Where to clamp my S40 on Repair Stand

david_kcmo

Active Member
Bought a Park Tool PCS 10.2 Bike Stand. So, where is the best place to clamp it? FYI, I have a 3 cog set (if that's the right term) on the front so there is a cable coming down the boom arm (the one that the handle bars are attached to). Thoughts?
 

Greg S

Well-Known Member
I turn the clamp on my stand (I've both a Park and a Feedback Sports) so that the clamp mirrors the angle of the boom and lower it so the front wheel will only be a few inches off the floor (depending on what I'm doing). That way I'm not clamping on any cables.
 

david_kcmo

Active Member
I turn the clamp on my stand (I've both a Park and a Feedback Sports) so that the clamp mirrors the angle of the boom and lower it so the front wheel will only be a few inches off the floor (depending on what I'm doing). That way I'm not clamping on any cables.
how are you not clamping on cables? I have a cable that runs down my boom arm to front derailleur?
 

Greg S

Well-Known Member
On mine there is enough slack in the cable that I just pull it out a little from the boom before clamping. The cable runs down the lower RHS of the boom (as seated on the bike) at roughly the 4:00 position so it only needs to move a little bit to move it out of the way and there's plenty enough slack to allow that.
 

david_kcmo

Active Member
On mine there is enough slack in the cable that I just pull it out a little from the boom before clamping. The cable runs down the lower RHS of the boom (as seated on the bike) at roughly the 4:00 position so it only needs to move a little bit to move it out of the way and there's plenty enough slack to allow that.
Thank you. One more question: Where on the boom? Closer to the front wheel or closer to handle bars? Also, how do you stop rotation of the bike? Is it by keeping the front wheel really, really close to floor so not a very high angle?
 

Greg S

Well-Known Member
I was a bit fast and loose with my terminology. The pieces of the front end (in Cruzbike's terms, I think) moving from the crankset to the handlebars are respectively: boom, boom clamp, pivot clamp, slider. Just to make sure it's clear, the pivot clamp is the clamp that's connected to the top of the steerer tube.

I normally clamp between the pivot clamp and boom clamp. That raises the front end plenty high enough to allow dropping the wheel down (also controlled by the height adjustment on the stand).

To stop the bike from rotating, I have a block of wood (a piece of an old railroad tie) about 8" tall that I put under the rear wheel. Usually, I just wedge it against the back of the wheel but if I want the bike to be really stable I:
  1. Raise the stand up a bit higher than I think I'll need it when working.
  2. Clamp the front end into the stand. Note that I leave the clamp lock that controls its ability to rotate loose so it's able to rotate while doing this.
  3. Because the clamp is loose, I'm able to easily lift the back wheel up and put the block of wood complete underneath it.
  4. Lower the stand to whatever working height I want.
Hope this helps.
 

david_kcmo

Active Member
I was a bit fast and loose with my terminology. The pieces of the front end (in Cruzbike's terms, I think) moving from the crankset to the handlebars are respectively: boom, boom clamp, pivot clamp, slider. Just to make sure it's clear, the pivot clamp is the clamp that's connected to the top of the steerer tube.

I normally clamp between the pivot clamp and boom clamp. That raises the front end plenty high enough to allow dropping the wheel down (also controlled by the height adjustment on the stand).

To stop the bike from rotating, I have a block of wood (a piece of an old railroad tie) about 8" tall that I put under the rear wheel. Usually, I just wedge it against the back of the wheel but if I want the bike to be really stable I:
  1. Raise the stand up a bit higher than I think I'll need it when working.
  2. Clamp the front end into the stand. Note that I leave the clamp lock that controls its ability to rotate loose so it's able to rotate while doing this.
  3. Because the clamp is loose, I'm able to easily lift the back wheel up and put the block of wood complete underneath it.
  4. Lower the stand to whatever working height I want.
Hope this helps.
Just to beat this one to death (I do appreciate your help), you clamp down in the space highlighted. This is not a pic of my bike but it looks pretty close.
 

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Greg S

Well-Known Member
Yes, that's the spot although I have clamped it between the boom clamp and the crank. There's really no "right" way to do it but I've found the overall setup to be a bit more stable when clamped as described above and in the area shown in your picture.
 
you clamp down in the space highlighted
That's where I clamp. I have my cable to the front derailleur running down the side of the boom, not using the guide attached to the boom/slider clamp. It probably catches more wind there, but I use the Park stand enough to justify having it out of the way. Alternately you can have the cable going down the centerline, held in with tape. The jaws of the stand have a channel to allow for this.
 

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
9E702ECA-97ED-4551-802A-FD1ABA421B17.jpeg
This is a V20 but should be similar to your S40 in terms of placing it in the stand. My FD cable and housing are in the center channel that Mathew mentioned.
 

Sketch44

Member
Bought a Park Tool PCS 10.2 Bike Stand. So, where is the best place to clamp it? FYI, I have a 3 cog set (if that's the right term) on the front so there is a cable coming down the boom arm (the one that the handle bars are attached to). Thoughts?
Has anyone tried using the Park Tool 9.3 to clamp the main frame of an S40? Is it big enough? Or does someone know that dimension so I can compare to the clamp specs? There is one used for sale here in town but don't want to buy and find out it doesn't work.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
The 9.3 will work. Clamp to the boom. That's the fancier version of what I have used for about 7 years
 

Sketch44

Member
I was just coming on here to say the 9.3 has the same max capacity as the 10.3. Looks like the 10.3 has an easier clamping mech and some other bells and whistles but should work basically the same.
 

Merczak73

Active Member
Looking on Park's website, the 100-3D, 5D and 25D should all fit the curved main tube of the S40. That is what is used at the bike shop I frequent. I am a bit put out that the 3D line clamps are not interchangeable with 3C line of clamps. I have had a Park bike stand with the 3C line of clamps since high school. However, I cannot buy a D level clamp to put in the bike stand housing to repair my cruzebike. Color me frustrated.
 
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