Actually, Ratz’s video shows a counter-clockwise wrap on the right. Notice the tape ascends upward as it goes from right to left on the face of the bar. This is the opposite of what is recommended for diamond frame road bikes, reflecting the difference in stress you put on the wrap with recumbents.
As I understand it, you want to tighten the wrap as you put stress on it to stabilize it while riding. On a CB I tend to pull on the handlebar when applying lots of power, and this naturally causes a slight twist of the wrap inward to the center. Hence on the right side I will be twisting the tape in the grip area in a counter clockwise direction. This will tighten a wrap that is wound counter clockwise. The forces tend to be opposite in direction when riding a df road bikes in the drops, so they wrap in the opposite direction.
This is not a complete solution, since I apparently also apply a small amount of downward pull on the grip area and that eventually results in the tape coming loose even when properly wound. So you need to provide better attachment of the tape to the bar. As I noted, the friction tape helps for me, and I’ve sometimes applied two layers of wrap in the grip area with electrical tape added to stabilize the bottom layer. That gives me a softer larger grip and seems to stabilize the wrap in general. Basically more tape is better overall.
Finally, I expect we need to wrap the handlebar tape as tightly as it can tolerate so to reduce it stretching and loosening as we ride. I spend almost all of my time gripping the handlebars in that region and applying stresses to the tape continuously. On a df road bike, you have myriad hand positions and many riders do not spend much time with their hands in the drop position. The wear and tear on the tape is likely less. We should probably check what tape wrapping guidance is given for gravel bikes with dirt-drop handlebars, since I understand those bikes are meant to be ridden mainly in the drops. I suspect it is the same as for road bikes.