Electric 2021 Q45

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@bret
Thanks for the heads up on the Grin discount. I haven’t bought anything yet. Since we’ve been back in the Phoenix flatland I had cooled off on electrifying, but now have redecided to go ahead. It’s hard to admit that I need a little help to do the rides I want to do. The motor will open up new possibilities.

I’m planning to use a Hailong type battery mounted to the under seat mounts, with possibly a third mounting point at the shock mount bracket. I want to keep the battery on the suspended frame, not on the swing arm. I agree with your idea of simply removing the battery mount when I need to fold the swing arm. That happens a few times a summer when we tow the Jeep behind the motorhome. Normally I carry the bike on a spare tire mounted rack. I’m thinking some version of the Baserunner controller.

Otherwise I hope to do the same as you for brakes, cadence sensor, and throttle.

I need to get moving to take advantage of the discount.
 

bret

Well-Known Member
I need to get moving to take advantage of the discount.

The Satiator charger is also discounted. It can charge a variety of batteries, and it can also be set to stop automatically at 80% charge which commonly extends battery life by 3x. Yes, that's 3 times as much use.

Strategies are:
  1. Select a battery which permits everyday use within 20% of charged capacity. Everyday riding doesn't use more than 20% of the 'charged capacity' you decide on, and charge it back every day.
  2. Define 'charged capacity' as 80% of the maximum that battery can hold.
Profit from replacing the battery 3x less - you will save, and you have the excess if you need it for the less common long rides. Batteries are expensive - as much as the motor itself or more.

You can't easily get this facility in any other battery charger I've come across, and the increase in battery life will pay for it.

The battery case will have some impact on the bracket angles, so think about whether you can define an 'everyday distance' and a 'long ride distance' to work out these thresholds and select a battery size that meets or exceeds them. Also if you order the battery from them, Grin will solder the connectors and mount the Baserunner for you. And they are picky, so their batteries are good.

I'm getting about 5.5 Watt-hours per kilometre, but haven't put in long distances yet or ridden in a month. But it's noticeably better than my Tern S8i with a fast-wind motor (that has 20" wheels so it needs the fast-wind). I'm using a 48V 17.5 Ah battery in a Hailong case.

On my battery, the only mechanical connection to the cradle is two sets of plastic claws on one end. The weight of the battery will break those on the first hard bump when the battery is mounted upside-down. The solution is to make sure you can put one or two velcro straps around the battery and it's mount which can easily hold the weight. The batteries I bought come with this even though they are intended to be mounted rightside-up. It's completely effective - just have in mind to arrange for it in your battery bracket design (smooth edges where the strap crosses the metal).

I don't use dedicated lights. I have AAA powered add-ons for my rear light, and Lumintop B01 headlights which strap on. The B01 is a flashlight with a reflector that cuts off so I don't blind traffic - and it's a flashlight I pop out of the carrier and take with me. It doesn't get stolen, and I have light. It uses standard L-Ion 18650 or 21700 cells, has the charging circuitry built in (standard USB cable), and is robust.

When my batteries die, I don't throw away the whole light - I just replace the battery. NiMH batteries instead of alkaline for the AAA.
 

bret

Well-Known Member
Rode today for the first time in 3 months (since my back went off). I spent some time reclining the stock seat more, and I'll do some more tomorrow as well as put my air shock in (A5RR1).

Low centre of gravity, smooth handling, and so nice to look at the sky instead of the pavement (yes, I still watch for traffic).
 

bret

Well-Known Member
I replaced the front wheel with a 26" rim and a 50-559 tire (2.0"x26") Schwalbe GT365. The 2.0"x26" tire does indeed fit the fork and the chainstay - but the chainstay clearance is tighter, and a wider tire may not work.

I also replaced the stock shock with an A5-RR air shock. It's mounted 'upside down' from the only photo I can find of one, but I considered the clearance to the top air valve and at it's minimum it's about 1/4" - and it moves away from the bracket as the suspension actuates. I took a long ride and certainly hit some bumps - you can see the o-ring excursion. There is no evidence of contact between the valve and the bracket.
A5-RR_top-valve.jpg
 

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bret

Well-Known Member
Side view in store front window with solar reflective film (ad hoc mirror).
26" wheels & 2.0" tires front and rear, Grin motor on rear hub, battery on bracket under swingarm.

I'm debating about the battery bracket still. I left it with Quantum along with pictures of @Tortue 's early bracket, and Aldo changed the design - he prefers this. I'm not certain I wouldn't prefer the bracket under the seat on the water bottle bosses, but that puts it above the shock. Still thinking, and riding.
 

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