Crash due to flat tire

jond

Zen MBB Master
Bombing down a hill at close to a 100 klm / hr is trusting your tyres.

Sorry to hear of your crash Kenneth. The trauma can be ongoing.

If you’re riding city streets tubeless makes sense or regular deflation and squeeze check inspect your tyres. Or tannus tyres.

Get back on the horse. ASAP.

Any front tyre flat is a major problem excepting a trike .I would much rather lol fall from the vendetta than my df. Lot lot safer.

Sure it’s easier to see your wheels from a df. But then you’re always looking at the ground anyway in that oh so uncomfortable position.
 

jond

Zen MBB Master
I wondered after my accident if it went flat very quickly or if it was just hard to notice given the style of bike, which is now what feel is most likely.

I guess you would be able to find out from the tube. But the tyre had wire so most likely slow.

Regular inspection of your tyres prevents a lot of issues though not all.

I pull out glass and wire regularly. Do it weekly with the tyre pressure check.

I’d straighten the ring as slim describes but as they are cheapish I’d order a replacement makes you feel good.

Any other damage to bike??. Clear nail polish for carbon fibre seat brifter sealing .

Take care.
 

Kenneth

Well-Known Member
Bombing down a hill at close to a 100 klm / hr is trusting your tyres.

Sorry to hear of your crash Kenneth. The trauma can be ongoing.

If you’re riding city streets tubeless makes sense or regular deflation and squeeze check inspect your tyres. Or tannus tyres.

Get back on the horse. ASAP.

Any front tyre flat is a major problem excepting a trike .I would much rather lol fall from the vendetta than my df. Lot lot safer.

Sure it’s easier to see your wheels from a df. But then you’re always looking at the ground anyway in that oh so uncomfortable position.

I replaced the tube,changed out the 50 for a old 48 I had on hand and went back out the next morning. Thankful it wasn't my left foot that got hurt as it is always the one I unclip first when coming to a stop. Right now I have to unclip very carefully with my right due the twisting motionrequired
 

BikeGary

Well-Known Member
I'll chime in,
Yesterday morning I was riding to work and had a front flat tire on my S30. The tire (28mm continential) was low before I left so I pumped it up before leaving. I didn't think it was anything special as I haven't ridden that bike in 2 months, but it was. I got 1.4 miles into the ride, going down a short steep hill pumping like mad to crest the hill on the other side and it went totally flat and unstable. The wobble was major and then I was sliding on my left side (est from 25mph to 0 in 20 ft or so) the front wheel grabbed on the pave as I slowed down and flipped over to the right. My left hand caught between the pave and my brake levers and give me a deep cut in the smallest finger. I remember pulling it out of the pinch of road and brake handle to save it from further damage. The rest of my injuries are road rash up my left side in random spots and a sprained ankle which I have no idea how it happened, except that maybe it was the force ripping my foot out of the pedal cleat. (SPD's) I was able to walk home dripping ooze slightly. Trip to the doc in a box, for bandages and a scrubbing...

The only thing weird was before the crash I noticed my flag had a weird wobble that I could see in the shadow. I am not sure if it was because the tire was going soft earlier (good chance of this) or the light I've got on the pole causing an oscillation by it's location on the pole. I haven't had light behind me with a shadow like this since I put the flag on. So normally I can't see the flag at all.

It was pretty scary as the bike went from full speed to wobble to totally out of control in a flash. Looking back on it, I suspect had I been on my DF bike I could have had a header, but I have had front tires go flat without any of those issues on my DF unless I was in the middle of a turn. Which has happened and I slid into a curb and that tossed me ass over teakettle onto my back.

I suspect that the front tire flipped because I had to let go of the handlebar. There is really no choice here, the skin on my fingers isn't going to survive with basic bicycle gloves that kind of slide. I have kevlar extraction gloves which I can wear in the colder months, but at 80F they are way too hot to wear now.

I haven't looked at the bike closely but at first glance it seemed to have survived except for some scrapes on the left crank, and on my headlight (mounted on the steerer tube), the ends of both brake handles and the top of both brake handles. The chain also came off the front sprocket as well. I have no idea how that happened either. I assume that the brakes got the rash treatment first as I went down, and then as it flipped back at me.

Anyway at the moment of the crash I was like, that's it, I've had it! But now I'm not so sure. I have had that wobble feel before riding this bike, but never like this. And I have let it rip up to 37mph which is about as fast as I feel comfortable riding anything, my DF included.

On my experience level, I have thousands of miles on my DF, and maybe 1K on the S30 over the last calendar year. (Aug to Aug) I did hours and hours of slow speed drills in a parking lot before heading off on the road, and then first shorter then slightly longer then bike trails, then more shorter trips. My commute is 46 miles round trip so just by riding that I get a lot of miles in. But I still am not getting the full hill climbing power that I expect and I usually limit my descent speed to 35mpy or less unless there is a clear run out that I know is free of potholes etc. But mostly I ride 18mph on the flats, and way less up the hills.

Judging from the video of the V20 crash from a front tire flat this is not uncommon. I had been considering going to a 25mm tire but now... not so much. I don't think there is clearance for a 32mm which is what I have on my DF.

Anyway I'm sore today, my ankle is double the size of the other one, but I suspect in a week or so all that will be left are some scabs and that deep cut still healing on my finger.
 

bladderhead

Zen MBB Master
BikeGary said:
from 25mph to 0 in 20 ft or so
Like what I did. At exactly the moment it happened I was looking at my speedo and it said 27. I have gone about 5k on my Silvio, at about the same speed as you. I have done more miles on my Grasshopper, and a lot more on various DF years ago. All of which include a lot of commuting, which is the best way to learn to handle a bike. The prospect of holes in the road scares me more than traffic. As does the prospect of skidding in a turn. At least some drivers are paying attention, and most of them do not want to run you over. Bad road surface does not care and never gets out of the way. It is horrible getting your hands and arms and hips flayed and pebbledashed, but at 40mph the DF faceplant manoeuvre is horribler.
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
Faceplant on a DF usually is a trip to the dentist. Not to mention the concussion. It's weird. On the DF 52 kph doesn't seem so fast as 52 on the Vendetta however I know for sure I would prefer to be on the Vendetta if anything were to go wrong. The bars and edge of the seat on the vendetta take the hit. The Vendetta as it's aluminium is more tolerant to abuse. A carbon frame would just get stress fractures. Hope the injuries heal quickly. If you ever feel the front wheel on the vendetta go light sit up and slow down.
 

BikeGary

Well-Known Member
The weird thing has been that feeling that the front is unstable. It took me many months of drills before I would let the bike open up fully on a downhill. If I start to pedal after coasting before I slow down to 25mph it's bad. My DF feels more like a rock the faster it goes.
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
Sealant will stop small leaks and slow the big ones down to allow a rider to slow down a bit. Orange Endurance works reasonably well even inside butyl tubes (that have removable cores). I know that the better Schwalbe tubes have removable valve cores as do the latex tubes that typically use. I do know that most of my flats using latex tubes and sealants have been slow and hissy affairs. Worth a try......??
 

BikeGary

Well-Known Member
The 50 T chairing should be recoverable with a bit of careful filing.
Remember that the 11 T rear cassette only has 5 tooth contact with the chain, so not having all 50 Teeth perfect (25 teeth contact!) will not lead to the chain jumping teeth.
Careful bending the AL chaining. IMO it's worth replacing if you are home. AL fails catestrophicly and it will be under load when it happens. Yes out on the trail/road I would bend it to get home, but then replace it.

BTW my chain ring looks almost identical after my fall.
 

Robert Holler

Administrator
Staff member
All -

Yikes. I don't like reading about wrecks. Accidents happen. Glad people are recovering! That said -

Please do not re-bend chainrings and stuff to "fix" them. You can never get it exactly straight again and risk the chain dropping at a most inopportune time. Replace any and all broken or bent parts with new or VERY good used ones if you must. Replace bent up or cracked looking frames after a wreck. Check for head tube stress cracks after hitting big potholes. Wheels after a fall or wreck need to be looked at by someone who knows how to build wheels - to look for cracks at the nipple holes, slight widening of the rim at the lip, or other issues with loose spokes or damaged spoke holes on the flange. If it's carbon (anything important to keeping you on the road like wheels/bars/cranks/frames) and you take a hit or a fall - that's straight to the trash in my opinion due to stress fractures - that unless you have 200k in equipment to check it, - you may never see the damage until it fails on you in spectacular fashion. DIY fixes for todays light components and equipment isn't worth the risk. Thats the price of playing the game. (my opinion)

I hit a 4" deep pothole on my V going 35 MPH sending the the front and rear airborne. Landed and recovered somehow - lost my glasses that flew off my face, clanged my teeth together so hard they were bleeding and cracked a crown, and completely blew up my American Classic deep profile rim wrecking 3-4 spokes. The guy at Bike Gallery I handed my wheel to when I needed a replacement for the rest of the ride asked me how I was still alive. I'm not sure. If I had been on a DF and hit that same hole I would not be typing this. At the end of the ride - a full diagnosis revealed the head tube at the frame was showing cracks. That frame now hangs on the wall for all eternity as the frame that took the hardest hit I have ever taken.

Flat tires - check tires before every ride. Before a huge downhill after a long climb stop and do a full check of your rubber and pressure. And rims. And shifting. And brakes. If the tube has more than one "patch" on it it should be in the trash - or at most in your bag as strictly a spare. If you have a patched up tube on your wheel - bombing down hills or running high speed is tempting the flat fairy - just asking for a flat. Make sure you have the right tube for the tire you run.

I watched a guy blow a tire on a downhill in front of me because his pad was not adjusted right and was just barely catching the sidewall of his tire. Boom. Watched a guy on a DF - braking hard on a twisty downhill - suddenly have his wheel disentigrate and collapse on him as the sidewall failed because it was paper thin from wear. Luckily he knew how to take the fall.

Check headset for play. Check rim thickness at the braking surface if you don't run disk brakes. If you run disk brakes check your pads. Check all these things twice. An issue? limp down the hill or bail on it. All good? Then nail the hill.

Run GOOD tires, especially if speed and performance are in the mix. Run good tires if you just go get groceries. If you like to go fast and corner hard, run tires that are known to perform well in that situation. Some tires are awesome for going fast while in a straight line but are CRAP for cornering. Some are great if it is dry...but if it gets wet you might as well be on ice skate blades. Some rim and tire combinations have a hanky fit. Too tight = bad. Too loose = bad. Might need to try a different combo. Some clinchers don't seat well in the bead of some wheels. Some rims have crappy beads - toss those in the trash and get rims with NICE good beads and then get tires that fit them well with their good beads.

Some tires are more durable the others. If you are running less expensive tires that are not known to be really reliable - ride within the limits of the tire. Ride to the bike shop for new tires. Some tires within the same brands are good while others are not so. just because its a "Conti" (or any other brand) doesn't mean its a good tire.

Flats can happen at any time but you can minimize the risk with "pre flight" due diligence. Anticipate it will happen though. If something feels "off" stop immediately and diagnose. Can't find the issue? Don't tempt fate by ignoring it.



Ride safe all!
 
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jond

Zen MBB Master
On a df you would probably see a 4 inch deep pothole. And be able to avoid it.

Despite being lower and having a sharper angle to view the road imperfections I find the vendetta better for avoiding tank trap potholes.

My head is in a much better heads up position virtually vertical instead of df down.
Df down over time is so taxing as to miss upcoming holes as you look at tar 5 m from your front wheel.

Initially I rode with my head leaning too far back on the vendetta until I let out the headrest a cm or so. Ahhh magic sauce.
 

Gary123

Zen MBB Master
Maybe but I've never had a problem avoiding potholes on df. Vendetta constantly on the watch after flatting and crashing but that's just me.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
This was on my DF bike not the v20

Went out with the intent of stealing a 24 mile KOM tonight and got a punctured front tire about 4 miles into the segment. Hissing and sealant flying everywhere I was a little pissed off because I was feel great tonight so I just kept on rolling watching the sealant spray out with each rotation. I know as the pressure drops below 50psi the sealant will start doing it's thing but it didn't seem to slow down for a solid 30 seconds and even then it was still lightly misting for another 2 mins. I run ENVE AR rims which are 25mm internal width and use 28mm tires so there is a ton of air that I can lose before I lose tire stability. There'a also zero chance of the tire rolling off the rim because these are the hardest wheels to break the bead after it has been set. It was too dark to see how much my tire was squishing after it finally sealed but I ran over a few bot dots and it felt ok so I kept pushing for my KOM. Just got home and I have 30psi in the front tire which is enough for strait line riding but a little on the low side for moderate cornering, light cornering is just fine. I wouldn't have gotten away without stopping if I had standard narrow rims or smaller tires because they just would offer the same stability after the tire dropped to 30 psi. At the very least if this had happened on the Cruzbike there would have been zero chance of my crashing thanks to being tubeless on proper tubeless rims with a strong bead lock channel.
 

Balor

Zen MBB Master
Pretty much the same happened with my set of tubeless tires, though in my case about 30 psi in front tire (a bit less actually) given load of 90 kg is not quite adequate even given 23mm inner width rim, I bottomed out.
You can save yourself a ton of money by simply getting a set of MTB trail tubeless rims (got one for 100$, cheap hubs though) and using wheel covers.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Pretty much the same happened with my set of tubeless tires, though in my case about 30 psi in front tire (a bit less actually) given load of 90 kg is not quite adequate even given 23mm inner width rim, I bottomed out.
You can save yourself a ton of money by simply getting a set of MTB trail tubeless rims (got one for 100$, cheap hubs though) and using wheel covers.

yup standard XC mtb rims are great for road tubeless if you don't care for much depth in the rim for aerodynamics.
 
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