Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Would it be possible to use heat on the outside tube first, and then pour icy cold water on the inside? This might expand the outside tube enough and shrink the inside tube enough to break it loose.
Cracked Handlebar Screw Section: Help Needed
- Thread starter Bentsoup
- Start date
I have a heat gun, but I'm worried about bubbling up the paint if it gets too hot. I'm going to try again tonight to soak it in some more lubricant and try it again tomorrow. If that doesn't work my last bet might be to heat it up and see what happens.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Lemme guess, a 5lb plate? Hahaha
Velocivixen
Well-Known Member
I’m curious as to whether this is a common issue with the boom/slider on this model? If there are several posts asking for insight, it must be a “thing”.
It was a rubber rowing bar attachment.
And I think this story is finally coming to an end. I brought it all to the welder this morning. He said he could repair it, but the piece that broke is so small that he's concerned the weld won't hold properly and it'll break again. That's a pretty big risk when you're flying down the road on a bike. I'll probably just sell the campagnolo wheels and donate the bike to a museum, or do you think someone would buy it as a project?
They'd likely have to spend some time reinforcing the slider head, or have something fabricated. The welder said maybe $600-$700 for something like that. I still think I'd rather see it in a museum.
Last edited:
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
It would look great in a museum. Hard to say what I would do to make sure it would hold if I were in your shoes.
In those shoes, I would have done the same haha.It was a rubber rowing bar attachment.
The welder mentioned cold metal transfer as an option but I'm not familiar with that at all, except that it's a much lower heat generation than tig.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Some of the epoxies available now are incredibly good. I assemble my own golf clubs and for friends when they need a new one. I use a 2-part metal epoxy when installing titanium or carbon steel golf heads on either graphite or steel shafts. I have began to expect that once I put them on they ain't ever coming apart. Like carpenters say "Measure twice and cut once", I do mockups several times with the head, grip and shaft for the proper swing weight 5-10 times because they are so expensive, and those things are very difficult to remove once bonded.
There was a crack on my 2018 V20 on the top flat part of the small baseplate where the head rest bars insert into the frame. It was probably from my head pushing down on the bars so much that the baseplate disconnected from top flat part. I cleaned it, very lightly sanded it with a cutoff disc on a Dremel tool and then mixed up a few drops and applied it with a toothpick to bond them back together about a year or so ago. It's still holding, but it is in a location that even if it fails it won't result in a crash.
There was a crack on my 2018 V20 on the top flat part of the small baseplate where the head rest bars insert into the frame. It was probably from my head pushing down on the bars so much that the baseplate disconnected from top flat part. I cleaned it, very lightly sanded it with a cutoff disc on a Dremel tool and then mixed up a few drops and applied it with a toothpick to bond them back together about a year or so ago. It's still holding, but it is in a location that even if it fails it won't result in a crash.
From what I read, "cold welding" is often confused with "cold metal transfer". Using something like epoxy would be cold welding, while cold metal transfer is still welding, like tig, just at something like 10% of the temperature. I'm interested to see if anyone else has any knowledge of it. It's pretty much the last option, if at all.
cruzKurt
Guru
I would be happy to do a 3D CAD piece that would fit over the end of the slider and replace that entire section. you could cut off the end upstream of that weld and fit the new piece on. That seems like a good permanent and safe solution. I assume it is a standard handlebar fit on the handlebar end, would need the diameter of the slider (outside diameter) to start. I can take measurements off my v20 slider to get the rest.
Kurt, you read my mind! I posted this exact possible solution on the cruzbike Facebook this morning! Something like this?!
Doug Burton
Zen MBB Master
Fun Factoid: the numbers in the model name correspond to the seat back angle nowadays. V20, S30, S40, Q45, T50...
The S30 was also version 3.0 of the Silvio, (an upgrade to the Silvio 2.1) so that one might be a tiny bit off...
The S30 was also version 3.0 of the Silvio, (an upgrade to the Silvio 2.1) so that one might be a tiny bit off...
Velocivixen
Well-Known Member
Do the numbers represent the maximum recline?
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
The "standard recline" The Q-series and T-series can be adjusted lower by those so inclined to be really reclined.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
With the unsuspended front fork, the angle was 33 degrees, IIRC.
