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Curious to see such a beast. :)

My old Sofrider has the shock-fork. I would think that is introducing the most flex to the system. More than the tubing or joints I'm sure! But is quite ridable, and not something I even notice.

How do these two boom approaches compare for stiffness? Is there a noticeable difference? I like the Q45 boom, but wonder if it's really any stiffer? The clamps at the pivot points are actually smaller than those on the T50. Anyone have these two bikes?

Try reversing the plate on the bottom of the seat. That may allow greater rearward adjustment.

The trick is get the wider range 11 speed freewheeel, like 11-40/42, and then get a bigger chain ring. That way you can have a much higher gear while maintaining a low enough gear with your larger chain ring.

You can vary this some degree with crank-arm length as well. If you use longer cranks, you can have the bottom bracket that much closer to you, and therefor up higher. Shorter cranks require a longer boom to have the same reach, but also often work better for ergonomics and comfort.

At the low-end, the T50 should go to the new front end like the Q45.

Just lower the stem down a bit (loosen the clamp, slide it downward a couple inches, tighten the clamp). Don't cut.

Should also point out that Lucia and Michael rode Q45s in Japan and didn't have any issues with it being to tall. It's stated at 25 inches, and then will be a bit lower with suspension sag. The Q45 is probably adjustable for a wider range of seat angles as well. Think of it as a Jeep.

It was a bigger box than usual! ;)

If your boom is even a few millimeters to short, you'll wobble like that. Extend it 3-5 mm, and the wobble will likely go away. "Timing off" is how I characterize that as well. The pedal is at full reach slightly before the power stroke is done, so the extra bit of power stroke then levers the...

For the drive wheel. All the current bikes, except the T50, have closed dropouts, but still use QR hubs. It's just the nature of how the front-end is put together. So you have to remove the skewer, put the wheel in, and then thread in the skewer. Because the dropouts are closed, you cannot...

It is for a braze-on type FD. It's the same front end as the V and S, and so has the same features, with the difference of the steerer being much longer.

My most common remark from adults is, "I thought you were doing a wheelie!"

The dropouts on the high end bikes may not have a large enough hole for the axle, and it surely won't have the flats for anti-twist washers. If there is a big enough axle hole, you could experiment with hose-clamp mounted torque arms. Like these examples. You would also need to make sure you...

If you got any of the emails, the links to the others should be at the bottom.

The new Q45 will probably handle you better. It actually has a slightly more open seating because of the frame design not angling up to the steering tube so sharply. The front end is the "proper" one now for best power transfer and simplicity. Also, having a good suspension is going to make it...

I already have a pretty good idea for a way to drop the seat about 2 inches, it looks like. This is a very tempting bike, especially if it can also handle 700c wheels. Ultimately, I want this front end on a T50 frame! :)

I get a lot more power on any bike pulling on the handlebars! I also get a lot more power anytime that I am pulling with my arms directly against pushing with my legs. It's basic human mechanics. What's going on here is the same thing you do playing tug-o-war. Get as horizontal as possible...

Good things come to those who wait! There may be a Q45 in your future. :)