WTB Mountain Road Bars on Silvio!!

Mark B

Mark B

Zen MBB Master
Hotdog wrote: I'd be slightly wary of the argument that handlebars on a Silvio are subject to smaller loads than on an upright road bike. Handlebars on most recumbents are indeed subject to very light loads (just steering forces) but MBB FWD bikes are different as you can be expected to pull (hard) on the bars in order to use upper body strength to assist your pedalling action. I would imagine the peak stresses on the handlebars of a Silvio would be similar to those of an upright road bike, in both cases it's not due to the weight they bear but is determined by how hard the rider pulls on the bars (and that can be a lot more than the weight of the rider's upper body). The main difference would be that a rider on a upright road bike pulls the bars mostly upwards while standing to climb/sprint whereas the equivalent action on a Silvio involves pulling the bars mostly backwards.
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While I have my doubts that the occasional hard pulling we do climbing or sprinting exerts near the stress that the constant load and occasional stress of pushing/pulling a standing rider throws into the bar, I certainly have no way of validating any claim of mine. So, it's a moot point. If it came right down to it, and a rider was injured with this bar even unmodified, the lawyers may claim they are not responsible because the bar was not designed to be used like we're going to use them. :|

Hotdog wrote: So, I'd say a Silvio will want similar strength in the handlebars as an upright road bike, but that doesn't mean trimming the bars is necessarily a bad plan. The ends of the bars below your hand position contribute nothing to structural strength, so cutting a little off below the final bend in order to increase leg clearance/reduce weight/get a cool new look won't weaken them.
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Exactly my thought. I've modified many handlebars over the years. Homemade chop and drop bull horn bars and such.
Hotdog wrote: I would ride with the bars unmodified for a while first though, to establish just how much of the bars you're actually making use of in practice.
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Again, I agree. I'm going to ride the full bar for awhile and try and think how it would be with some material removed. Brian could very well be right, that last bit of the drops might make a great alternative hand position on long rides. But I think the look of the chopped bar could be irresistable. Kind of like Brian. ;) :lol: :lol:

Mark
 
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Nanda H.

Active Member
Brian Lewis wrote: Well I was unhappy with the clearance between my hands and knees on the 44cm bar that came with my donor bike. I also didn't like the lack of leverage the 44cm gave me. I was also seeking to angle my hands a bit for more comfort. I found a way to solve all 3 problems in the WTB Mountain Road Bar 25.4mm size!!

I bought one from Elitecycling.biz for $53, they were quick to ship about 1-2 days after I ordered.

The 25.4mm bar fits perfectly in the Silvio stock mount. I didn't have to modify anything. The clamps fit like a glove and the sleeves fit super snug with plenty of clamp room to go.

I now have oodles of clearance around my knees, and when turning the bars don't dig into my thighs

My hands are now at a more comfortable 30 degree angle

Bar is a whopping 60cm wide, 30 degree angled 127mm shorty drops!!
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Brian, it says "WTB Mountain Road bars are not compatible with bar end shifters, only STI index shifters."

Could you do me a favor and confirm the inside diameter for the end of you handlebar? I can note why they make the statement unless the I.D. is too small.

I rode my Silvio around at lunch again and would like to make a bar swap from the Nitto Noodle to either they WTB Road Drop or the Origin8 Gary bar. Good chance I'll order both and do a photo comparison of both, but from looking at Mark's Gary bar photo's they have a pronounced droop rather then a straight section on either side of the clamping area. I am already litely contacting my legs on the underside of the Nitto bar and thing the Gary bar would cause more interference, but could be wrong.

Mark, if you read this could you post a direct side view, direct level front view and maybe a top down view of your Gary bar.

Thanks, in advance Silvio pilots :D

For reference here is the 310g aluminum Origin8 Gary bar http://www.comcycle-usa.com/ProductInfo.aspx?id=2878144
Picture.aspx


...and here is the 460g WTB Mountain Road Drop Bar http://wtb.com/products/components/handlebar/mountainroaddropbar/
mountainroaddropbar.jpg


I do like the 150g wt. savings at 1/3rd the cost the Gary bar offers.
 
Mark B

Mark B

Zen MBB Master
Nanda H. wrote: [Mark, if you read this could you post a direct side view, direct level front view and maybe a top down view of your Gary bar.

Thanks, in advance Silvio pilots :D
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I will make that my mission in life tonight!

Mark
 
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Brian Lewis

Member
Inner Diameter at the bar ends on the WTB Mountain Road Bar is 17.5mm
This is going to be slightly smaller than a standard road bar since the outer diameter is also 25.4 vs 26
My BlackBurn Multimirror that I love to use just barely squeezes into the end. I don't know if its the MultiMirror or Mountain version though, both are offered at Performance and I don't know which one I bought, but I love it! Great view of the lane to the side of my and the lane behind me.
 
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Nanda H.

Active Member
Brian Lewis wrote: Inner Diameter at the bar ends on the WTB Mountain Road Bar is 17.5mm
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Thanks Brian, I will measure the O.D. on the DA barcons, but I am sure WTB's info is correct.

Any regrets about using the Ultegra STI's? On the next Silvio build I'll probably try a full SRAM Rival or Force kit with a compact crankset, as they run the cable up the bars, and the Double Tap action the bomb...
 
Mark B

Mark B

Zen MBB Master
Nanda H. wrote:
Brian Lewis wrote: Inner Diameter at the bar ends on the WTB Mountain Road Bar is 17.5mm
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Thanks Brian, I will measure the O.D. on the DA barcons, but I am sure WTB's info is correct.

Any regrets about using the Ultegra STI's? On the next Silvio build I'll probably try a full SRAM Rival or Force kit with a compact crankset, as they run the cable up the bars, and the Double Tap action the bomb...
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I thought pretty hard about going the compact route. I questioned a lot of people that I knew were running compact stuff. The impression I was left with was; for doing lots of big climbing, the compact is great, but sucks for spinning out on downhills and sprints on the flats. If you fall out of a paceline with compact stuff, I get the impression there is no getting back on. But it is all the rage. The other thing I learned from my LBS guy was they are seeing a lot of premature chainring wear. It seems the compact set-up encourages a lot more cross chain action, which causes the chain to wear the sides of the chainrings prematurely. I was even shown a sample, grabbed randomly off the workbench. This was from a guy that had everything to gain by selling me new equipment, so I decided to stick with my old school triple I already had.

Mark
 
JonB

JonB

Zen MBB Master
Then get a sram dual drive which has a internal 3 speed hub + an 8? speed derailure.
 
Mark B

Mark B

Zen MBB Master
I'm not Campy quite sure Campy what to tell you Campy, Nanda. I'm pretty sure Campy that something will Campy pop into your Campy head sooner Campy or later.

Good Campy Luck,

Mark
 
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Nanda H.

Active Member
Ordered a WTB bar this morning, $61 now. Couldn't get it through my supplier so I had to pay retail....oh...the horror.

Still may be the Gary bar to which might work well on the crank forward bikes to.
 
Mark B

Mark B

Zen MBB Master
Nanda H. wrote: Ordered a WTB bar this morning, $61 now. Couldn't get it through my supplier so I had to pay retail....oh...the horror.
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If you're dead-set on running barcons on that bar, you can probably take that to even a garage machinist and open them up enough to take them. Mark Stonich has an excellent tutorial on how to do it on his site.

Mark
 
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Nanda H.

Active Member
Mark B wrote:
Nanda H. wrote: Ordered a WTB bar this morning, $61 now. Couldn't get it through my supplier so I had to pay retail....oh...the horror.
Click to expand...

If you're dead-set on running barcons on that bar, you can probably take that to even a garage machinist and open them up enough to take them. Mark Stonich has an excellent tutorial on how to do it on his site.

Mark
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Already played that scenerio in my noggin, but a pair of Pauls Thumbies mounted near the center would work quite well also, as I don't tend to shift much (planning ahead and dropping gears before the climb) on climbs. I also wouldn't mind the Bar End shifter cable being further up the bars, as I was grabbing it uncomfortable with the tips of my fingers when practicing sprinting.
 
Mark B

Mark B

Zen MBB Master
Nanda H. wrote: Already played that scenerio in my noggin, but a pair of Pauls Thumbies mounted near the center would work quite well also, as I don't tend to shift much (planning ahead and dropping gears before the climb) on climbs. I also wouldn't mind the Bar End shifter cable being further up the bars, as I was grabbing it uncomfortable with the tips of my fingers when practicing sprinting.
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Maybe try the thumbies just above the brake hoods, though it could make it challenging to wrap the bars.

Mark
 
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nickberg

New Member
Any more thoughts about your set up? I ride a sofrider with 700c and plan to order the silvio frame soon. should I look for a donor bike on ebay or order components? I was thinking about a double ultegra and the wtb bars. I ride with a club that goes 30 mi at 20 mph and it is flat here in Delaware.
 
Mark B

Mark B

Zen MBB Master
nickberg wrote: Any more thoughts about your set up? I ride a sofrider with 700c and plan to order the silvio frame soon. should I look for a donor bike on ebay or order components? I was thinking about a double ultegra and the wtb bars. I ride with a club that goes 30 mi at 20 mph and it is flat here in Delaware.
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You'll probably save money if you shop around for a donor bike. Plus, you can sell the frame and parts you don't need and make some of it back.

Mark
 
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