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I noticed this too when I started riding my V20 years ago. The road vibrations were such that I felt like my eyes couldn't focus. But at the time, I had more pressing concerns, like, "how do you even ride this thing?" I was so focused on learning the whole MBB thing and trying not to die...

I got my first Cruzbike, a V20, nine years ago. Back then there was not much here on the forum about crank arm length, other than you want to set your bike up so that your knees don't go past 90 degrees as each leg heads into the power stroke, and that shorter cranks can help make that happen...

Recumbutt is different than saddle issues with an upright bike. On an upright bike, saddle pain is often caused by spending lengths of time pedaling with a fair amount of your body weight concentrated on two small contact points--your sit bones--that don't have much padding. Add some friction...

I'm currently using 30mm tubeless tires on 21mm inner width rims on my V20c. 32mm would also fit pretty easily. Personally, I wouldn't go wider than that on a V20c because that is where you are starting to move away from the bike's intended purpose--to go fast. I weigh 130 pounds and run both...

I hate to admit this, but I am a fair weather rider. And during my years of commuting by bike, I would drive on rainy days. So when I say that the V20 (now V20c) is the best bike I've ever owned over my 38 years or riding, and that if I had to narrow my five-bike stable down to one, God...

It sounds like you will become a multiple CB owner. The most I have had at any given time is three: a V20, S30, and S40. The V is my number one keeper, but it didn't take me long to see that having both the S30 and S40 was redundant. I decided to sell the S40 in stead of the S30 because of...

Mine did the exact same thing, within the first couple months. Like you, I applied torque to spec. I took pics and sent them to Robert Holler. He recommended that I not continue using the part and sent me a replacement, free of charge. I've been fine ever since.

If you put the V20/V20c and the S40 next to each other in a Venn diagram, those circles will overlap a lot. Both are fast bikes (The V is a little faster). With enough practice, both are easy enough to ride (The S is a little easier). Both are pretty lightweight, for what they are, and climb...

Good question. I did build new wheels for the V20c, with the V20 having 36mm deep rims, and the V20c 47mm deep rims. While I suppose there is a difference in how each of those wheelsets handle the winds, I cannot say that I noticed it much. I would imagine that going from 45 to 62mm would...

The cheaper version has a one-bolt design, where the bolt doubles as both the front derailleur and chain catcher anchor bolt. That by itself is not an issue, but my experience with one-bolt designs is that you have you tighten that bolt way down (over-torquing it) to keep it from moving aside...

Agreed. There is zero chance that I would even think about taking that on a gravel ride. The main issue is the seat design (which is pretty much the same as that on a V20c). You start hitting potholes and washboards, and that seat is going to start bucking your whole body around. Suddenly...

Oh, I meant to add a short note on the handling differences while descending on a V20 vs. a V20c. In short, they both rock! Slightly longer version, the V20c feels a little more planted and stable at all speeds. It's a subtle difference--enough to notice, but not enough to put the V20's...

This is a great concern to bring up. Climbing is my preferred terrain, which means that I do a lot of descending as well. On my V20--and now V20c--I have made it into the 50+ mph range several times, with my fastest speed hitting 65 mph (that was on my V20). I don't ride with numbers in front...

I've built up Light Bicycle wheels for all five of my bikes (plus other sets for friends) and they've worked really well. On my V20c I'm using AR465 rims in the 24 hole "flyweight" build (I only weigh 130 pounds), with 30mm tires. They're fast and ride smoothly. One thing I like about Light...

Ditto for the K-Edge chain catcher (I use the "Pro" version linked below). I rarely dropped the chain, but it did occasionally happen when shifting down on rough roads. I also use oval rings, which perhaps contributed a little bit to this. Since putting the K-Edge Pro on, I have had no...

That sounds like a smart move. Fingers crossed that it works for you.

There is a small learning curve with going tubeless. It was pretty messy for me at first, but as my technique improved, the mess diminished. Now I can install a new tire or refresh sealant, which I do about every six months, with no mess at all. (I write down when I put new sealant in for...

It could also be that your shorts are simply wearing out over time and repeated washings. If you are feeling particular pressure at the spot you mentioned, then it might be worth tinkering with it for better comfort. But if not, it could just be time for new shorts.

Ditto for going tubeless. It won't lower the possibility of a front tire blowout to zero, but it should lower the chances significantly as the sealant either completely plugs small holes right away, or slows down bigger punctures, giving you time to come to a stop. I too have had one crash on...

Cool write-up. Enjoy the process (and smoking your son-in-law). I have a 30mm Schwalbe Pro One on the front of my S30, which uses the same fork as the V20. It works well and fits, but barely. I could see a 32mm not fitting.