working with the chain

[rdl03]

I've seen a couple related posts, but haven't found any good answers. I'm a big fan of a clean drivetrain, and, in particular, of the Park Chain tool. I try to clean my chain every 200K, which, for me, translates into every other ride.

The Park tool isn't very effective if the chain isn't parallel to the ground.
I have my S40 in the stand right now, with the back supported by a strap from the ceiling. That's awkward, and still not high enough.

Has anyone found a solution (more than a rag with degreaser on it) that doesn't require hoisting the back end of the bike? Do any other chain cleaners work well at an angle?

thanks!

 

[Gregory Carlsen]

Rock N Roll red lube and Rock N Roll Gold for wetter times. Follow the application instructions and be sure to wipe the excess off the derailleur wheels to avoid build up. These lubes do both the cleaning and lubing. You can put your Park chain cleaner tool on the shelf along with the cone wrenches.

In the SoCal climate I mostly use the red lube with an occasional application of the gold.

 

[Mathew Fy]

For easy removal & reinstall I recommend the Wippermann Connex.
Get an ultrasonic cleaner.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Unfortunately the makers are focusing on DF bikes with a level chain because that is where the biggest market is and probably easier to design from an engineering standpoint. About the only thing I can think of is using a re-usable quick link and removing the chain for a clean/re-lube. I don't know how many times you can actually re-use one though.

 

[bladderhead]

Cruzbike does not need masterlink. Remove the wheel and unscrew the tensioner and slide the chain out without breaking it. But you have to be very clever to put it back without getting in a frightful twist.

 

[RAR2]

Hot wax your chain, good for 1000 miles, very clean.

 

[Gary123]

Cruzbike does not need masterlink. Remove the wheel and unscrew the tensioner and slide the chain out without breaking it. But you have to be very clever to put it back without getting in a frightful tw

 

[Gary123]

Seems easier to break the chain.

 

[John Crawford]

Hot wax your chain, good for 1000 miles, very clean.

I agree. Doesn't get black grunge on everything and lasts forever. I have chains with 10K miles on them.

 

[chicorider]

I agree. Doesn't get black grunge on everything and lasts forever. I have chains with 10K miles on them.

Same here. It doesn't make chain maintenance disappear, but it is so much cleaner, lasts a while between waxings, and shifts well.

 

[rdl03]

Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe it's time to give hot wax a try.

 

[Bill Wightman]

At risk of b

Hot wax your chain, good for 1000 miles, very clean.

At risk of being redundant, I have to agree. Be sure to get it real clean and real dry before you wax it. I leave the chain in the oven at 170 deg F for a couple hours. I usually leave it in the wax overnight. It is almost fun in a bike nerd kind of way. I just melt small chunks of plain candle paraffin on low in a small dedicated Crock Pot.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Just bought a BBB Chainchecker BTL125 today and measured my 12-speed KMC chain with about 12,000km.

0.75 which shows I should replace the chain soon.

I wasn't as meticulous as I could have been about wiping the chain down after every ride, and even sometimes went around 500km without reapplying WD40 over the past 15 months or so. I almost never rode in the rain but it goes to show that WD40 isn't that bad. Yes, waxing has some pros over WD40 and other wet lubes such as a couple of saved watts, ungunky chain and cogs, and is even a bit therapeutic/placebotic(?).

However, be a bit careful about applying new wax before the old wax completely wears off. While waxing does coat the important bits, that many rpms on the cranks and articulations on each of the rollers and pins on the chain is going to wear off the wax probably faster than you think. You might not even notice it due to the tight manufacturing quality and tolerances on chains these days, but the last thing you want is to have the wax be rubbed off and let rust start settling into the rollers and pins where you can't see it. If it does settle there then it will start eating into the already small driveline friction advantage wax has over wet lubes, which in a lot of cases is only 1 watt.

 

[Gregory Carlsen]

The way I see it if your the type that likes fiddling with your bike and you can't tolerate a little bit of build up than hot wax is probably the way to go.
On the other hand if you want something that works and takes a minimal amount of your time, than I would take a hard look at the rock n roll lubes.

There are probably other similar products as well but my experience is with the rock n roll stuff.

 

[artchris0002@yahoo.com]

I have switch on all my Cruzbike to hot wax. Just visit Goodwill and pick up a used Crockpot. I just use hot (Boiling ) water to clean the chain. Cook the chain in the hot water for half an hour. The wax melts and floats to the surface of the water. Dry chain and then cook it in the hot wax for half an hour to re-wax. Seems to work great.

 

[Bill Wightman]

I have switch on all my Cruzbike to hot wax. Just visit Goodwill and pick up a used Crockpot. I just use hot (Boiling ) water to clean the chain. Cook the chain in the hot water for half an hour. The wax melts and floats to the surface of the water. Dry chain and then cook it in the hot wax for half an hour to re-wax. Seems to work great.

I only use plain paraffin block wax now and tend to think the process is fun. I am not sure I would boil a chain as that may slowly normalize any heat treatment or work hardening that was designed into it which will cause it to stretch more easily. What I do is a warm soapy ultrasonic scrub for about an hour with turning every 20 minutes. Then I rinse in warm water then bake-out that water at 170 deg F for about an hour, then leave in the wax crock pot overnight on low to get the wax to propagate deeply into the joints. The bake-out might be weakening the chain but I have not seen any evidence of that.

 

[IyhelM]

It’s been a while since I last had a look at heat treatment charts but I doubt anything below 350°F for several hours in a row would affect your chain.
Finally switched to beeswax on my old V, will not go back to lube, it’s so much cleaner including after a few drizzles - even if the first 50km shifting was noisy and awkward.
It’s probably reached 500km, not sure what maintenance interval is best. In any case, it’s not much more hassle than a thorough scrubbing with lube - actually it is less as you only have to wait and stir the chain a bit during the bathes…

 

[Black Hawk Down]

I'm a fan of Squirt. It's easy to apply and has one of the best longevity and lowest friction ratings. It slowly flakes off, taking dirt and gunk with it. I never clean my chains, just add more Squirt. Only reason to replace the chain is when it stretches too long. My old knees are weaker than the chain, so that doesn't happen very often.