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That rack would still work on the older Quests. Robert

It should be on the underside of the BB at the boom.

When I started on a Cruzbike (coming off of three years of near exclusive trike riding which will ruin your ability to balance a two wheeler and prior to that 3 years of high racer riding) I NEVER thought I was going to be able to go in a straight line, let alone dead start on a hill. Practice...

A great one that works for that frame is the Topeak Beam rack - but only the "A" type: http://www.topeak.com/products/racks/mtxbeamracka-type

Ahhhhhh.... NOW we catch on to Larry's secret to super aero! Pics needed.

I am very interested to hear how that front brake works once you get a chance to ride test it. Excellent diary!

A 100mm extension would help for sure. The bottle there is touch up paint - but in my experience it rarely survives the journey from the factory. Robert

NICE wheels. That is the exact way I attached my Norback to my new V20 build - bolted it right to the seat after drilling a few holes. Works great! This allows me to leave the bike specific items in that bag and swap my scarab bag on/off different bikes and save it for commute gear. Robert

That is one sweet looking Q right there.

Awesome posts. I will add here that when doing a build if you use the cable adjust at the pivot clamp you will effectively make adjusting the boom or slider impossible, as you will have locked the housing onto a part that does not move - like a suspension bridge. On completes, demos, and my...

Awesome!!!! :)

Yes please.

I really do not notice the cable housings there - but it did take a bit getting used to. I am still getting used to the bar ends and am not 100% sold on them over the double taps. The FD housing does run down the left, but the middle would work just fine as well. Robert

I love the portability of that one too. With the app interfaces and how simple it looks to program flying routes and set these up - I imagine these will be all over the place in a handful of years (scary) haha Robert

The cost to get into a frame design in CF is astronomically high. Then you are vested and if it is a bust you are screwed. Not worth it (my opinion) when you can use other materials that are easier to experiment with. Personally I would not ride a CF frame. Its one thing to do a CF stick...

The follow drone would be awesome for shooting sections of video for promotional reasons.

Here is my take on the CF issue: In my experience talking to some different carbon manufacturers, reproducing a V frame in CF will result in a heavier bike overall, that would be more fragile, and have a harsher ride. My V1 has the original welded seat on it and is around 5 lbs or so. The...

If the narrower bars are going to be used they would need to be shimmed to the proper width: http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-25-4-31-8-Handlebar-Shim/dp/B000AO5FME On the S30 and the V20 the clamp is wider than an standard stem, so it would take a total of four shims. Robert

Here is what I want - one of these: https://www.wearechampionmag.com/8-drones-follow-you-follow-me-mode

Yea!! Remember: The confidence on a bike that fast will increase rapidly and before long you will be able to achieve speeds that are well higher than you might be actually ready for. On the "wind-up" once you are at speed, learn what that cadence is and in what gear. You want to carefully...