When did you purchase your Vendetta? I distinctly remember reading somewhere that Cruzbike was going to start including shims with frame sets for the new Shimano BB cups. This concerns me because I already have a new DA BB. You know, I think I'll just take Bob's advice and get the SS version of the BB he recommended. Solves a host of potential issues.
What I learned building out a pair of 2016 V20 Vendettas
- Thread starter Doug Kline
- Start date
pedlpadl
Well-Known Member
A couple of days before Christmas.
I can definitely say that this is not the case and if it was somewhere it wasn't posted by a Cruzbike employee for sure. The challenges of the BB are ones that we are working on. As always - stay tuned as always good things are coming from Cruzbike!
Robert
Can't recall where I saw mention of it, possibly was a post here but it would have been about a year ago. Maybe the shim was a special item made by someone? It shouldn't be too difficult to make if someone really wants to stick with the latest Shimano BB. Thanks for the correction and I eagerly await any new products from Cruzbike!
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Ah, another tease...Okay I'm tuned in!
scabinetguy
Well-Known Member
I use the new Shimano BB. I made a simple shim. No problems at all.
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Says the guy who built a Silvetta!
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Yep that was scabinetguy who just posted those photo of the shim.
PeteClark
Active Member
I'm starting my own Vendetta build and learned a lot from the this community. I thought I was prepared to deal with the front brake issue, but found that if I added enough washers to get my Shimano 105 brake pads clear of the fork, the brake pivot bolt wouldn't reach far enough through the front wall of the fork to expose 6-8 threads for a longer nut to catch. I thought about drilling from the back of the fork to enlarge the hole in the inner side of the front wall of the fork, so that an even longer nut could reach more threads, but decided to take an alternate route. I shortened the brake pads. I filed down the pad retainer, and trimmed the pad with a box cutter.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
If I understand what you ran into, You should be able to get a longer nut that will reach further into the fork. Those use to be included with the frame kit but I noticed they were missing in the new ones. I suspect this is because almost all new brakes come with multiple nuts of different lengths because of all the exotic forks that people now us.
This query should get you to the right area; you are looking for Recessed Brake Mounting Nut Probably need a 22 or 30 mm for a 105 but that is just a guess I would measure. They are cheap enough though that you can order a couple sized.
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/components/brakes-parts/brake-parts/mounting-and-hardware
If the bolt itself is really just too short period I would check that it's not a Rear brake (yeah I've made that mistake bought a "front" from ebay and they sent me a rear). in either case you can get replacement bolts from the same link and they aren't that hard to swap out. A 105 front bolt set is about $16US
pedlpadl
Well-Known Member
I had the same issue. I went to the LBS and they gave me a longer sleeve nut from an old bike.
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Brakes - one of those necessary "evils" I guess - they slow you down - or are supposed to. (track bikes are nice because the brakes "built" into the cranks!)
I hardly ever use mine - I find if I just lay over and slide on my "armor" I can stop much faster!
jond
Zen MBB Master
george watch out for that tree............................................. seriously larry an old adage was if you are not falling off occasionally you are not trying.
(but that was mountain biking...... ) you are on the limits larry going so fast.
PeteClark
Active Member
Re: Longer brake nut: A 30mm nut hits the inside of the front wall of the fork before the head of the nut hits the outside of the back wall (where it should seat). The front brake bolt (definitely not the rear), with sufficient spacers to get the 105 brake pads clear of the fork, doesn't show 6-8 threads inside the fork. I was also concerned about having the bolt extend so far out in front of the fork, potentially increasing the bending force on the bolt.
Re: Sliding on your side to stop: In my experience, the initial coefficient of friction between skin and asphalt is pretty high, but a little blood between the two allows you to slide further.
Re: Sliding on your side to stop: In my experience, the initial coefficient of friction between skin and asphalt is pretty high, but a little blood between the two allows you to slide further.
jond
Zen MBB Master
hi pete sounds like the fork is a bit of a problem getting the correct length nut and or spacer. i just ordered some 6800 shimano calipers and i hope they come optioned
not sure i could cut down the brake pad and holder but it is an option.Jond, all you need is a longer sleeve nut as ratz posted. I have longer nuts since my Dura-Ace AX days, seems like Shimano used to provide longer nuts back then. You can get similar items from the links ratz provided. There's always a solution a parts retailer could provide without resorting to something more permanent.hi pete sounds like the fork is a bit of a problem getting the correct length nut and or spacer. i just ordered some 6800 shimano calipers and i hope they come optioned
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Yikes that sounds like a lot of spacers then or the 105 has a short bolt and a steep angle relative to the bolt. I'd be a little nervous on that cut pad arm. But, I'm guessing you are saving up for a new brake and the cut pad is temp fix. My concern would be if that pad bolt lets go from the metal. But then again if you don't brake much
....
MrSteve
Zen MBB Master
Yikes .... -But then again if you don't brake much
Pro tip: braking slows you down.
