manage well with the current gears - I haven't had to get off to walk at all, just lean forward and pull on the bars.

And I haven't tried it with a load yet - panniers or a trailer.

 

[Doug Burton]

Looks like a first-production-run Quest. The original double chainring has been replaced with an "e-ring" as designed by John. The rear seat stays have been beefed-up a bit (rarely, I've seen these fail.) The steering stem has been replaced with one with a longer reach - not a bad modification. The plastic fitting behind the seat seems to be part of a rack attachment that's not currently installed. The front derailleur is being used as a chain-keeper. Without it, the chain will jump the chainring when shifting at the top or bottom of the cassette.

These early bikes are limited to 559 x 1.0 tires because of a tight fitting fork crown. This was done to allow the frame to fit in a suitcase when folded.

I have one of these and it's served me very well. It lives at the beach house now.

 

[castlerobber]

8 speed, microShift derailleur with grip shift.

I think it may be a first-production Q1.

It looks like a version 1 Quest with a few version 2 mods. The Schrader-drilled rims match V1 specs, as do the Tektro Aquilo brakes, and Microshift shifters and derailleurs. (The original cassette was 9-speed, though.) The e-ring and single crankset are V2/V3, as are the thumbscrews attaching the seat.

The front suspension is listed in the old specs I found as having 40mm travel. As it's part of the fork and not the frame, you could replace the fork with a Quest 3/QX100 unsuspended fork. CB will sell you one, but they're currently out of stock. This would allow you to put wider 26" tires on.

As long as the frame is sound--and it looks clean in your photo--you have a fun platform to upgrade.

 

[Tuloose]

I have an old Freerider with essentially the same front suspension.
I think the suspension fork is maintenance free - at least I have not had to do anything to it.
The suspension does work if it takes a hard hit. I can feel it when I roll into my driveway where there is a 1" lip.

 

[bret]

Thanks for the replies. I think that settles the question of replace or upgrade - upgrade (after checking carefully again).

Can you say what the rationale is for having the seat parts held together by thumbscrews? Dis-assembly for packing comes to mind, but I need a wrench anyway, don't I?

 

[super slim]

Thanks for the replies. I think that settles the question of replace or upgrade - upgrade (after checking carefully again).

Can you say what the rationale is for having the seat parts held together by thumbscrews? Dis-assembly for packing comes to mind, but I need a wrench anyway, don't I?
I think that everyone rides with a multitool that can hold the head and use the plastic thumb screw to undo quickly.
Not many people carry a 8 or 10 mm open spanner with them, unless you are disassembling it to fit in a suitcase!

 

[castlerobber]

Can you say what the rationale is for having the seat parts held together by thumbscrews? Dis-assembly for packing comes to mind

Yes, disassembly for doing a (relatively) quick fold to fit the bike in the trunk/boot of a car, for instance. Loosen the thumbscrews, undo the QR on the seatpost, and off comes the seat. Remove the rear wheel, release the QR on the shock, and you can fold the rear stays forward under the frame.

The seat should have had a black plastic protective molding fitted around the edges. I imagine you could also buy that from CB if you wanted one. Or make your own with tape or Plasti-Dip.

 

[bret]

I hadn't thought of the car aspect - that makes sense. My shock doesn't have a QR - is that a special item? Can I buy one?

The Quest came with the protective moulding - I took it off so it wouldn't fall off. If I put it back, I'll use some spots of silicon sealer to hold it in place.

I've placed an order with CB for a new seat pad set, a Ventisit pad (summers in Perth go to 45C - over 110F, although I suppose I'd be daft to ride on those days - "Mad dogs and Englishmen"), and a rack. I'm also contacting the Australian dealer for Bacchetta handlebars after reading @castlerobber 's post about that - I would like more space.

I'm going to drill the cracks near the joint of the seat back & pan to stop them spreading, and contemplate what else to do about that.

 

[super slim]

The quest fits in the back of a Hyundai i30 with just the rear wheel removed and the front triangle folded back 170 degrees.
The seat removal is only required if using a car hitch car 3 bike rack, if you are fitting 3 bikes to it, as the Cruzbike seat takes up two bike spaces.