Yes, it is! (was: Or maybe not (was: My Vendetta is a survivor (was: My Vendetta V1.0 is dying)))

[benphyr]

So the vendetta derailleur hanger doesn’t match the v20 chain stay. Have you already checked the other side to see whether your fork will match the v20 hanger? More pictures might be required.

I have a brand new 2019 s40 hanger that I could send but I don’t know if that will fit.

 

[Tor Hovland]

So the vendetta derailleur hanger doesn’t match the v20 chain stay. Have you already checked the other side to see whether your fork will match the v20 hanger? More pictures might be required.

You beat me to it. This isn't going to work:



Never mind the derailleur hanger, then. I have bigger problems.

@Robert Holler, do you by any chance have a V1.0 chainstay that I can buy?

If not, what's the best way to keep my bike alive? Replacing the fork and then using Larry's chainstay? Or replace the whole front end with V20 parts? That still depends pretty heavily on Cruzbike having those spare parts available.

In the meantime, I suppose my only option is to keep using the clamp hack. The good news is that it has worked remarkably well so far this summer.

 

[benphyr]

All of the meeting points need to match so:
-the new Larry’s chain stay fits your bb and the bearing clamp on your boom will fit, right?
-A new fork would need to match the Larry chain stay with the derailleur hanger.
-are there any different fork steerer tube diameters in use on these bikes or are they all the same specs?
-are there any differing headsets in use.

A complete front triangle would solve all three parts of the front triangle leaving only questions about the headsets.

@super slim do you have dimensions ?@LarryOz Do you know what version this chain stay is for?

 

[LarryOz]

@LarryOz Do you know what version this chain stay is for?

I am pretty sure it was originally for my red Vendetta, which I think was 2015. I rode it to my first ever WUCA record - sub 4-hour Century.
here is the picture when I was done - and you can see the chainstay:
Funny - I was really disappointed that Cruzbike did away with the yellow Big Boom look, and so I had the front end powder-coated all silver to kind of give it that "look".

 

[Tor Hovland]

I am pretty sure it was originally for my red Vendetta, which I think was 2015. I rode it to my first ever WUCA record - sub 4-hour Century.
here is the picture when I was done - and you can see the chainstay:

Yes, that's clearly the one. Nice to know it's a record setting chainstay! Too bad I cannot use it.

All of the meeting points need to match so:
-the new Larry’s chain stay fits your bb and the bearing clamp on your boom will fit, right?
-A new fork would need to match the Larry chain stay with the derailleur hanger.
-are there any different fork steerer tube diameters in use on these bikes or are they all the same specs?
-are there any differing headsets in use.

Yes, the clamp ends of the chainstays seem identical. And I can't imagine the steerer tubes and head tubes being different, hence the headsets shouldn't be either.

Which means I either need a V1 chainstay, or a V2 fork to go with Larry's chainstay. Or a new front triangle. Or a new bike...

 

[chicorider]

The Vendetta fork has not changed since the v.2 came out (except for the spacing being bumped from 130 to 132.5mm to accommodate both 130 and 135mm hubs, but that does not matter here). Short of somebody having a v.1 chainstay lying around, you are more likely to find the fork. I would imagine that CB would have a small supply of them as crash replacements.

 

[JerseyJim]

I know I'm late to this thread and given that you've done the 1001 Miglia already on the Vendetta (great video), you've probably got this all sorted. However, for future reference and for anyone who might be facing the same cracking issue I have a possible repair solution. I've used these aluminum brazing rods called HTS2000 and they work well. In fact I used them to construct the seatback pannier mount on my T50. You can use a propane torch or MAPP gas. The latter has a hotter flame.

From the look of the crack that part is toast anyway so not much to loose in trying it. The application videos for HTS2000 would indicate that this kind of repair is within the scope of the material and would potentially make a durable and permanent fix. This is, of course, provided that the rest of part is not fatigued as well. The good part about it is that unlike welding, the temperature for brazing is well below the melting point of aluminum alloys so the process should not affect the heat treatment. The downside is that for large parts you have to do something to concentrate the heat near the area you want to repair or else you will be there a long time heating the entire part to near brazing temperature just to get that one crack repaired. Muggy Weld has a product that slows heat migration so that heat can stay concentrated. I've had good results using drywall putty/paste as a low cost alternative.

Anyway, just a few ideas in case anyone is daring enough to pull out a torch and go at it.

 

[Andrew Wilson]

Thanks for the info.

 

[Tor Hovland]

I'm sorry I haven't provided any update on this, but the short version is that everything is fine!

Cruzbike wasn't entirely sure if a V20 fork would work, but they offered to send me one that I could return if it didn't. I was pretty confident it would, and it did. A nice bonus is that I can now use a wider front tire than 25mm, and I can also fit a front disc brake. I haven't got the bike entirely ready, because I need a longer brake hose to make it work, and winter is just around the corner anyway.

But yes, next season I'll be back with a better Vendetta than ever! Thanks, everybody, for helping out!

And by coincidence or karma, I was able to help shortly after, when Larry needed a V1 fork to fix a broken bike he had collected for his Cruzbike museum! (Hope you got it.)

 

[LarryOz]

And by coincidence or karma, I was able to help shortly after, when Larry needed a V1 fork to fix a broken bike he had collected for his Cruzbike museum! (Hope you got it.)

Hey Tor - I have not received anything yet - please email me the tracking - Thanks

 

[BikeGary]

I'm sorry I haven't provided any update on this, but the short version is that everything is fine!

Cruzbike wasn't entirely sure if a V20 fork would work, but they offered to send me one that I could return if it didn't. I was pretty confident it would, and it did. A nice bonus is that I can now use a wider front tire than 25mm, and I can also fit a front disc brake. I haven't got the bike entirely ready, because I need a longer brake hose to make it work, and winter is just around the corner anyway.

But yes, next season I'll be back with a better Vendetta than ever! Thanks, everybody, for helping out!

And by coincidence or karma, I was able to help shortly after, when Larry needed a V1 fork to fix a broken bike he had collected for his Cruzbike museum! (Hope you got it.)

I realize I'm late to the party here, but having cracked two steel DF's (Top tube to the Head tube) one Ti DF multiple times (Two times on the right chain stay, once on the left side, and the steel fork), I'm here to say you should inspect this bike EVERY time before you go on a ride. Once you start seeing fatigue cracks in one place, you are very likely to see others in other spots. The first one is a sign that you are nearing the end of the life cycle of your frame. Dennis Conner once said that a racing sailboat is overbuilt if it doesn't fall apart as you cross the final finish line. The same can be said for these ultra light "racing" bicycles we ride. The alternative is to over build the frames but then they wouldn't be as much run to ride.

Time to start saving for that V20c coming out this fall.

PS
Don't put a disk brake on the new front fork. Rim brakes put less stress on the frame and you are already in a gray area. Instead save your $$ for disk brakes for that V20c

 

[Mathew Fy]

I realize I'm late to the party here, but having cracked two steel DF's (Top tube to the Head tube) one Ti DF multiple times (Two times on the right chain stay, once on the left side, and the steel fork), I'm here to say you should inspect this bike EVERY time before you go on a ride. Once you start seeing fatigue cracks in one place, you are very likely to see others in other spots. The first one is a sign that you are nearing the end of the life cycle of your frame. Dennis Conner once said that a racing sailboat is overbuilt if it doesn't fall apart as you cross the final finish line. The same can be said for these ultra light "racing" bicycles we ride. The alternative is to over build the frames but then they wouldn't be as much run to ride.

Time to start saving for that V20c coming out this fall.

PS
Don't put a disk brake on the new front fork. Rim brakes put less stress on the frame and you are already in a gray area. Instead save your $$ for disk brakes for that V20

Yeah, when I was young, dumb, and cheap I drove into the garage with my Fuji on the roof. I put the forks in a vise and bent them back. No way would I risk it now! I’m lucky I didn’t have a fork failure (as happened to @ratz here.)
You’re right about the extra stress placed on the fork by disc brakes. Fortunately the forks designed for them.

 

[BikeGary]

Yeah, when I was young, dumb, and cheap I drove into the garage with my Fuji on the roof. I put the forks in a vise and bent them back. No way would I risk it now! I’m lucky I didn’t have a fork failure (as happened to @ratz here.)
You’re right about the extra stress placed on the fork by disc brakes. Fortunately the forks designed for them.

"Fortunately the forks designed for them."
But is the headtube? I have an older DF with a 1" threaded fork, and while it has disk mounts on it, the bike shop that installed it said I should NOT put a disk brake on it. So I didn't.

 

[Tor Hovland]

I realize I'm late to the party here, but having cracked two steel DF's (Top tube to the Head tube) one Ti DF multiple times (Two times on the right chain stay, once on the left side, and the steel fork), I'm here to say you should inspect this bike EVERY time before you go on a ride. Once you start seeing fatigue cracks in one place, you are very likely to see others in other spots. The first one is a sign that you are nearing the end of the life cycle of your frame. Dennis Conner once said that a racing sailboat is overbuilt if it doesn't fall apart as you cross the final finish line. The same can be said for these ultra light "racing" bicycles we ride. The alternative is to over build the frames but then they wouldn't be as much run to ride.

Time to start saving for that V20c coming out this fall.

PS
Don't put a disk brake on the new front fork. Rim brakes put less stress on the frame and you are already in a gray area. Instead save your $$ for disk brakes for that V20c

Hi, Gary!

You make some good points. Unfortunately, I've already put a disc brake on the front wheel, though.

About my cracked frame: this was on the bottom bracket clamps, which were probably not designed beefy enough in the first place, and which have had additional stress on them due to me overtightening bolts trying to get rid of some creaking (when greasing the boom was the proper solution). So while my frame is old, I wouldn't take the cracked clamps as a sign that the rest of the frame is just about to fail as well.

Anyway, I'll be careful about front wheel braking.