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A great one that works for that frame is the Topeak Beam rack - but only the "A" type: http://www.topeak.com/products/racks/mtxbeamracka-type

Ahhhhhh.... NOW we catch on to Larry's secret to super aero! Pics needed.

I am very interested to hear how that front brake works once you get a chance to ride test it. Excellent diary!

A 100mm extension would help for sure. The bottle there is touch up paint - but in my experience it rarely survives the journey from the factory. Robert

NICE wheels. That is the exact way I attached my Norback to my new V20 build - bolted it right to the seat after drilling a few holes. Works great! This allows me to leave the bike specific items in that bag and swap my scarab bag on/off different bikes and save it for commute gear. Robert

That is one sweet looking Q right there.

Awesome posts. I will add here that when doing a build if you use the cable adjust at the pivot clamp you will effectively make adjusting the boom or slider impossible, as you will have locked the housing onto a part that does not move - like a suspension bridge. On completes, demos, and my...

Awesome!!!! :)

Yes please.

I really do not notice the cable housings there - but it did take a bit getting used to. I am still getting used to the bar ends and am not 100% sold on them over the double taps. The FD housing does run down the left, but the middle would work just fine as well. Robert

I love the portability of that one too. With the app interfaces and how simple it looks to program flying routes and set these up - I imagine these will be all over the place in a handful of years (scary) haha Robert

The cost to get into a frame design in CF is astronomically high. Then you are vested and if it is a bust you are screwed. Not worth it (my opinion) when you can use other materials that are easier to experiment with. Personally I would not ride a CF frame. Its one thing to do a CF stick...

The follow drone would be awesome for shooting sections of video for promotional reasons.

Here is my take on the CF issue: In my experience talking to some different carbon manufacturers, reproducing a V frame in CF will result in a heavier bike overall, that would be more fragile, and have a harsher ride. My V1 has the original welded seat on it and is around 5 lbs or so. The...

If the narrower bars are going to be used they would need to be shimmed to the proper width: http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-25-4-31-8-Handlebar-Shim/dp/B000AO5FME On the S30 and the V20 the clamp is wider than an standard stem, so it would take a total of four shims. Robert

Here is what I want - one of these: https://www.wearechampionmag.com/8-drones-follow-you-follow-me-mode

Yea!! Remember: The confidence on a bike that fast will increase rapidly and before long you will be able to achieve speeds that are well higher than you might be actually ready for. On the "wind-up" once you are at speed, learn what that cadence is and in what gear. You want to carefully...

The star nut needs to be pushed further down into the fork. I just got it in with a longer bolt (tapping on the head and keeping the nut as straight as possible) until the blade would clear, and then once the steerer was cut I used the setting tool to get it set the proper depth from the newly...

The OLD V2K frame kit in the past did not include the fork. The package as it is now on the website includes the fork, frame, seat, front end, handlebars, hardware - just add wheels and components. They will be ALL gone very soon though, and there will not be any more of them.

I can definitely say that this is not the case and if it was somewhere it wasn't posted by a Cruzbike employee for sure. The challenges of the BB are ones that we are working on. As always - stay tuned as always good things are coming from Cruzbike! :-) Robert