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You have no heal-strike issues on an MBB. You can use any crank arm length you want! :)

You could use a tether to pull against. ;)

The rear changes angle independently of the base. It is basically "hinged". The Thor seat is rigid, and so tilting it more upright effects the base as well. It may also be that angling the Thor as high as you are after might make the upper part overly steep. Those seats have a shallower angle in...

The aluminum seat you have already is far more adjustable in that regard. Mainly because the back can tilt independent of the bottom.

My quality of life has improved 600% since dropping front mechs some years ago! ;)

So I was asking because Sensah brifters are now available separately in either Shimano or SRAM flavor. They have gotten fairly favorable reviews. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YKQD4DF?ref_=pe_623860_70668690_dpLink Since I already have a Shimano mountain derailleur, the Shimano flavor made more...

Thanks. Sounds like it'll work well enough. I currently run MTB shifter and flat bar brakes, but might consider road brifters in the future.

So I know there are adapters, like Jtek Shiftmate, to go between road and mountain gear. Is anyone here using one?

I think he just needs the front of a Cruzbike! :)

I got this. Works just fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G92GKDV/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They come in many sizes.

I would think it is the lower derailleur pulley. When it is pulled forward by the chain being on the larger cogs, you have less chain wrapping around it. The noise might just be jockey wheel teeth hitting the chain pins at a different angle.

I think most manufacturers use 2 bolts for the seat pan. Put wide washers top and bottom. The aluminum Cruzbike seat needs the extra bolts because it is 2 parts. Using only two bolts would make for a very floppy seat because of the flexible bolting in the middle. Fiber seats are a single solid...

I think they have always made the bent tube for smaller riders. Just like you can get one today. This is just the V1 version of it. Notice there is no way that could be bent after the mounting bracket was welded on.

I would highly recommend some torque arms if you can fit them to the frame. Grin tech makes versions that bolt to rack eyelets. https://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/torque-arms.html

If you reverse the seat mount (rotate it 180) then the screw slots allow for a much more rearward and lower seat position. If you set the seat in the absolute most rearward position when you have done that (front screw holes, slid all the way back), it is a very similar base-angle to the Q...

These are made by former Chinese SRAM OEM peeps. They a double-tap, 11 speed. The weird thing is they use SRAM MTB 10 speed cable pull ratio. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SENSAH-EMPIRE-2x11-Speed-Road-Bike-Groupset-Derailleur-Shifters-Mini-Set-/202689087189?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 That...

Check out these mid-sole cleat shoes. They are optimized for Speedplays, but work with Look and SPD as well. https://lintaman.com/store/shop/minimal-cycling-shoe-version-2-0/

A job well done! :) Great to see it all worked well.

You may be able to get away with reversing the seat mounting base 180, if your OK with a bit more nose-up. That moves the seat back and lower.

I got a NOS green T50 frame that has not been built, and am thinking of making a tall front, kind of like a Q45. So it would be a longer reach for the two tubes, but about what you have, so I'm happy! :)