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Idler wheel behind the crankset should do it just fine. That's the optimum place when belts are used on mountain bikes. There are even sprung ones for full suspension. Like on the Zerode mountain bikes. https://zerodebikes.com/blog/zerode-carbon-drive Since chain guides are already standard...

If you splicing on a rear triangle, make sure your axle is wide enough to extend through both dropouts. Otherwise you would be applying to much force to just the skewer, and it distort or break.

That is awesome!

Technically, it is only the bb-shell and lower boom tube that needs replacing. The rest of the front triangle is likely fine. I think that part is still identical on the T50, but may not be available separately.

If you trim off the folded ends with the screw holes, you could join the upper and lower parts with a short piano hinge. That would not only be strong, but articulate easily for adjustment.

The Magic has a higher crank to seat. So even though the crank is lower to the wheel, the seat is much lower to the wheel. So you are correct in aero assessment, but it is also for greater efficiency that the crank is relatively higher. It gives the rider more power.

Pretty sure they all used 165's. Do not go shorter, unless you like wheel-flop! You could get away with a longer shock if you just it give it a bit more sag when you set it up, to keep your geometry similar.

Yeah. That would require a 28.6 seat post diameter for the stem to clamp to. But the frame needs a 31.4. But bit of aluminum tubing replacing the post, and a shim to fit the 28.6 tube in the frame, might work pretty well.

An interesting challenge. What about mounting an adjustable stem to the straight tube? Then remove the stem faceplate and you have a nice set of four bolt holes where you can bolt it to your seat back. Is the seat post a compatible diameter for a stem?

Cool! :) You might want to move your seat backwards, and thus down as well. Still rides with plenty of traction. You can raise your bottom bracket up a lot higher that way.

Have you tried rotating the post 180 degrees. That would set the clamp further away from the seat back.

If you are replacing the top on a T50, you might as well replace the bottom as well. Go with sealed bearings for top and bottom that way.

I currently have bullhorns on mine too. It gives a very good "on the hoods" hand position. It is how I always rode my upright, so actually quite comfortable. The ergonomics are pretty great!

The T50 is really a fun tinker-machine. I have two! :)

I would recommend moving the seat back a little if you can. Even if it's by drilling more holes in the base plate. Then you can get your cranks up a bit higher. You will probably not effect traction much, if at all.

Nice. That is a very clean solution! :) Using the existing steerer-clamp is a great idea, as it already has the great through-bushing, that is very solid. If I ever redo mine, I will go with the internal slider instead of the external 1.5 inch tube I chose. It required a bit thinner tube-wall...

Yes! If it is the same diameter, and bolts securely into the other part, you have a great replacement! :)

Pretty sure it was a Control Tech stoker stem for a tandem. Like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Controltech-Tandem-Adjustable-Stoker-Bike-Stem-25-4-29-8-190-230mm-215-255mm-/202077132483?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&&var=502072683879&varId=502072683879 Or this...

Sure will Mark. But might wait a bit to make sure I survive the pandemic. :)

I'm considering this seat. I like that it has a low folded edge for rigidity, and less pronounced stiffeners along the bottom. I'm guessing it will mount better. Plus colors! :)...